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Topic: TPS/Throttle body swap question (The Saga Continues...) (Read 4677 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #30
41 & 91 are for the O2 sensors. Apparently something related to the EGR system is causing your car to run lean. You'd need to figure that out first, and the 41/91 should go away. Whenever you read codes from a scanner, solve the first code and a lot of times the rest of them may go away. Remember that things are related to each other, not necessarily independent. Codes 31 & 34 are difficult...it could be the EGR but it could be other things (cannister purge valve, for example).

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #31
Well I swapped out the EGR.  Immediate noticable difference.  The car seems to breathe/idle better now.  But, (yes, there is a but) its still doing the rough idle/shake only once while in drive problem.  (I really need to come up with a name for it.)  The good news is its not nearly as severe and doesn't cause the car to shake as much. Its more of a vibrate/hesitate now.  Open it up and put your foot into it and it goes away.

I did notice that the wiring going to the TPS and EVP has a spot where wire is exposed.  It looks a tad rusty and a few of the wire strands are broken. I've got a feeling that this might have something to do with the codes about high or low voltage.  But I could be wrong.  Seeings as how both O2s are fairly new (only a year for 1 and the other was a year or so before that) I figure I've about eliminated all options aside from the funky wiring issue.  It looks hard to repair though. I tried my best to at least get some electrical tape around it to keep it from being as exposed, but its where it T's off and its a pain to get to, especially being as far back down in there as it is.  I'm gonna run codes on it again today and see what changing out the EGR did as far as that goes.

As always, you guys are the greatest!
Thanks,
Matt
Fly on Thunderbird, Fly! Operation Buy Back My Tbird or one like it funding: $0


Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #32
Now I'm getting codes 41, 91, and 31.  Oh what fun!!
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Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #33
EEK!! :repost:

Quoting from the service manual "keep alive memory has stored adaptive factors used by the processor to compensate for component tolerances and wear. If emissions related parts are changed during repair the KAM must be cleared! Severe driveability problems can occur since the correction  factor for the old component will be applied to the new component. " The Ford manual recommends removing the negative battery cable for at least 5 minutes. If you replace one component at a time and test run you are going to have to reset the KAM for each component replaced otherwise you'll apply the parms. in memory for the old component. I think the value would be the last valid one before the component failed completely, if it failed completely! Remember the book stressed this procedure when replacing emission related components.

I posted this in another thread I know but thought it might be relevent here too.

Someone here might be able to research and dispute the service manual advice  :bowdown: if you do please include references, I'm only learning as fast as everybody else.

:welder: JP

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #34
I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the canister purge to see what that does, seeing as how its not that expensive of a part and I'm trying to eventually replace everything anyways...  Just to double check though, where exactly is it located?  Is it the part on the back of the strut tower?
Fly on Thunderbird, Fly! Operation Buy Back My Tbird or one like it funding: $0


Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #35
check the vacume lines. I had the same problem, exept I was running WAY to rich instead of lean. I found several holes in my vacume lines, and the vacume line was off of the map sensor.....
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #36
Haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks.  Did yours also start about 5 minutes after start up and clear up after a few minutes and then not start again till you restarted the car?
Fly on Thunderbird, Fly! Operation Buy Back My Tbird or one like it funding: $0


Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #37
Do these cars have a knock sensor? If so, where is it located?
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Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #38
Quote from: Metal Matt
Do these cars have a knock sensor? If so, where is it located?


No knock sensor on the 5.0, HO or SO....

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #39
Still haven't been able to get this fixed. Reset the TPS, changed the EGR, new IAC, I'm guessing the fuel pump is fine because I never have trouble starting and it only does it once each drive. I haven't had the time to tear into it but I'm still trying to figure it out... Codes said it was running lean. I just don't get it. Starts up fine, a few minutes later starts to shake and hesitates, either give it a few minutes or put it in nuetral at a light and gun it, and then it smooths out. Won't do it again until you turn it off and restart it. Anybody got an idea where to go next? I'm really starting to get desperate because its been doing it over a year now and I really miss enjoying driving my car...
Fly on Thunderbird, Fly! Operation Buy Back My Tbird or one like it funding: $0


Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #40
Don't recall if this has been mentioned, but have you check your coolant temperature sensor? I'm pretty sure that if the coolant wasn't getting hot enough or too hot it could be causing some of youre issues. Also if there are any clogs in the coolant system period that could also cause the problem. I'd also check your O2 sensors and the wires attached to them. Just an idea, hopefully it's might help.
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #41
A new lead, excellent! How would I go about checking the temp sensor?
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Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #42
IIRC it's threaded into the thermostat housing, and the plug runs back somewhere else, just follow the wire. As for testing it, I don't have a clue. Stabbing in the dark i'm sure that there's resistance involved. A new "coolant" sensor is about 20 bucks or so, so it's a cheap insurance piece if need be. Another thing i've thought of while typing this is that perhaps your thermostat it's self isn't opening all the way. When was the last time you flushed the coolant system, or possibly changed out the thermostat? Just some vague idea's lofted in your general direction.
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #43
It's been awhile since we heard anything. Did any of the radiator suggestions bear fruit? I don't remember you saying if you had a post code tester or that you went to AutoZone and had the codes checked. Have the codes changed any since your last solution?

At this point one has to wonder if you don't have an electronic problem or a signal problem. Why not pull the ignition module/TFI or whatever you have and have Autozone check it. It should be a free check and you can rule out an intermittent problem that could set the computer in a different operating mode.

Re: TPS/Throttle body swap question

Reply #44
Your coolant temp. sensor is on the intake itself. 
Quote
The ECT sensor is a thermistor, basically a resistor that changes voltage accordingly to temperature changes. It provides a reading that's used by the EEC to change fuel delivery at engine startup to reduce emissions and monitors the temperature of the engine.

Codes 116 to 118 indicate an ECT sensor problem or failure.

Remove the ECT sensor, on 5.0 engines it is located at the front passenger side of the lower intake manifold, on 4.6 engines it is located at the left side of the alternator outside the engine block.

If you see some rust in it clean it by sanding the surface using a fine grit sandpaper, Also check the connector and wiring. Reinstall and check for codes, if some are present change the unit.


This is from:  http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/59.shtml
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!