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Topic: Another AC thread (Read 1389 times) previous topic - next topic

Another AC thread

Was following Rdog's thread

Mine quit working recently also. Was working great, now just blows hot air. I dont notice the compressor kick on, when I turn the switch.

Where/what are the above mentioned fuses and relays. I didnt see mention of them in the owners manual.
__________________


The compressor I can turn by hand.  I jumpered the pressure switch and nothing.  I checked the voltage at the compressor connector with the pressure switch jumped and had 13Volts.

Is there anything else I can check?  Does that mean the compressor is bad or is it the clutch?


 Edit, not sure, but I used my Ohm setting and checked the 2 connectors in the clutch switch and they didnt read open, this was with the car off.  Not sure if I did it right, or if it means anything ?????
Mike

Another AC thread

Reply #2 –
Sorry, I dont know much about AC, how do you check the clutch and is it replaceable by itself?
Mike

Another AC thread

Reply #3 –
Is there a relay for that anywhere on these cars?
Mike

Another AC thread

Reply #4 –
Quote from: mcb82gt;330010
how do you check the clutch and is it replaceable by itself?
You should check it with the ohm-meter. It should have some resistance, I think less than 20 ohms. If it has much higher resistance or you won't be able to measure it, it is burnt.
The clutch might be interchangeable, like clutches on other A/C compressors, but I think it will be cheaper to grab some older one from syard, than buying a new one.
Complete circuit diagram is in the second A/C thread.

Another AC thread

Reply #5 –
First i would check the freon, by adding a can. then I would jump the switch that you see on my thread. If you jump the switch and the compressor kicks on, its the switch. All you have to do to jump the switch is take a short peice of wire and jump the connector plug that goes into the switch.
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

Another AC thread

Reply #7 –
I jumpered the switch, no compressor action, (it has 13V at the connector when I jumper it).  It cant be freon level or the switch.

Well, I mean there is some issue with the compressor/clutch that must be addressed first.
Mike

Another AC thread

Reply #8 –
Sounds a lot like something in the clutch went out. There is really 4  pieces in there you have the 2 clutch pieces, a magnetic coil, and a bearing. You have to take the clutch off to get to the magnet coil. Remove and inspect the clutch pieces just remove that center bolt and slide the parts off. Might need to take two screw drivers and slide one in on each side and jiggle them back and forth to get the outer clutch plate off. Then the slide the inner clutch piece off, might again have to jiggle off again. Then the Magnet coil is normally a light press fit on the center hub it sits on. I normally have to VERY GENTLY tap the old one off and tap the new on one. " NEVER POUND, HIT, SMACK, WHACK, or anything other than light taps. Inspect the clutch plate pieces you have those might be good and just the magnet coil gone bad. If those plate matting surfaces are nice flat and smooth and you've got 12volts at the coil pigtail with the system turned on. Then the coil sounds like it but I would also check the ground wire in that pigtail. Power with no ground still makes magnet/coil no work.  Forget all about the switch if you are getting power out at the AC clutch pigtail the switch should be good. Also plug the pressure switch pigtail back in and check for voltage at the Clutch pigtail. If you still have 12v+ at the clutch pigtail with the pressure switch plugged in you have enough in the system to turn it on. Once again pointing to the Clutch magnet coil. You should be able to buy the clutch as a whole unit or in pieces just depends on what you can find. Also might be able to  find a used/different coil that will work. Might have to swap pigtails. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how much effort you want to put into it yourself. The only thing anyone that is willing should need and AC guy for is if you want R12 or other license requiring refrigerants. Everything else you can get the cheap tools and do everything your self.

Stuckman
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Another AC thread

Reply #9 –
Just another idea - I had 12v at the clutch before but it wouldn't turn on. I jumped it from the battery and it turned just fine. Turned out, my WOT cutout relay was really worn out internally and wasn't allowing enough current to pass. A new relay fixed it.

Just another potential cause, although unlikely. The 12v jump from the battery is a good test though.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Another AC thread

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Seek;330068
Just another idea - I had 12v at the clutch before but it wouldn't turn on. I jumped it from the battery and it turned just fine. Turned out, my WOT cutout relay was really worn out internally and wasn't allowing enough current to pass. A new relay fixed it.

Just another potential cause, although unlikely. The 12v jump from the battery is a good test though.


This is why my A/C stopped working a few years ago as well. Replaced the WOT switch and all has been good since:D
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Another AC thread

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Seek;330068
Just another idea - I had 12v at the clutch before but it wouldn't turn on. I jumped it from the battery and it turned just fine. Turned out, my WOT cutout relay was really worn out internally and wasn't allowing enough current to pass. A new relay fixed it.

Just another potential cause, although unlikely. The 12v jump from the battery is a good test though.


I wonder if my problem wasnt similar :hick:

I just for the hell of it, undid the relay and unbolted it from the fender and cleaned the mounting (ground) surface and relay.  I put it back together and jumpered the pressure switch and the clutch took off!

I hooked up the pressure switch and plug and .... nothing.

I went and bought a new 134 pressure switch and installed it. Clutch took off like normal.  Charged the system properly and has been cooling great.  I will see how it goes. Thanks everyone.

:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:
Mike