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Topic: New guy needs some help (Read 3396 times) previous topic - next topic

New guy needs some help

Well I'm new to Thunderbirds and this forum.  I got my 1985 Bird 5.0 auto after my car was totaled.  My fiance's dad had bought the bird for his other daughter who refused it and when we asked to borrow it till we got a settlement he told us no, but we could buy it.  I was grinning ear to ear.  I've loved this car since I first saw her.  She's not the best looking, and needs some work but she's my Bird.

The issues I'm having are as follows:

Starting cold I have to press the gas slightly and hold it till she's completely warmed up.  I think I narrowed that down to the tv cable needing to be adjusted and will try that in the morning.

She idles rough, almost like she has aftermarket camshafts.  I've checked for vacuum leaks, with no luck.  Haven't tried removing plug wires after getting shocked the first two I tried.  I found a brand new fuel filter in the trunk was thinking of putting it in and see if it works.

Lastly the rear suspension seams to bottom out over moderate bumps, and at 70mph the rear end wiggles.  I regret that I'm not too familiar with the suspension on older cars so I have no idea what I'm looking for other than loose/worn bushings/bolts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is our only car until tax time and if she dies we're screwed.  I can take pics and videos if that would help.

New guy needs some help

Reply #1 –
Quote from: Nytedragon;346296
The issues I'm having are as follows:

Starting cold I have to press the gas slightly and hold it till she's completely warmed up.  I think I narrowed that down to the tv cable needing to be adjusted and will try that in the morning.

The TV cable affects the shifting of the AOD only, has no bearing whatsoever on the engine, let alone cold starts. Check for codes first. Have you done a tune-up? New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and oil/filter change, as well as new air filter? Also, did I mention codes? It could be an IAC, for example. Just guessing and throwing parts is a little silly. Any decent parts store will have a code reader, usually let you use it in the parking lot for free.

Quote from: Nytedragon;346296
She idles rough, almost like she has aftermarket camshafts.  I've checked for vacuum leaks, with no luck.  Haven't tried removing plug wires after getting shocked the first two I tried.  I found a brand new fuel filter in the trunk was thinking of putting it in and see if it works.

5.0 engines like ours only have one cam ;)
Vacuum leaks can be a right PITA to track down. Only remove plug wires if you have a non-conductive tool...the fact you got bit twice says something about your learning capability :rollin:
The trunk-found fuel pump needs to go in the trash. Buy a known clean good one..hell, the one in the trunk might not even be the right one, then you're stranded with a car that can't run.

Quote from: Nytedragon;346296
Lastly the rear suspension seams to bottom out over moderate bumps, and at 70mph the rear end wiggles.  I regret that I'm not too familiar with the suspension on older cars so I have no idea what I'm looking for other than loose/worn bushings/bolts.

Shocks, control arm bushings, and tires. The first 2 are definitely going to cause what you describe, and if the tires are old, or knotted, expect some slop from them as well.

I've said it before, and I'm saying it now: anyone who buys a Fox (much less a 25 year old car of any flavor) for a dependable daily driver is either stupid, or broke.

The good thing is, you can look on craigslist and find a lot of decent, usuable parts from Mustang guys who have upgraded...sometimes they'll almost give the parts away.

You'll want shocks, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, and probably new rear control arm bushings. Unless you know for a fact they've been replaced recently. Also an alignment after the new front end work is required. Don't just guess at it, do it right, or you'll be wasting money on tires, and fuel mileage will suffer.

I've been through this a couple of times, I'm not just talking out my ass :hick:

Good luck, and welcome. :D

EDIT: I see you're looking for an '88 5.0 engine harness...just letting you know you'll still need to do some repinning, as your car's connectors wont match those of the '88 harness....nothing to be scared of, but not truly plug and play, either.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

New guy needs some help

Reply #2 –
Are 85s EFI or carbed? If you got shocked by the plug wires then you need to replace them, that meens they are arcing which can cause it to run like . As for the fuel filter, is it still in the raper. If so than you can check the part number to see if is the right on. Be carefull, it might be the old you that was already replaced. My rearend made the same noise, check the pinion wait. Mine came lose and caused a noise like you're talking about. It also could be control arm bushings, sway bar, or shocks. It could also be a loss exhaust pipe, Its pretty tight around the rearend and if the exhaust is loss it could be hitting the rear or suspension parts.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New guy needs some help

Reply #3 –
Well my father in-law had changed the rotor and cap, and the filter looks good.  I'll check for codes and the plugs/wires asap.

Quote
I've said it before, and I'm saying it now: anyone who buys a Fox (much less a 25 year old car of any flavor) for a dependable daily driver is either stupid, or broke.


Broke would be the one. 

As for the suspension the tires are after market....american racing outlaw 2's wearing 235/60r14.  Now I notice that those rims are only 7" but the tires are 9....could that be the culprit?

New guy needs some help

Reply #4 –
Plugs and wires sound like the ill running culprit. 

The tire size shouldnt have anything to do with the suspension issues. 

Im assuming you mean the air filter looks good.  If you're talking about the fuel filter, please let me know how a visual inspection of the outside tells the inside condition.
41 Dodge Luxury Liner Sedan
78 F-100 2wd flareside
84Turbo Coupe
84 Thunderbird Élan
85 Thunderbird 3.8
88 Turbo Coupe
88 Mustang GT
90 Stang LX 5.0 5spd
93 F-150 4x4 ext cab
96 Mustang GT
98 Mustang GT
99 SVT Cobra
06 Fusion SEL
14 Fusion Sport

New guy needs some help

Reply #5 –
If you have a too-wide tire on a narrow wheel, it'll cause squirminess. First hand experience with that on more than vehicle.
Didn't know a tail pipe would cause the rear to squirm though lol
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

New guy needs some help

Reply #6 –
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;346318
If you have a too-wide tire on a narrow wheel, it'll cause squirminess. First hand experience with that on more than vehicle.
Didn't know a tail pipe would cause the rear to squirm though lol

 
Mine came lose and caused a noise like you're talking about. It also could be control arm bushings, sway bar, or shocks. It could also be a loss exhaust pipe, Its pretty tight around the rearend and if the exhaust is loss it could be hitting the rear or suspension parts.
I was talking about a loss exhaust making noise. He said the car was making a noise when he hits bumps. As for the tires, they're not too wide for the rim. Tire rack reccomends 6-9" rims for that tire size.http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Radial+T%2FA&partnum=36SR4RADTARWL2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&tab=Specs
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New guy needs some help

Reply #7 –
Quote
Im assuming you mean the air filter looks good. If you're talking about the fuel filter, please let me know how a visual inspection of the outside tells the inside condition.


Sorry I did in fact mean air filter, coincidentally there is a new air filter in the trunk as well.  The accelerator cable is g me off, the car has the rod for the kickdown not a cable and the connection looks great for the cars age.  As for the suspension I'm gonna empty the trunk and test drive it.  Seeing as though I have probly 100 lbs of  in there that has no place to go.  3 people living in a one bedroom apartment, with a storage unit that can't be used because things end up either missing or water damaged.  I need a better job, this car deserves better treatment then I can afford right now.

New guy needs some help

Reply #8 –
Does your car have a carb or EFI? The reason I ask is if it has a kick down rod then its carbed. If it is carbed then your cold running issue is the choke. You might want to overhaul your carb. With a carb overhaul and new spark plug wires I'd bet it would run a lot better. If they shock you when you try to touch them then they're bad. Like I said before, the noise in the rear could be a number of things like, loose exhaust hitting the body or suspension, bad control arm bushings, sway bar links, or the pinion weight. My pinion weight came loose and made noise. I have also had noise from my exhaust hanger brakeing allowing my exhaust to hit my suspension and body.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New guy needs some help

Reply #9 –
I will go check right now....I thought it was tbi, but I'll go look now

New guy needs some help

Reply #10 –
I see fuel injectors so I assume tbi. 

New guy needs some help

Reply #11 –
It could be but I dont think they put a TBI on the 5.0 in the T-bird/cougars. I think mid way through 85 they switched from carb to EFI. I could be wrong.

I guess I was wrong. Thats the first I've seen a TBI 5.0 bird.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New guy needs some help

Reply #12 –
I see it still has a choke tho. It's on the PS of the TB. You should check to see if it's working right. See if it has power to it when its cold.
88 Cougar LS 5.0 .030 over, ported E7s with GT40 valves & trickflow springs, Proform roller rockers, HO cam, removed air silencer, K&N filter, smog pump delete, 2.25" dual flowmasters, Pacestter H-pipe & headers, HO computer, 65mm TB, Explorer intake, 19# injecters, 3.45s, rebuilt posi, and TCI shift kit.

New guy needs some help

Reply #13 –
My father in-law did say it's not the original engine, and also estimated that it puts out 275-300 hp...but that could just be bull pucky.

New guy needs some help

Reply #14 –
Quote from: Bruce M;346336
I see it still has a choke tho. It's on the PS of the TB. You should check to see if it's working right. See if it has power to it when its cold.

Figures...when I need a test light I don't have one....I knew I should have picked one up.