Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Topic: Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. (Read 7748 times) previous topic - next topic

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #45 – June 17, 2009, 01:29:58 AM

glad your running,,hope it cures the issue.

post up when your ready to look at the gas guage.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #46 – June 17, 2009, 10:32:41 PM

Well, I was hoping that was it...I drove all the way home from work..I Opened her up more than one time .. It drove fine.. All the throttle response I could ever want...20 miles.... I pulled on to my exit... Stopped at the stop sign ...... Pulled out (WOT).... It wasn't as apparent..... but, at (WOT) you could tell it was slightly hesitant... backed off to 7/8 throttle she cleared up and went on pulling hard.... I know ... I know.... fuel pressure test 2nd stage... I'm trying to figure out how to make the hose longer for my gauge and still be able to use the fittings.... PLus the beltless test as yall spoke of.. I've already got the pressure regulator and throttle body gasket set..... 210,000 miles and 22 yrs. later it's probably time for them to be changed.... One other question... When I installed the distributor...And set the timing When the timing was set the tfi module was a good bit closer to the radiator hose than it was... Is there anyway to adjust the distibutor body to where it'll be farther away from the r-hose? I had friend to suggest to move the body of the dizzy where I want it... then just move the wires around on the cap.... Is this possible?

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #47 – June 17, 2009, 11:07:26 PM

you can move the body of the dizzy anywhere you want.

you can make any post on the dist cap cyl 1.

yes to what your friend said.

Ill bet your dizzy is off one tooth due to mileage on the timing chain. The cam isnt exactly oriented to the crank exactly right after 10 of thousands of miles. thats where timing adjustment comes in.

I would do the following.........
note the rotation of the crank while cranking
stuff toilet paper in cyl 1 plug hole
bump engine until paper pops out
feel for piston using a screw driver
use breaker bar to continue rotating engine until..........
the pointer on the harmonic is dead on "0"
during this time, the piston was coming up to TDC

now remove the dizzy cap
it should be pointing to the number 1 spark plug wire post.

if its not,,,,,
make a mark from you dizzy to the intake with a marker
make a mark on the top part of the exterior of the dizzy housing where number 1 plug post is positioned.
dont mark the cap,, mark the side of the dizzy.
remove dizzy hold down
wiggle up dizzy just enough to clear o- ring plus a wee bit more
you should always have your hand on the rotor button while lifting
soon the rotor is able to move left or right freely, you can feel it catch the cam gear.
It is also very willing to drop into the spot you removed it from
Keeping how far up you lift to a minimum prevents fully extracting the oil pump shaft as well so its not disconnecting from pump.
just reseat the dizzy forward or back a tooth.
If is a good idea to have a mental head start on which direction you want to drop the dizzy either forward or back.
If the dizzy does not want to drop fully into a desired gear slot on the cam, manually move the crank left or right to manipulate that location.
insure that your crank on TDC "zero" agrees with where the rotor button points when your done.
adjust your base to intake mark
eyeball dizzy cap and eyeball if rotor button is now pointing more directly to number 1 plug wire post.
this may take a couple of re run tries, but its just the nature of the beast.
When you spin a crank on a fresh built motor, the cam almost instantly follows the crank.

before you do all of this,, manually turn your crank till the pointer pointer is at zero.
Rotate crank in its normal direction as if the starter were turning it.

now slowly rotate crank the opposite direction
move until you just feel it get hard to do move
this is the cam shaft finally taking hold by you rotating the crank via the chain.
now stop
read what the pointer is pointing to in degrees.

thats a pretty good guage on timing chain slack.

lets see what that comes out to be.

Slack isnt realy that big of a deal, can be compensated for up at the distributor. Of course to much wear is bad.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #48 – June 17, 2009, 11:17:17 PM

The timing chain is new.. it's only 3-4 mths old..I changed it when I did the water pump... still had factory plastic coated gear and timing chain on the car....

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #49 – June 17, 2009, 11:39:46 PM

then you should have awsome results in checking to see if your off a tooth then.

it pays to take pics of how things were before taking it apart. Helps me remember bolts and brakets ect.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #50 – June 18, 2009, 01:34:46 AM

You don't need to extend the gauge, just pull the hood off and use alittle duct tape to hold it up.

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Reply #51 – June 18, 2009, 09:33:18 AM

extender hose just like the shop manual says.

I have a store bought fuel pres guage and a home made setup.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #52 – June 18, 2009, 09:40:09 PM

Ok .... Just ran fuel pressure test part 2..... Took wife to store... the fuel pressure when my foot was mid throttle was around 35-40psi.. (wot) 30-32psi... While she was in the store... I stayed in the car and left it Idling...it stayed at 32psi....It idled like that for approx. 20-25 minutes... When she came out we took a longer way home so I could really punish the throttle on the hwy. 2nd gear mid throttle 35-40psi... Wot she dropped to 20psi.. In drive same result... I left it in drive all the way up the hwy.. to keep rpm's up... wot fuel pressure would drop to 20psi.. and a couple of time less than that.... Like I've said it seems the longer it ran the worse it got.... When I left work today.. I had to go pick up something... so I had to go 10 mile's out of the way..... So roughly I drove 30 miles home today.. and once again it started cutting out 10 miles from home...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #53 – June 18, 2009, 10:08:26 PM

Unfortunately you have a fuel supply problem... It should hold 39psi at WOT, for as long as you have the gonads to to keep the pedal on the floor... Probably your 1 1/2 year old pump, that sucks...

Any chance the tank vent is restricted and you are creating a vacuum in the tank??? If this is the issue, you should get a large swooosh when you loosen the gas cap when you are having the problem... Of course if that was the case, your problem would be instantly fixed for a little while...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #54 – June 18, 2009, 10:13:05 PM

I haven't noticed a swoosh...but, I can can try that next.. I do have a 20 mile drive in the morning.... My wife is about to spazz..... All I can do is replace one thing at a time til it's all new again... HA HA..

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #55 – June 18, 2009, 10:41:26 PM

What's the chances that the fuel pressure regulator is going bad..... 22yrs. old 210,000 miles.. I have a new one ready for installation.. just haven't had the time to do it..... what's it's purpose anyway? So the injectors don't have to much fuel?

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #56 – June 18, 2009, 10:42:47 PM

I'm sorry you've sunk money in the dist, but with as much play in the shaft as it had, it was shot anyway...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #57 – June 18, 2009, 10:44:48 PM

It needed it...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #58 – June 18, 2009, 10:52:06 PM

The FP regulator compensates for changes in manifold vacuum so there is a constant supply of fuel at the injector tip... When manifold vac is high(idling) it tends to help "suck" the fuel out of the injectors, so pressure is decreased... At WOT when vac is low there is more pressure avail(this is basically a FYI so may have no bearing on your problem)...

Now, at WOT the regulator should bypass all pressure in excess of 39psi back to the tank... Regulator problems are usually a internal restriction, which results in high pressure, but no doubt could cause a pressure loss... Since you have one, change it, couldn't hurt...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #59 – June 18, 2009, 11:08:20 PM

Thanks I'll get it done...