Head gasket failure?

Topic: Head gasket failure? (Read 5624 times) previous topic - next topic

Head gasket failure?

February 20, 2011, 08:47:15 PM

I am having some issues that seem to point towards a head gasket, but would like some input before tearing into the project. The coolant is brown in color and it is running rough. Other than that, there are no symptoms.

I did a compression check and all cylinders are 140-150 across the board. The plugs looked normal. The exhaust isn't spewing white smoke and the oil looks okay. What else can I check to narrow down the problem?

Compression test results:
1-140
2-145
3-150
4-150
5-150
6-150
7-150
8-150

Head gasket failure?

Reply #1 – February 20, 2011, 09:00:50 PM

with the engine running and cold take the radiator cap off and look for exhaust bubbles in the coolant.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #2 – February 20, 2011, 09:04:29 PM

Are you using any antifreeze or oil? prestone makes a big funnel with adapters that can screw into the radiator cap and fill it up run the car and look for bubbles. Does it smoke at the exhaust?

Head gasket failure?

Reply #3 – February 21, 2011, 12:45:02 AM

I am just getting everything put back together and set up after the engine swap. Over the course of just 20 miles or so, it is difficult to determine fluid use. Fluid levels haven't changed, the coolant has just changed to a murky brown color. It isn't blowing any kind of smoke from the exhaust. I will check for bubbles in the radiator.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #4 – February 21, 2011, 08:36:01 AM

Is it possible the coolant passages in the swapped engine were rusty? Not sure if that would even cause that, just throwing a thought out there?

If there is no bubbling, maybe flush the coolant system and add fresh and see what develops??

Head gasket failure?

Reply #5 – February 21, 2011, 09:05:02 AM

What Mike said. Could just be rust. (Hopefully)

Head gasket failure?

Reply #6 – February 21, 2011, 09:47:21 AM

Quote from: flylear45;353517

What Mike said. Could just be rust. (Hopefully)

Agreed. Use one of the radiator flush products with water to flush any more out, and then try new coolant. When you drain the anti-freeze thats in there, let it sit in a container for a little while or a clear jar. After an hour or so look at it. If its rust/debris, it should more than likely sink. Oil, etc will float. Just my thoughts.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #7 – February 21, 2011, 11:19:04 AM

Maybe do a Leak Down on #1 and #2

Head gasket failure?

Reply #8 – February 21, 2011, 01:35:26 PM

Quote from: jpc647;353519

Agreed. Use one of the radiator flush products with water to flush any more out, and then try new coolant. When you drain the anti-freeze thats in there, let it sit in a container for a little while or a clear jar. After an hour or so look at it. If its rust/debris, it should more than likely sink. Oil, etc will float. Just my thoughts.

I will try the jar thing. I hate to waste the money on flushing and refilling if the new coolant will get polluted all over again. It very well could be rust, the water pump on it was stuck at first and a bunch of brown gunk came out when I flushed it before installation. Maybe I didn't get all the rust out of the system.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #9 – February 21, 2011, 03:14:34 PM

It's worth a shot. It should be a clear distinction between oil/antifreeze mixed and rust/antifreeze, I would think.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #10 – February 21, 2011, 08:26:10 PM

It is definitely oil :( Looks like my weekend is booked...

Head gasket failure?

Reply #11 – February 21, 2011, 09:32:38 PM

IMHO, this is a candidate for the $100 flush (I am retired so it is free now, but you have to do it yourself). Go ahead and run it for now, as long as it is not losing coolant or overheating. A few days of running will scrub the passages and loosen up lots of the crud in there. Find a spot where you can make a big mess, because there will be a big rusty stain on the concrete and antifreeze flowing in the gutter when you are done. If possible park the car with the nose steeply downward and the wheels safely blocked, so the engine will drain better. Safely remove the radiator cap and open the radiator drainpen 15. Remove the heater hose that flows out of the block and point it downward so that it can gush water. Stick a garden hose into the radiator filler neck, start the engine and regulate the water flow so that it just overflows a little at the filler neck. The discharge hose should be puking brown water onto the ground. When the discharge hose flows clear, pinch it off to make water flow backwards through the heater core. It needs cleaning too. When all the discharge water is clear, turn off the garden hose and watch the discharge hose. As soon as the discharge stream stops flowing, turn the water back on (don't worry, it's not gong to overheat). The bubbles and turbulence this sudden surge causes will drive more crud out. Repeat until the discharge stream is clear. When finished, turn off the garden hose first, then when the discharge hose stops flowing shut off the engine and let it drain well. When you refill it remember that there is still quite a lot of pure water trapped in the block so add pure green AF until full and then test after running.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #12 – February 22, 2011, 12:48:20 AM

and my 2c worth.

this is what i did several years ago.....

go to napa and pic up a packet of those valve stems. They come with a complete install kit so you just add it to a car rim.

undo and plug off your heater core hose connections with a bolt or something and a clamp.

sacrafice your upper radiator hose by installing this on the upper hose.
get you bike pump and add about 10 or so psi and watch the needle on the bike pump (one of those foot pedal pumps).
You may have to add a larger flat washer on the front and back side to help seal.

if you see it leak down, you need to listen and find out where the leak is.

have all your spark plugs out as well as your dip stick to listen there as well.
You might have to pick up a stethiscope from harbor frieght to help pinpoint.

I would first off flush the darn thing out, its really hard to judge now with just an initial load of coolant.
Like said, get the nose down and work your garden hose.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #13 – February 22, 2011, 12:48:36 AM

and my 2c worth on an inexpensive leak down test.

this is what i did several years ago.....

go to napa and pic up a packet of those valve stems. They come with a complete install kit so you just add it to a car rim.

undo and plug off your heater core hose connections with a bolt or something and a clamp.

sacrafice your radiator hose by installing this on the LOWER hose.
if you simply poke a hole near the hose clamp (radiator side) and install close to the clamp, you can just trim off later and not have to buy a new lower hose.
get your bike pump and add about 10 or so psi and watch the needle on the bike pump (one of those foot pedal pumps or 12v powered)
You may have to add a larger flat washer on the front and back side of the valve stem to help seal.

add air and if you see it leak down, you need to listen and find out where the leak is.

what you are doing above is injecting air into the lower hose and pushing presure up towards the thermostat which stops all air at that point. sure there is presure on the bypass of the water pump but thats why you have your heater core hoses blocked off, I didnt want you to blow your heater core.

have all your spark plugs out , oil fill cap off as well as your oil dip stick to listen there as well.
You may want to have your PCV valve hose out as well to listen in there for any noise.
You might have to pick up a stethiscope from harbor frieght to help pinpoint.

I would first off flush the darn thing out, its really hard to judge now with just an initial load of coolant.
Like said, get the nose down and work your garden hose.

Head gasket failure?

Reply #14 – February 22, 2011, 01:20:47 AM

Definitely going to try the flush and see what happens. Probably going to waste a little coolant, but if it turns out okay, I will be a happy camper. It also seems to be running very poorly after the compression check, so I think something is up w/ the ignition. I checked all the wires and the cap/rotor are new. The plugs are the bosch platinum type that don't require gapping. I have read that these plugs are not a good option for older engines? I wasn't going to change them, since that is what it came with.

Anyway... I will flush it, refill it, and see what happens.