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Topic: crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start. (Read 1501 times) previous topic - next topic

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

i have spent the last 3 hours on this site reading everyone engine problems that sound like mine until there car starts and realized you guys really really know your shiznit, so i ask for your help

i have an 87 cougar with an H.O swap from an 89 mustang. car ran great. replaced the heater core. Car ran great turned it off checking for the usual battery drain , car never started the same after that.

Problem- car starts chokes and dies immediately, when I do catch it on the odd chance of starting the only way to keep it running is when I pump the gas pedal. The only off part is when I press the gas it chokes and dies, when I release the pedal quick enough the engine keeps running until it dies again. 

Fuel pump if running and priming, spark is there at the plugs,

It’s like the gas pedal is doing the opposite of what it is suppose to do and I’m lost

Thanks for your time and hope someone can help without throwing a lot of cash at useless parts

----
Also converted to Mas Air

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #1
I'm no expert, but if I recall that is what my '85 and the '87 we have did when the MAP sensors went out. Sounds familiar, just can't recall what exactly the cars were doing to say for sure. Someone will chime in with more help, welcome and stick around. Lots of great stuff in here.
1985 T'Bird 5.0
1987 Cougar 3.8
1992 T'bird Sport 5.0 HO

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #2
I would first run codes, then second I would check the vaspooge lines. Alot of the cars with the electric options run alot of small plastic hoses that break everywhere.

If the hose is off your MAP sensor, it will get really bad mileage and leave black soot everywhere.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #3
got a code reader today and it shot out DTC;95 Fuel Pump Secondary Circut?
anyone have a clue what that means?

did some lookin up on another page and found this

95 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure - PCM to ground,,, so that means i should ????

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #4
does the fuel pump run constanly when you turn the key forward?

code reader = paper clip , just fyi
I find it really odd you have only one code,, almost seems impossible with the condition you have.  I dont think your checking codes correctly.

95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #5
Assuming you are using the '89 Stang MAF computer, code 95 likely means the fuel pump monitor circuit was never wired... No big deal, won't cause a problem other than the code...

If you are running the MAF 'puter, there should be no vacuum connection to the MAP... In a MAF setup, it functions a a baro sensor...

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #6
Just as a thought, how's the fuel pressure regulator?
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #7
i was going to check that tomorrow along with the psi at crank, because i have prime in on position, i have a spare regulator from the original 5L fuel rail, do you think it will work or is it set to a different psi?

i didnt wired the fuel pump monitor circuit when i droped the engine in, i was young and dieing to hear the sound of the engine....

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #8
alright so i got a fuel gauge today and a new fuel filter.
the psi in the rail was sitting at 5-10 psi at prime and crank  i know thats way to low and it also siphons back in between on and run,

so my question is , if it is the fuel regulator, would it be stuck open not alowing it to build some kinda pressure??

 or am i heading to ford for a new mustang fuel pump since the one i but in last year from a jobber seams to not give me the pressure i want.   

or keep feeding it money with a new fuel pump relay and then regulator with a finally of a pump ?

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #9
I would just jump straight to the regulator. If you have 5-10PSI, then the relay is working and something fuel related is not. On my first car, an 86cougar, the regulator made a ton of difference. It drove better and accelerated better after.

After that, I would be looking into the pump.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #10
pump


now look at the 3.8L super charged fuel pumps.  A lot cheaper and deliver 90lph.  Much better than your stock bosch 60lph pump.

If it were the reg, you would have high presure at the rail.

This is only based on odds, meaning i would bet your reg is not "stuck" mostly shut and the pump is good but visa versa.

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #11
If you reused the original, you may have a busted coupling hose from the pump to the tank output... Seems to be a common problem, as the ones supplied for the Stang pumps won't fit the Bird pump hanger... If that's the prob, just get about a foot of gas line hose and install it in a loop so it doesn't kink...

If you want to verify whether the prob is in the tank or the regulator, connect the gauge to the output of the fuel filter... Cycle the ign sw a couple time, should see 100+ psi...

crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #12
Problem solved !!!! burning rubber and loud exhaust once again  it turned out to be the 4" long hose inside the gas tank from the pump to the sending unit

thank you all very much!!  you guys know your shiznit


crank but no start, fuel-spark but no start.

Reply #14
yep problem solved, 4" hose from pump to internal sending unit