won't turn over after maf conversion

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won't turn over after maf conversion

May 05, 2005, 04:42:17 PM

As the title says. My radio won't even turn on. But the lights work. Is there any chance that the modifications to the wiring harness could have caused this if done improperly?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #1 – May 05, 2005, 05:00:11 PM

There is the chance, but you'd probably better look at that ignition switch as well. They're pr0ne to sudden, catastrophic failure (and quite often, fire). When no ignition switched accessory works, or when several stop working at once, the ign witch is usually at fault. Also, check the fusible links at the starter solenoid (driver's side fender) to make sure none are burned and that they are getting a good connection. Those fusible links feed the ignition switch among other things.

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #2 – May 05, 2005, 05:34:16 PM

Good thinking. You might be on to something because my fuel pump won't turn on either. Now is the ignition switch the the where the key goes in or is it the thing underneath where the wires plug into?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #3 – May 05, 2005, 06:41:45 PM

something to try:

get in the car, and slowly rotate the key into the run position, and slowly past the run position, my dads car had a bad switch, and he would be able to turn on the "functions" with different key positions

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #4 – May 05, 2005, 06:44:27 PM

Oh yeah forgot.....The ding ding ding you get when your key is in and your door is open still dings. Does that rule out the bad switch?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #5 – May 05, 2005, 09:07:22 PM

Anyone else?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #6 – May 05, 2005, 09:35:51 PM

No, the "Dinger" switch is right in the lock cylinder, not affected by the ignition switch. The ignition switch is mounded below the lock cylinder on the steering column. If you remove the lower plastic you'll see it. A new one is about $12, and it's worth every penny. I personally had a car burn because of these faulty switches (it didn't burn "to the ground", but it did leave me stranded 500 miles from home)

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #7 – May 05, 2005, 10:50:37 PM

Thanks for the info. Tomorrow i'm gonna borrow the ignition switch out of my parts car and see if that works. If it doesn't I'll just go ahead and buy a new one anyways for the peice of mind.

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #8 – May 06, 2005, 01:22:14 PM

Tryed the ignition switch swap but it didn't work. Maybe because the car I borrowed from was an 86? Idk but i'm getting real pissed off now. This is rediculous. If it isn't one thing, it's another. Maybe I forgot to hook a ground back up? Would that couse this?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #9 – May 06, 2005, 02:54:14 PM

Anybody else with some ideas???????

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #10 – May 06, 2005, 03:36:58 PM

A bad ground could cause it, but your lights likely wouldn't work either if this were the case. Didja check those fusible links at the starter solenoid?

With the lights on, try cranking it. If the lights go dim or out, the starter is getting juice but not enough to turn over. Could be a bad battery or bad connection. If the lights don't change there is no juice getting to the starter.

Since you've already got the column shroud off and you can get to the ignition switch wiring, do the following checks:

Check for power at the large YELLOW (both of them, there are two) and BLACK/ORANGE wires at the ignition switch - these wires go directly to the starter solenoid, so if you've got no power at all three (all three must have power) your problem is in the wiring between the switch and solenoid (or the aforementioned fusible links).

If there is power at those wires, turn the ignition to "run" and test for power at the GREY/YELLOW STRIPE wire, the RED/GREEN STRIPE wire and the BLACK/GREEN STRIPE wire. In "RUN" all three of these wires should be hot. If any of them aren't, but you have power at the yellow and black/orange wires tested above, you have a bad ignition switch. Now turn the switch to "START" and check the RED/BLUE STRIPE and YELLOW/RED STRIPE wires for power. If these wires have power, and all of the wires above have power with their respective tests, your ignition switch is OK.

If you have power at all of these wires check the wiring between the switch and the fuse panel, and the main bulkhead connector in the firewall.

To recap, at the ignition switch harness (with it plugged into the switch) you should have the following results:

Key in OFF position:

Power at YELLOW (X2) and BLACK/ORANGE STRIPE

Key in RUN:

Power at YELLOW (X2), BLACK/ORANGE STRIPE, GREY/YELLOW STRIPE, RED/GREEN STRIPE, and BLACK/GREEN STRIPE

Key in START:

Power at YELLOW (X2), BLACK/ORANGE STRIPE, RED/GREEN STRIPE, RED/BLUE STRIPE and YELLOW/RED STRIPE

Key in ACC:

Power at YELLOW (X2), BLACK/ORANGE STRIPE, BLACK/GREEN STRIPE

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #11 – May 06, 2005, 03:53:55 PM

Thanks for the info once again and no I did not check the fusible links because I do not know what they are. i looked around the started solenoid and could not find anything other than wires.

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #12 – May 06, 2005, 04:10:43 PM

k scratch that last post, found em. They were down in there pretty deep. They all looked pretty good. Nothing unusual about them. checking the ignition wires like you said to as soon as i post this. I'll come back with the results.

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #13 – May 06, 2005, 05:12:22 PM

None had power.......According to my light tester. Is that good enough for automotive stuff? What I did to test was cut some sheating away from the wire and put the red side to it then grounded the black side to a piece of metal on my center concole that is grounding other stuff. Would that be adequate?

Re: won't turn over after maf conversion

Reply #14 – May 06, 2005, 07:26:49 PM

fusible links are wires that are thinner than the rest of the circuit and are coated in a fireproof insulation. They are designed to burn up before the rest of the wire in the circuit in case of a short to prevent fire damage. They are quite capable of blowing or breaking with no visible damage, and the connection at the solenoid can corrode as well. Check them by first very carefully visually inspecting them and checking the connections for corrosion, and by probing the wires on the other side of the factory splice with your test light (after about 6" of wire from the solenoid there should be factory splices where the fuse links attach to the regular wires - check the regular wires after this connection). If you have power at all of the wires your problem is between this point and the ignition switch. You'll either have to find the problem or run new wires (of course finding the problem is more desirable).

Did you have the solenoid out of the car at all? If so, are you sure you attached those fse links to the right side of the solenoid? They should be connected to the side of the solenoid that has power all the time (there will be a short, thick cable directly to the battery positive post).

A light tester should be OK, but to ensure that you're getting a good ground you should try the red side on a known good positive (cig lighter socket, console light, etc). This also verifies that the test light is working. You wouldn't want to misdiagnose based on a bad test light or bad ground to the test light!

If you're not getting any power at all (and you're sure the test light has a good ground), the problem would have to be in the two yellow and one black/orange wire. It's unlikely that both of these "burned" or broke, even the fusible links, so you should check the bulkhead electrical connector at the firewall.