Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

The internet is bad at getting the point crossed. I was not upset, but it is difficult to understand cirspoogestances through black and white text. Best way to learn is to jump right in. Nothing is better then hands on, which some direction so you are not wasting money needlessly.

you really need to pick up one of those cheapy buttstuffog meters they sell anywhere, tiny little meters with a needle.

if you had one of those, you would have found the tps was bad long ago.  You would have literally seen the intermittant open ckt.

I understand. I have a hard time following some of the instructions myself.

But on a good note, I swapped out the TPS and am no longer getting a check engine light! Now all is not well yet. I was not able to reset the base idle because I don't have a tachometer of any kind, therefore when idling at a stop light, etc, the car is a little shakey and sometimes when letting off the gas today I can feel the engine sort of idle too low. If that makes sense. It stumbles, not bad, but it is noticeable. My father thinks he has a timing light/rpm light at his work, and he is going to bring it home.

So we are on the right track. I will clear codes tonight, and go from there... :)

when you reset the base idle, you clear codes, unplug the iac and start it up. If it won,t stay running, throttle up you idle with the throttle stop screw until it will stau running. You can throttle your idle up or down, then when you get it to a low rpm's without it stalling, plug in the iac. The computer will set the idle where it needs to be. Go out and drive the car for 10 to 20 minutes under "normal" conditions. Making it sit to learn the idle is a myth.

I would do it warm. Basically, you can modify where the computer will set the idle, but if everything is working correctly and the idle screw is not adjusted too far, it will automatically set it to, or close enough it will not matter.

Did you try the trouble shooting proceedure that I suggested in post #70 ?

Question regarding that.I can only test it while running the KOEO test right? I'll run it, wait till its done, floor the accelerator pedal, then seeing the actuators are active, I can test by sucking air, the floor it again to check it without it activated. Tha'ts what you were trying to describe?

The EVP wire runs through the white 10 pin connector. I have a correct VREF of 5.0 volts, and as SIG-RTN of 3.8/3.9. The SIG-RTN should be less than .67v. Therefore, I have a short somewhere.  I unplugged the 10 pin connector and got 0v for SIG-RTN and VREF which according to Joel means the problem is after the 10 pin connector, which is sorta good news.

I cut the loom back last night to find one orange wire running from the harness spliced into two orange wires, one going to the TPS one going to the EVP. At first I thought this was my problem, but it appears to be how it's supposed to be. Now for the heck of it, I grounded this wire, and tried to run EOEO test, and the check engine light just stayed on and I could hear some actuator near the trunk clicking away. So I'm probably not supposed to ground that.  But now I'm wondering if this orange wire is tied to the orange wire that we've had threads about, the one that some people ground, others dont, etc. I may try to temporarily ground it and see what happens. I'll attempt to look at the EVTM tonight and see if I can make heads or tails of it.