Crazy idea... June 17, 2009, 11:06:32 PM New fuel pump stop priming on me. Impact switch is fine. Checked relay, I think it's good. New computer didn't solve it either. Checked repinning due to mass air conversion, and it's good except the fuel pump monitor, but I thought it was unnecessary. It primes when I ground the Fuel Pump test port, which only skips over the EEC, correct? The new computer was a reman. Now, unless there is anything else I can check, I have a solution. I could run a wire and switch from the starter solenoid or ignition to the fuel pump or the relay. The only problem is that this would leave it on all the time while running, and I don't know if this would hurt it. I need to get the car moving and running, to see if the engine swap is good.Anyone say boo? Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #1 – June 17, 2009, 11:25:36 PM go to two placesgo to the trunkground the tan light green wire on the fuel pump relayturn on keydoes fuel pump run?if yes, remove ground.turn off keygo to eec self test connground tan light green wiredoes fuel pump runif yes,,,,let us know.otherwise,, note any mods to the fuel pump wiring ect.In addition,you can ground the tan light green wire back in the trunk with a final connection.the only ill results i saw doing this is that it takes double or tripple long for the fuel pump to shut off after you turn the key off.Also,, just so you know,the fuel pump is always running anyway when the car is running,, thats how the car runs,, right? Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #2 – June 17, 2009, 11:55:40 PM I didn't know that. I wasn't sure how it ran I didn't know if the voltage sent to it regulated it to keep from over pressuring. I know some of the older models had a high pressure and a low pressure unit. I wasn't sure if mine has different setting, or if it only on or off.Already did the Self Test Conn test. Pump runs with the key on, but seems to take a bit to get pressure up. Might be due to the wire I'm using or the fact that all the good grounds got covered up when painting the bay.Will try the Relay wire test this weekend, if not tomorrow. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #3 – June 20, 2009, 12:06:18 AM Ok, it didn't work when I grounded the tan/green relay wire. Did prime when I Jumped the relay.I did think it was the relay, but when I put a new one on, it didn't work either. But that one had five pr0ngs instead of four... Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #4 – June 20, 2009, 10:50:30 AM Quote from: tireshredder;278804Ok, it didn't work when I grounded the tan/green relay wire. where? Did prime when I Jumped the relay. how?I did think it was the relay, but when I put a new one on, it didn't work either. But that one had five pr0ngs instead of four...see edits above Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #5 – June 20, 2009, 04:47:33 PM I stripped some of the insulation off right before it runs into the relay, and ran a wire from there to a ground (guessing for the speaker). After that didn't work, I took the relay off, then ran a wire from the yellow to the Pink/black sockets. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #6 – June 20, 2009, 08:14:25 PM When we say the pump primes, we mean with the key on and not starting, the pump runs for one or two seconds then shuts off.That is normal operation.If that doesn't happen but the pump runs continuously with the key on and the pump test grounded at the self test connector, it means that everything in the trunk is OK. The fuel pump relay, the inertia switch, the wires from the front to the back of the car and the pump all OK.And yes it means the EEC is not providing the ground for the fuel pump relay coil.Will the car run with the ground on the pump test keeping the pump running?If so and you still want to haywire something up, I would suggest a switch to apply the ground to pump test port.The only negative I can think of is a safety issue with the pump not shutting off when the engine stops if you are in an accident.The fuel pressure being "slow to come up" I don't think is a electrical problem. How slow are we talking about? A bad check valve at the pump may be letting the gas drain back to the tank. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #7 – June 21, 2009, 12:28:50 AM why are you grounding stuff to a speaker?your car metal is ground,,,,,,,,,,, you just used a radio ground wire as a ground........why did you skin the insulation on the tan light green wire at the fuel pump relay?you could have back probed the connector and made contact to the actual connector crimp in there.nevermind my questions above,, its just me babbling:DYou are not really coming back with answers to the question. Avoid pr0nouns and such like "it, that, this , that" ect because in my book these words can lead to assumptions based on you thinking I may know what you are talking about.Two tests were described, one up at the self test connector and one for the trunk.From now on, when we say to ground something, we mean "back prob the connector to make contact and then connect the other end to the physical body of the car on bare metal,,not some random black wire that could be a round. A ground is supplied back in the trunk near the trunk hinge, perhaps thats the ground you spoke of .So,,,,the test failed in the trunk?the test passed up at the eec self test connector?If so,, nearly impossible. If the relay were the fault, it would fail both of your tests. If the relay is good, you should pass both tests and then we would ask you to ground the tan light green wire on the physical computer connector on pin 22.When this test passed, you would have a bad eecIf this test failed, you would have been told the tan light green wiring is broken from the eec to the fuel pump relay.So,, did the test pass in the trunk and up at the eec self test connector? Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #8 – June 21, 2009, 11:10:14 PM Sorry about the ambiguity. I'm not the best with words.I ran both the EEC Test and the Relay Test. Both caused the fuel pump to run. Tried the EEC in my brother's Mustang, and it...er, the Mustang :D, fired right up. So I'm guessing the T/LG wire is fault. The only other thing I could think of that might have something to do with not running the Fuel pump monitor wire. But I remember Vinnie said it is not needed in another thread.Also, the car will not run with the pump. I do hear a gurgling sound, and I'm guessing that's just fuel returning to the tank, because it comes from the back of the car. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #9 – June 22, 2009, 02:10:21 AM Quote from: tireshredder;279114Sorry about the ambiguity. I'm not the best with words.I ran both the EEC Test and the Relay Test. Both caused the fuel pump to run. Tried the EEC in my brother's Mustang, and it...er, the Mustang :D, fired right up. So I'm guessing the T/LG wire is fault.The pump runs for only 2 seconds when it "primes". Are you sure this is not happening???In the red circled area of jcassidy's diagram, the splice S551 is under the left side of the dash. Behind the glove box. Are you sure you didn't cut the wire to EEC pin 22?Quote The only other thing I could think of that might have something to do with not running the Fuel pump monitor wire. But I remember Vinnie said it is not needed in another thread.Vinnie is right.QuoteAlso, the car will not run with the pump. I do hear a gurgling sound, and I'm guessing that's just fuel returning to the tank, because it comes from the back of the car.If the EEC not being able to run the pump were your only problem, the car should run when you force the pump on with the test connector jumper.Maybe I should ask where you are grounding the test connector?Gurgling? I hope you are not out of gas. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #10 – June 22, 2009, 09:42:50 AM Quote from: tireshredder;279114Sorry about the ambiguity. I'm not the best with words.I ran both the EEC Test and the Relay Test. Both caused the fuel pump to run. Tried the EEC in my brother's Mustang, and it...er, the Mustang :D, fired right up. .okyou passed both tests,The car fired up with another EEC, problem appears to be the EEC.The tan / light green wire proved out on both tests so there isnt a connection problem.the gurgling at the tank is just the fuel returning to the tank. it just simply flows back to the tank and drops back in from the top and splashes the fuel around.there is only one way the eec's control over igniting the relay can be damage. Usually the eec gets damaged during the time when people are yet unaware of how sensitive this circuit is and power is applied to the wrong wire to try and manipulate the pump.Even with the defective eec, you should be able to start and run the car by grounding the tan light green wire at the F/P relay in the trunk.when turning off the car, the only adverse effect is the fuel pump will not shut off for a few seconds. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #11 – June 22, 2009, 05:57:05 PM No, EEC is fine. We put the one I was trying to use in the Tbird into the Mustang and the Mustang ran fine. So the EEC checks out.And I'm sure its not priming. When I do the test, it runs for as long as the key is on. When I don't have a jumper wire in place, nothing happens when I turn the keys. Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #13 – June 22, 2009, 11:53:46 PM what an x-files moment you got here.you have proven the tan light green wire is providing a path from the self test connecter (where you pull codes from) and as well, from the trunk because after grounding the tan light green in both places, the fuel pump came on.one thing remains.please ground the tan light green wire at the EEC connector itself.unplug the eec connector using a 10mm socket.ground (to bare metal chassis) pin 22 of the eec.turn on key and see if the pump comes on.if not,run a temp jumper wire from the eec connector pin 22 back to the tan light green wire of the fuel pump relay.turn on keylistenif the pump runs, you have a broken wire from the eec to the splice mentioned by softtouch and shown on the diagram as "S 551"with the eec connector unplugged, the eec control relay will still deliver power through the inertia switch and it awaits a ground from the EEC.While you are at it,,,,,,,,,with the key on, see if you have 12v power at pin 1 of the eec connector black / orange wire.I am starting to think you may have a problem with a fuse link per the diagram leading to pin 1 of the eec.this would explain why you can ignite the fuel pump in both places but not as a stand alone unit.been messing with the alternator or starter solenoid wiring lately? or perhaps a fuse link wire is not connected to the starter relay? Quote Selected
Crazy idea... Reply #14 – June 23, 2009, 12:06:45 AM this has been going on for a while eh?http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=24255&page=2 Quote Selected
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