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Topic: Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly (Read 1450 times) previous topic - next topic

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Hey guys, odd request, but if anybody has it you would!  I burnt up a wire the other day, and it's proven hard to find - here's the details:

The best description from my mechanical book states that it's a "Circuit Jumper Wiring Assy", part number 12638.  It's the wire harness that goes from the positive (+) solenoid connector (where the positive battery wire connects) to a plug that connects it with a larger wiring harness. 

It's for a 1987 Cougar 5.0 - but I believe the Mustang 5.0 assembly would work as well.  I would like a new one, but from what I've heard so far it looks like I'm going to have to go used.  I've attached a couple photos for reference.  Thanks for any help!!

Jason

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #1 –
I think those are fusible links...?

I have some, but they're being used :hick:

Check out the threads about folks going to the parts yards if you haven't already, someone should be able to get you what you need pretty easily I'd think :D
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #2 –
so what you are saying is you cant install a new fuse link?

notice the wire size change in the area you are holding the fuse links.  the rubber block is just a splice point,, not the fuse link.  the wire itself is the fuse.  The smaller wires are to open up in the event of catastrophic failure.  normally the open occures at the splices.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #3 –
Look closely at the rubber splice blocks and you'll see the fuse rating on it.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #4 –
Thanks for the info, guys - not much of an electrician and I haven't installed a new fuse link before - the problem area is actually above where I am holding the wires, it caught on fire and you can actually see the bare wire.  Is what you are saying that I can just open up those rubber splice blocks, replace the wire and I'm a-ok??

Thanks for all the info!

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #5 –
yes, follow the diagram below.
just start from the starter relay and work your way backwards using the diagram.
the blocks of rubber are just the splices.  the fuse links are the wires.  its easier for ford to stenciel the block with the fuse link rating rather than the wire.

word of caution on this though,, insure you use the proper type and guage wire. find one of the wires and use a magefying glass and look for the wire type information.  I do not thing your average RHH/RHW is appicable in automotive but i may be wrong.  you do not want to use ?SOL" wire ie- solid.  you want to use "Flex" or "Standed".  "Flex" typically has a higher tolerance to ampacity and if your looking to build a fuse link, its probably not the best choice in my opinion. 

to be extra conservative, you could replicate the fuse links and step down one wire guage smaller than listed.  Evidently what you have caught on fire for a reason, that should be determined prior to moving forward.
If you do this,, please take a razor blade and open up a fuse link block and show everyone its just a splice point,, not a fuse link.

One day maybe all of us can invent a TVSS system for an automotive application.  that would cure all this catchin on fire stuff.  But then again, the MOV's would probably need to be hauled in on a wheel barrow.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #6 –
apparently your fuse link did its job.

now,, if you cut open the rubber block closest to the wire with damage,, you notice three wires join up there at that one point.  those three wires transition to one wire.  this puts a lot of current on that one splice.

i will bet you that if you open up that splice link and compare it to the others, you will find more corrosion or signs of heat there.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #7 –
unplug the connector i have an arrow pointing to.

use your meter and check for continuity (ohms) from the connector up to and beyond the one single splice labled as 2.  (you should have an open or no reading)

use your meter and check for continuity (ohms) from the connector up to the damaged wire point labled as 1.
*you should have a resistance reading.  Keep probing down the wire towards the connector until you have a constant zero ohms.  This tells you where you can cut the wire.

once you have determined where you can cut the damaged wire at the area near point 1, check all your other wires from the connector up to the large single splice point.  THey all should read zero ohms.

Cut all your splice links at the point you determined was zero ohms on the damaged wire near point 1.
Cut the splice link out near point 2

strip all your conductors and splice them together.

done.

what you end up with is a harness approx 3'' shorter now which makes your existing splice links even more effective.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #8 –
careful with that little pink wire pig tailing off the splice link near point 1.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #9 –
while you have that connector unplugged, inspect the male/female terminals for signs of heat or corrosion.  you can extract any given terminal using a small jewlers screwdriver or a paper clip to depress the plastic retainer clip.

good luck,, dont burn the car down.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #11 –
REQUIRED READING>>>>>>>>>>>>>

please read this if you own a 2.3 and consider a 3g swap "death of a tbird"
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ht=fire+melted


ok,, the link isnt working, hope someone else can help find the target so this guy can review lessons learned.

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #13 –
how did you do that?

Needed: Circuit Jumper Wiring Assembly

Reply #14 –
Yeah, so after reading that, I was wondering if someone would like to be hired to fix my wiring harness?!!? lol