No power to IVR... Reply #45 – January 24, 2010, 05:56:19 PM Traced the resistor wire down, it was piggybacked off of a wire (gray/yellow - I forget the pin number) on the ignition switch connector, and the end was burnt. Cut the burnt end off, attached the jumper with an inline circuit breaker from the black/light green wire from the ignition switch, to the resistor wire in pin 12 of the cluster connector, and still nothing. I tested for power at the black/green wire, and at the resistor on pin 12, both have power. I grounded out the temp wire and the temp gauge pegged, however the gas gauge remained the same. Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #46 – January 24, 2010, 06:03:01 PM And did you ground the gas gage too? Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #47 – January 24, 2010, 06:03:42 PM Not too sure how to do that.... Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #48 – January 24, 2010, 06:54:47 PM Ground pin 15. Pin 13 is temperature. If you have about 20 Ohm resistor, put it between gage and ground. It's a protection of the gage. Each gage should have resistance 12,5 Ohm. Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #49 – January 24, 2010, 07:36:32 PM And this would make the gas gauge read full? Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #50 – January 24, 2010, 07:43:04 PM Not full, but about 3/4. Full is 8-12 Ohm, empty 60-86 Ohm. If you look at the picture above, it's written there ;-) Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #51 – January 24, 2010, 10:37:04 PM ill do an update to for everyonelike said, the cluster pin 12 gray resistor wire with yellow writting on it was traced back to a gray wire which apparently opperates funcionally the same as the black / green. the resistor wire was found to be disconnected and burnt.skinned back resistor wire and inserted it inline with a fused jumper wire to both the ignition switch gray wire. power was finally found on pin 12 of the cluster.cluster was hooked back uptemp wire was attached to the +12v battery (oops) on his part and should have been grounded.key was turned on and the temp needle came up slowaccident was discovered and the temp wire was moved to ground.this part is bad because 12v battery was injected up the temp sensor red wire and up into the cluster. its possible the guages might have been damaged.I told him to turn off the key, and ground the temp wire.Nothing happened. left side of cluster has no lighting but bulbs are good.speedo module has not lighting but LCD display can barely be seen.I told him if he is lucky, the ivr is blow only, otherwise the ivr is blown along with the guages.after some working on it, he must have checked his spare and existing ivr and hooked everything up, smoke came out the top of the speedo module where the bulbs are. goals achieved so far.........12v finally appears on pin 12 of the dirvers side connector.resistance wire can either be bonded to the gray or black/grn wire on the ign switch.I believe both IVR's have been physically verified as not damaged , ie- no open conductors. without a meter, its hard tell.the early metion of smoke coming out of the speakers is something that has me bothered.i propose you pull all fuses except for the ones required to operate the cluster,, work on that circuit and get it operational. I have a gut feeling some other circuit is hampering this problem.BTW everyone,,,,,,,,,, The gray resistance wire was installed recently. the wire was installed on pin 12 of the driver side connector and ran down to the ign switch gray wire. The installer split the insulation on the gray wire and soldered the wire there. not a bad job but indeed an after the fact fix which indicates some serious before hand issues with the car.Car was purchased with the temp and gas guage not working.sometimes you gotta have the car to fix it and in this case i cant get to it. Its over my head to some levels being so far away. there are so many things i would check that the list to burden him with would be so overwhelming. Also,, he does not have a meter but can make one by means of a 6v battery and a test light in order to continuity check conductors. I told him to disconnect his battery when injecting a voltage on one end of a conductor in order to check it with a test light on the other end. this is a decent substitute for a meter. Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #52 – January 24, 2010, 11:06:28 PM If I test ground the gas gauge as Trinom is saying, and it pegs like the temp gauge is doing, then i can rule out the IVR, and the possibility of having bad gauges as Me and Scott discussed earlier. What is really bothering me,, is why it was replaced in the first place, and why the black/green wire is ran to the fuse box and not pin 12, and why the resistor wire was pinned there with an extra ground....... Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #53 – January 26, 2010, 05:28:37 PM Ok, Trinom, I think you had the the temp gauge and gas gauge pins backwards. My gas gauge was pin 13 (yellow and white) and my temp gauge was pin 15 (red and white). But thats besides the fact, I had both gauges grounded out, and both gauges pegged. So, that tells me my Ivr is good, and my gauges aren't blown, correct? Now, when I turn the key on, the gas gauge dosen't read without it being grounded out, and I haven't run the car to let it warm up to correctly test the temp gauge. Also, only half of the cluster lights up, the speedo still dosen't light up. I'm not sure where to check now that I know that the IVr and gauges are good. Relays????? Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #54 – January 27, 2010, 02:12:25 AM you need to make sure you have approx 5v on the output of that ivr. your previous evaluation would lead me to answer yes but we dont want to assume right now. you could have something as simple as a broken flex print run leading up and along the left side of the cluster.Easy enough to fix ,hard to find unless you study the back of the cluster to locate the various test points.With a meter, you could continuity check the runs from the connectors all along the various directions.furthermore, you could wire up two 6v batteries in series and inject power / ground on the correct pins and prob with your test light as well. you could easily trace power up to the inop bulbs ect. Maybe starting off with one 6v battery might be better since we really dont know what is being achieved by the resistor wire feeding power to the cluster other than possibly a current limiter.with your test light and your cluster hooked to the car, prob on the tang sticking out along various bulb sockets to see if you have power along the left side of the cluster.what a cluster "F",, no pun intended:D Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #55 – January 27, 2010, 07:17:13 PM Ok Scott, got a meter. Now, I half-ass know how to use one correctly, but in this situation, I don't think half ass is gonna cut it lol. Now, I know I need to test for continuity, but I'm not sure where to test and where to put the +/- leads, or really which setting to put the meter on. I am getting power to all used bulbs in the cluster, the ivr is getting power, and the gauges are getting power. ( I used my test light to determine this, it was before I got the meter.) Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #56 – January 28, 2010, 12:14:32 AM Page 127 for the 3.8 / 5.0 assigns no wire color to the IVR input power lead on pin 12 of C285.When we visit page 102 for instrumentation illumination, we see that c285 pin 12 is a GY/Y wire color assigned.This matches his design so the gray wire with yellow writting on it is appropriate for the application.Also, Apparently the left side of his cluster hs power going to all the bulbs that will not light up to include the digi display. Now we must find out if pin 14 (black chassis gnd) of the pass side connector C246 has continuity to the cars frame or not.If not, fix itif yes, we are still screwed. Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #57 – January 28, 2010, 05:14:09 PM Well, yes, apparently it does have continuity with the chassis ground....... And I probed various points on the back of the cluster, following the run for pin 12, and it seems to have continuity from pin 12 to the ivr, and from the ivr to the gauges. I also checked the input/output for the ivr, input is about 11.60 volts, and output was a little under 5 volts. Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #58 – January 28, 2010, 05:40:55 PM I skimmed through this, and wanted to offer the following input1. The "extra" black wire about 2" long in your plug is most likely NOT a ground. It is probably actually a 12v feed. I know this, because I am using it to power the gauges in my '87. It is tied into the "dummy" light circuit.2. The smoke and inop heater/blower points to a bad ignition switch/connector, as does your burnt gy/y wire. These cars are known for the contacts heating up and melting the housing and plug. I fixed mine by disassembling the whole deal, cleaning it up, and epoxying it back together (YMMV).3. To properly test the lighting in the dash, would take the meter to each bulb and check for power AND ground. Just because it is gettting +12v, doesnt mean the ground is good at each bulb.-Shane Quote Selected
No power to IVR... Reply #59 – January 28, 2010, 05:49:02 PM Quote1. The "extra" black wire about 2" long in your plug is most likely NOT a ground. It is probably actually a 12v feed. I know this, because I am using it to power the gauges in my '87. It is tied into the "dummy" light circuit.The one in my pin 12 is about 6 inches long, but that probably dosen't matter. I have wanted to try putting 12v to this wire, but since I'm not 100% sure, I don't want to inject 12v into a ground. BTW, is that in pin 12 of your gray dash connector also?Quote2. The smoke and inop heater/blower points to a bad ignition switch/connector, as does your burnt gy/y wire. These cars are known for the contacts heating up and melting the housing and plug. I fixed mine by disassembling the whole deal, cleaning it up, and epoxying it back together (YMMV).All the wiring in the ignition switch connector that needs power is getting it. 11.60 volts. Even the wire that was burnt is still getting 12v.QuoteTo properly test the lighting in the dash, would take the meter to each bulb and check for power AND ground. Just because it is gettting +12v, doesnt mean the ground is good at each bulb.Tested for that as well. They are getting power and ground.... Quote Selected
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