Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Topic: Turbo-Coupe rearend swap (Read 10873 times) previous topic - next topic

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #30 – August 13, 2010, 04:00:34 PM

Quote from: xjeffs;331725

Are you referring to the difference between Mustang GT and TC 8.8's or Cougar drum 8.8 vs. TC 8.8? The axle tube length is the same on all of them right?

BTW I edited my post to make it a little more clear. It sounded confusing when I re-read it.

no not the tube length, but the distance between the outside end of the tube and where the drum backing plate or the caliper bracket bolts to the thats welded to the tube

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #31 – August 14, 2010, 03:51:28 PM

I think I understand what you are talking about. Would this be the area where the axle bearing and seal are installed on the ends of the axle?

Darren

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #32 – August 16, 2010, 12:38:41 PM

yes that is where I am talking about

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #33 – August 16, 2010, 01:15:13 PM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;331731

This thread may be of some help:

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13253

I know I am being Captain Obvious but its got some good data in it and I believe you will be able to see the housing length differences between your car and the year of the TC you got the rear from.

Darren

This is the useful bit here...
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=138359&postcount=12

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #34 – August 16, 2010, 07:22:51 PM

Quote from: xjeffs;331701

I’m not going to highjack here cuz this is on topic. I just picked up a TC rear end for cheap. It was $250 cheaper than a guy here in town and has new brake hardware. What I didn’t notice till I got it home was that the more minor of the quad shock brackets were cut off on both sides. I did notice before the sale that the lines had been redone and weren’t in a position for the hose bracket by the caliper to bolt down. The main hose connection is on the pumpkin and not on the passenger’s axle like in the original post with pictures, too. I’m assuming that this axle may have had a pan hard bar or some other type of suspension improvement. Anyone have any thoughts on whether I should swap all the TC hardware to my drum axle or use this axle and take advantage of whatever suspension improvements this can take advantage of?

So I'm not getting where this conversation is going towards answering my question. I'm pretty confident that it has TC hubs since it has the ABS ring on it. I'll measure the width to ensure that it is 61".

The question is, should i use the axle housing with or without all the quad shock brackets?

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #35 – August 18, 2010, 10:04:50 PM

You could swap the parts over to the drum axle if you want to keep the quad shock set up. But most people when they swap CHE trail arms in for the stock arms, they don't need the quad shocks anymore. The new arms with the poly/urathane bushings stop the wheel hop that you can get. If you go wider tires in the rear you need to remove the quad shocks.... I have the quad shocks on my car stock but they are bad and I don't need them anymore. So I will just pull them.

All up to you and what suspension set up your going to do on the car in the future. Or can your car even spin the tires from a stop?

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #36 – August 18, 2010, 10:08:22 PM

I am still waiting for the pics of the rear diff swap so I can see what I have to do too do this. If I do this at my work, then I need a quick easy swap with all the info and pics I can get. Heck, it only took me 3 min to pull the TC diff out at work and it will only take me a few min to get it into my car. It is the brake fittings and what mods I have to do to make it work so I can drive it home after I install it. And I am more of a visual guy then a read about it.

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #37 – August 19, 2010, 12:31:58 AM

Quote from: 86caprirs;332547

You could swap the parts over to the drum axle if you want to keep the quad shock set up. But most people when they swap CHE trail arms in for the stock arms, they don't need the quad shocks anymore. The new arms with the poly/urathane bushings stop the wheel hop that you can get. If you go wider tires in the rear you need to remove the quad shocks.... I have the quad shocks on my car stock but they are bad and I don't need them anymore. So I will just pull them.

All up to you and what suspension set up your going to do on the car in the future. Or can your car even spin the tires from a stop?

Thanks for your thoughts. Gives me more to go read about.

I expect it will spin the tires. I'm currently dropping a 4.6L 3v from an 08 GT. I'm thinking I may have to be concerned with axle wind up. Do the CHE trail arms address that or is wheel hop the same thing as axle wind up?

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=18403

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #38 – August 19, 2010, 01:34:03 AM

The arms should address that.

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #39 – August 22, 2010, 10:32:36 PM

Ok. What fittings and size line did you guys use to extend the brake line to the turbo coupe rear diff flex hose? I want to get the parts ordered so I can install this diff into my car.

Thanks

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #40 – August 22, 2010, 10:34:39 PM

What did you guys also use as a porportioning valve?

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #41 – August 27, 2010, 05:00:30 PM

I gutted the stock proportioning valve under the MC but left the shuttle valve. After that I installed the FMS M2450 plug in the front of the stock proportioning valve and installed an adjustable proportioning valve (I used a Wilwood, Summit P/N WIL-260-8419). I pilfered this from Matt's site but it is very informative on why you will need to do this:

[COLOR="blue"]The stock proportioning valve will need to be modified if you go to rear disc or to install an adjustable proportioning valve. You will need the FMS part: M-2450-A and an adjustable proportioning valve to complete the modification. The stock PV is housed in the combination block under the MC towards the front of the car. The rear of the combination block housed the shuttle valve or pressure differential valve. Do not touch this shuttle valve assembly in the combination block.

Why do you need to modify the proportioning valve? Because it is designed for the specific car and brakes that come with it off the assembly line. So if you change to different size brakes, you will need to change the front to rear bias via the proportioning valve. If you do not, then you will not get the most braking capability out of the car. Worst case scenario, you have too much rear bias and the car spins around when the brakes are applied. Not good on a rainy night! Why not use a Sn95 unit? First off there is two different styles on the 94+ Mustangs. The non-ABS cars have a unit with a factory 3rd port out the back of the valve. You could use this housing unit to convert to a 2 port MC, but you have to get the brake line nut off the 3rd brake line. You will not find that nut at any parts store. The ABS equipped mustangs do not have this 3rd port and are mounted differently in the car. With either unit, the bias is built for the newer Sn95 cars. Thus the bias on these units is just as wrong as your stock unit for use with rear disc. You need to set the bias properly for your car which means you have to install an adjustable valve after defeating/gutting the stock PV unit.

Okay, so how do you "gut" this proportioning valve? You use a 13/16 wrench and take the front cap off of it. Be careful as once it is loosened, the spring will shoot it out! Then remove the spring, the spring seat and rod and discard. You may need some needle nose pliers to remove the rod from the valve. Do NOT remove the rear spring and rod from the rear of the valve. Transfer the rubber O-ring from the stock end cap to the FMS M2450A unit and install the FMS plug.

Once you are done modifying the stock valve, you need to install an adjustable unit. There are two kinds of adjustable units: style and lever style. The lever style is more designed for an in-car application so that you can adjust the bias as the tires and brakes wear down in a race. You want the style. To install it, remove the coupler along the passenger side firewall and replace that with the valve.

When you bleed the brakes, adjust the valve all the way in for the maximum rear pressure. Once done, adjust the valve all the way out, and then in 4 full turns for your initial setting. Adjust in 1 turn increments from there and then half turn increments to fine tune. You will feel the braking and the pedal differ as the bias is changed.[/COLOR]

Darren

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #42 – April 11, 2011, 02:32:35 PM

Mechanized, Did you ever take any pics of the installed/newly routed brake lines from passenger side to driver's side of axle? I figure I'm going to miss something and run the brake lines in a bad or vunerable place.

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #43 – April 11, 2011, 04:07:27 PM

Crash, I just did a TC rear swap in my 86 and can take a pic of the line to the the flexible line. Basically what I did was get a line with nuts and preflared ends (it was 20" long) and just hand bent it into shape. I used a 3/16 union at the factory hard line and a 3/16 to 1/4 adapter to the flex line. I put the back up on jack stands at the frame rail to ensure that the line wasn't pulled on when going over stuff Dukes of Hazzard style.

Turbo-Coupe rearend swap

Reply #44 – April 11, 2011, 09:15:40 PM

Thanks. That would be great. There's some things I'd only like to do once. I'm already contemplating doing the trans cooler lines over again since they sit WAY TOO low. In return I'll post a burnout pic or video (hopefully my car won't disappoint).