Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #16 – December 09, 2011, 10:38:26 PM Quote from: TOM Renzo;375137The difference in fittings is no big deal. A flaring tool a hand full of fittings and a few feet of copper ferus line and presto it fits. Remember the smaller the masters bore the easier or less pressure you need to apply the brakes.I always thought that the lines had to be steel and that copper would split due to the pressure? Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #18 – December 10, 2011, 04:14:41 PM I'm sold Ive replaced the rear brake line three times due to rot on the plow truck. Next time its Copper ferrous for me Thanks Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #19 – December 10, 2011, 05:53:57 PM The svo/lincoln mc is the same as the 80's crown vic. In 87 the mc swapped to plastic resivor and two lines for non-tc. The 83-86 cars used a dual ressivoir like the 80's crown vic and svo. Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #20 – December 11, 2011, 01:43:30 PM I just used some of that nickel-copper stuff on my Dakota, after blowing the rear brake line out when trying to stop to avoid hitting a dump truck that pulled out of a side road while i was approaching at ~60MPH and towing a trailer with an old Honda ATV on it. I hate doing brake lines, so whenever I do one I only want to do it once, and that copper/nickel line is the cat's ass. It costs twice as much as steel line, but since steel line is cheap anyway, even double the price is still cheap. And besides, brakes are kind of important :hick:For the record, I missed the dump truck, and I have newfound respect for the strength of ratchet straps. How that ATV didn't break them and come flying into the arse of my truck is beyond me... Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #21 – January 02, 2012, 09:06:13 PM some might disagree with me but i finally did on my 88 turbo coupe.use a master cly off a crown vic with a check valve on it.make sure that the rear line out of the master goes to the rear brakes and the front lines to the front brakes.and it had a adj prop valve on it but i doesn't need one if you have the check valve on your master cly.it took me four months to finally figure this out.but my brakes work just fine now. Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #23 – January 03, 2012, 07:07:35 AM I am going to guess on the vacuum line going to the booster. Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #25 – January 03, 2012, 02:21:33 PM Ok so let me get this straight in my 88tc I have stock disk's with a stang booster and an svo master. The pedal feel is very hard and it takes quite a bit of leg power to stop and the brakes will not lock up. Do I need a smaller master? Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #26 – January 03, 2012, 10:48:34 PM A smaller bore will give you a lighter pedal, I'm using a 93 cobra master and a 87 gt booster with a gutted tc prop and wilwood adjustable prop with stock T.C brakes. I have a very firm pedal. When I do the Cobra brakes I might need to upgrade to the cobra booster. Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #27 – January 04, 2012, 10:27:42 PM PSI = pounds per square inch. A smaller diameter piston in the MC will give you a higher pressure with less effort but it moves less fluid which is fine if you don't need to move a lot of fluid.On the 83 I had the SVO MC, stock booster, SVO 73mm front calipers on the 11" rotors, the Stainless Steel Disc Brake kit for the Fox Mustang on the back, gutted stock proportion valve, and a Wilwood inline proportioning valve. The brakes SUCKED bad. The pedal effort was very high and the car did not stop for shiznit. The whole system was completely mismatched. A larger booster would have helped (1993 Mustang Cobra unit) or a smaller bore MC (85 Lincoln Towncar) would have helped.Now on the Coupe I had a 95 GT MC, 95 GT booster, 95 GT front spindle setup with the stock GT rotors, 99 GT PBR calipers on the front, the stock 95 GT brakes in the rear, gutted stock proportioning valve, and a Willwood inline proportioning valve. The car stopped on a dime and it was a huge improvement over the stock Fox junk. When I upgraded to the Cobra brakes on the Coupe (front and back) it went from stopping to almost knocking the wind out of you from the seat belt crushing your chest. Both setups had the Hawk HP pads which is about the least aggressive pad I like to run.Once I got the Coupe squared up the Bird got the same brake setup but I have not had it on the road to test out. My guess is it will be adequate with the 351W and the additional weight of the car.Fore reference (information from http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page1.html):'84-86 SVO - (SAE Threads) 1 1/8" bore, old style aluminum reservoir unit. no low fluid sensor. This is the same as the 84-90 Lincoln Mark 7. The difference is usually the SVO is aluminum, and the Lincoln can be a cast iron unit. The aluminum is what you want to keep the weight down.'85 Towncar - (SAE Threads) 1" bore, old style aluminum reservoir unit, no low fluid sensor. '93 Cobra - (metric threads) 1.00" bore'94-95 GT/V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor'94-98 V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor'94-95 Cobra - (metric threads) 15/16" bore, stock plug in for low fluid sensor. Ports are reversed thread sizes from 87-95 LX/V6/GT'99 V6 - (metric threads) 1.000" and 1.006" bore. Can be converted to work for the low fluid sensor on the Fox3 cars96+ V8 Units - These are hydroboosted and the mounted is vertically vs horizontal required for a vacuum booster. They will NOT work for our converstions unless you swap in the entire system.Darren Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #28 – February 14, 2012, 06:54:31 PM Quote from: Aerocoupe;377025PSI = pounds per square inch. A smaller diameter piston in the MC will give you a higher pressure with less effort but it moves less fluid which is fine if you don't need to move a lot of fluid.On the 83 I had the SVO MC, stock booster, SVO 73mm front calipers on the 11" rotors, the Stainless Steel Disc Brake kit for the Fox Mustang on the back, gutted stock proportion valve, and a Wilwood inline proportioning valve. The brakes SUCKED bad. The pedal effort was very high and the car did not stop for shiznit. The whole system was completely mismatched. A larger booster would have helped (1993 Mustang Cobra unit) or a smaller bore MC (85 Lincoln Towncar) would have helped.Now on the Coupe I had a 95 GT MC, 95 GT booster, 95 GT front spindle setup with the stock GT rotors, 99 GT PBR calipers on the front, the stock 95 GT brakes in the rear, gutted stock proportioning valve, and a Willwood inline proportioning valve. The car stopped on a dime and it was a huge improvement over the stock Fox junk. When I upgraded to the Cobra brakes on the Coupe (front and back) it went from stopping to almost knocking the wind out of you from the seat belt crushing your chest. Both setups had the Hawk HP pads which is about the least aggressive pad I like to run.Once I got the Coupe squared up the Bird got the same brake setup but I have not had it on the road to test out. My guess is it will be adequate with the 351W and the additional weight of the car.The 93 Cobra MC has a 1" bore where the 94-95 GT MC has a 15/16" bore just for reference.Darren Are you sure 94-95 MC's have 15/16" bores Darren? I thought they had 1 1/16" bores, whereas the Cobra MC's have 1" bores. Did you mistype, or was I wrong thinking they had bigger bores? Quote Selected
Brake master cylinder upgrade? Reply #29 – February 15, 2012, 03:26:25 PM Good catch! I got them backwards. I tried to correct it on my iPhone yesterday but I could not log in for some reason. Anyhow, I have edited my post above with the correct information and some additional information.Darren Quote Selected
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