Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #15 – June 12, 2009, 11:54:57 PM the tfi module is new..It's not an ignition issue.. I did go out and change the fuel filter again... Tested the fuel press after I reprimed the system. Switch on engine off 40lbs. engine running 32lbs. I've got a 20 mile drive in the morning .... I'll see if the filter helped .... but. I know probably didn't... It didn't help the last time I changed it.... But I gotta try something.... Before I go nuts... Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #16 – June 13, 2009, 01:47:10 AM testing the fp with the car sitting there is just part one of two tests.you are not completely simulating the problem.drive the car with the guage taped to the windshield and record the lowest presure you can see.example for an aod transmission- watch fuel presure drop as each gear tops.anythign lower than 20psi would concern me. This is test the fuel delivery under a load. its also a shop manual test.I am not saying your fuel delivery is bad, just commenting. I have read your original post a couple of times to get my head around what you have going on.-------------------------------I am interested in this problem but it is going to help you you explain in a little more detail what you call 'cutting out"while in drivewhile in parkas soon as you shif to d or what.Once upon a time i had a symptom of my engine going low on rpm and cutting out shifting from P to R or D.Later i ran the car without a belt and threw it in reverse and the car stayed running.root cause failure was = after car warmed up, friction to the faulty shaft bearings of the smog pump was nearly locking up the smog pully.This inerperted as more load demaind on the engine and the idle would not track and keep the car running right. If it did run at all the r's were so low it would darn near cut off.everything was fine on on a bone cold motor. Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #17 – June 13, 2009, 06:59:52 AM I hear ya.. The longer I drive it in one hot day the worse it gets... you can't wind through the gears anymore.. when the motor is cool the engine starts cutting out between 2500 & 3000 rpm.In any gear.. After a 20 mile drive (to work or from work) It's around 2200rpm to 2000rpm that it starts cutting out.. Now on my way home from work which is hotter than it was in the mornings. By the time I get home it's down around 2000/ 1800 rpm.when it starts doing the cutting back.. Somedays it's less than 1800 rpm.... Now when the car is good and hot from that drive I can sit with it in park and slow rev the throttle and attain 4000/4500 rpm before it starts cutting out... but when I stomp the throttle and hold it to the floor. by the time my foot hits the floor @ wot it's already cutting out... Thats when it has threw the 77 code when running eoer test. There is someday"s that I feel as if I have no pedal at all.. Could my tank not be venting. Could my gas cap be bad? Or the vent in the tank? Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #18 – June 13, 2009, 01:06:56 PM usually fuel pumps are come and go bad / good. I have had the one that "was going bad" and was able to troubleshoot it to be the problem but i had to be driving and watchng the fp.your symptoms dont sound fuel realated but the final test needs done.You say the spark is fine, (nice and bluish white). Best checked in darker situations.get it to start doing the problem again but have a pry bar ready to take the belt off. if you think you can scoot down the road couple hundred feet and get back home , it would be a good test to see if that helps. I hope it does , something is going foul more when the engine is hot.Also, for shiznit and grins, remove your air charge temp sensor and get the following readings with your meter.Clean off the little thermal couple that hangs in the center. If it is covered with a film of grease or soot, it can not change resistance properly to signal the eec.----------------------ACT sensor test ,,,feeds the computerResistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)at 50degF=58K ohmsat 65degF=40K ohmsat 180degF=3.6K ohmsat 220degF=1.8K ohms============================= Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #19 – June 13, 2009, 06:37:48 PM well check this out...I may be eating crow...It might just be an ignition problem....I replaced the fuel filter last night .... still cutting out this morning on my 20 mile drive to greenville sc... then I drove another 15 miles to my final destination.. where the car sat for 6 1/2 hours.. so everything had a chance to cool off somewhat before my trip back home... on the way back home it started cutting out real bad.I had almost no throttle response it was cutting out so bad.... It got to the point where it just cut off... I popped the hood and started checking things...........the first thing I did was pull the rubber boot off the distributor (thinking check something different for a change) popped the clips off and looked in the cap...nothing unusual a little graphite dust.put it back on started the car again.... it revved up all the way so I got back in and took off... And once again the longer I drove the worse it got....so I was able to make it to autozone which is about 10 miles from home.... Where I usually get my parts anyway... I was watching the car idle something told to touch the wires at the tfi module.. I just kind of worked them back and forth and when I did this several times the engine died. Went to restart engine wouldn't fire . wiggled the wires again the engine started... I finally got curious and unplugged the connector all the dielectric grease I put on this connector 3 months ago was completely dried up and hard as a rock... Somethings not right..could there be a negative wire or ground that would cause the distributor to get so hot it would dry up dielectric grease? ok ... put new grease on it started the car up wiggled the wires... the engine died again.. So is there a loose wire in the connector? could the distributor be getting so hot that it's causing the pins in the tfi module to become loose? Ok yall.... yall the experts.... Yall tell me.... I'm eating crow tonight..... Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #20 – June 13, 2009, 09:09:55 PM Problem may well be the PIP inside the dist, especially since you said it was generally OK in cold weather... Best to sub a known good dist for this one... Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #21 – June 13, 2009, 10:44:21 PM Hey Scott, can you tell us more about your input on the TPS adjustment? I always read on mustang sites (this being 5.0 HO settings) that you wanted it as close to 1 volt as possible without actually hitting 1 volt or above. Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #22 – June 13, 2009, 11:22:51 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;277507Problem may well be the PIP inside the dist, especially since you said it was generally OK in cold weather... Best to sub a known good dist for this one...why go thru the effort of substituting a known good dizzy when the PIP sensor is less than 20 bucks and can basically be changed on the car(or if you yank the dist. like i did it took less than an hour).temporarily rotating the distributor, or more specifically the TFI away from the radiator hose made little difference. just to see if the TFI was getting heat soaked mind you, i dont think on his 5.0 thats an issue though.but, if it was his PIP sensor he should still be getting a code for it.as for the wiggle test you did on the TFI wires you might want to look into that. Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #23 – June 14, 2009, 12:00:02 AM Who is scott? Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #24 – June 14, 2009, 12:03:10 AM I did get two codes ... I just happen to have my jumper in my pocket to retrieve codes.. code 14 ..... code 18.... Could the wires in the (tfi) connector bad? I mean ford was kind of known for unreliable connectors back in the 80's... Can I change the pip without pulling the distributor? Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #25 – June 14, 2009, 12:36:44 AM Instead Of changing the pip sensor... Wouldn't it be better if I just replaced the distributor ... you have to remember this car has 210,000 miles on it and 98% of this car still has original parts in it.... I just changed the original plastic coated timing chain and gears a few months ago... Sometimes your better to replace stuff instead of repairing stuff.. Plus... Did the 5.0 cougars come with cast iron gear on the distributor... or a steel gear ? "Also, for shiznit and grins, remove your air charge temp sensor and get the following readings with your meter." I replaced the act sensor a few months ago..... Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #26 – June 14, 2009, 12:56:32 AM Quote from: jcassity;277363What you do is run a chainsaw file up in the holes to oblong them. rotate tps with bolts in and dial in something as low as possible around .6 - .9 vdcYou can lay a dozen new TPS's on the counter and check the resistance from the black to orange,,, all will read way off from one another. The total resistance of the black to org wire is the key to a finer signal back to the eec (in my thinking process).All my OEM TPS sensors total resistance are well above 4.7kohms while the aftermarket ones I have range from 4.2k up to 4.6.Also, check for a nice blue spark tonight,, if you dont have a whitish blue spark with no orange,, the the stator or hall effect sensor is good inside the dizzy as well as the TFI. WE talked about the Hall Effect before.Scott is the guy talking about the TPS settings... Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #27 – June 14, 2009, 04:20:06 AM Quote from: odie12372;277495well check this out...I may be eating crow...It might just be an ignition problem....I replaced the fuel filter last night .... still cutting out this morning on my 20 mile drive to greenville sc... then I drove another 15 miles to my final destination.. where the car sat for 6 1/2 hours.. so everything had a chance to cool off somewhat before my trip back home... on the way back home it started cutting out real bad.I had almost no throttle response it was cutting out so bad.... It got to the point where it just cut off... I popped the hood and started checking things...........the first thing I did was pull the rubber boot off the distributor (thinking check something different for a change) popped the clips off and looked in the cap...nothing unusual a little graphite dust.put it back on started the car again.... it revved up all the way so I got back in and took off... And once again the longer I drove the worse it got....so I was able to make it to autozone which is about 10 miles from home.... Where I usually get my parts anyway... I was watching the car idle something told to touch the wires at the tfi module.. I just kind of worked them back and forth and when I did this several times the engine died. Went to restart engine wouldn't fire . wiggled the wires again the engine started... I finally got curious and unplugged the connector all the dielectric grease I put on this connector 3 months ago was completely dried up and hard as a rock... Somethings not right..could there be a negative wire or ground that would cause the distributor to get so hot it would dry up dielectric grease? ok ... put new grease on it started the car up wiggled the wires... the engine died again.. So is there a loose wire in the connector? could the distributor be getting so hot that it's causing the pins in the tfi module to become loose? Ok yall.... yall the experts.... Yall tell me.... I'm eating crow tonight.....well,,,,,,,,just so you know, i had to figure out why this stator went bad. I decided to post a thread here and as whats inside that big curved piece of smooshy ruberish plastic.what i found was that the black wire was soldered to the metal mounting and acts as a heat sync and a ref ground. In the pic below there was much corrosion that appeared to be associated with heat due to the metal discoloration on the exposed side. The reason for my post is to also let you know that the black wire solder job was bad and the black wire was only attached by 2 of the 15 or so strands. This stator was only a few weeks old.could still be the stator. Remember your tfi plugs into this thing so the TFI and the stator work together. It seems you are saying the wires are jacked. I would get a magnifying glass and fiddle inside the TFI conn with a jewlers screwdriver and mess with the contacts so they grab the tfi better. Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #28 – June 14, 2009, 04:33:57 AM Quote from: booksix;277522Hey Scott, can you tell us more about your input on the TPS adjustment? I always read on mustang sites (this being 5.0 HO settings) that you wanted it as close to 1 volt as possible without actually hitting 1 volt or above.I dont have an answer,,,,,,,but tom might.what i do know is that if i simply mount a tps per is existing holes, then turn on my key, i always have over a volt. THis means i have less voltage drop across the TPS when I apply WOT position at the trottle body.so......I file the holes in the correct direction so you can rotate the tps ccw and button it down. When i do mine, I dial in the least voltage that achieves the max at WOT. On thing that Seek was saying that I dont agree with is the TPS coming with oval holes already. At one time the TPS had both holes oval so that you can dial in the voltage. If anything, the tps holes are too large for the bolt.For many years, all your aftermarket TPS has one round and one oval. WHat the hell good does that do anyone. I understand what he meant though and he is dead on. Most people just put em on and run which works as wel. Im not technical in how much power loss or pulsewidth modulation is lost when the tps max voltage isnt achieved as it is proportional to the gas pedal location. Quote Selected
Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. Reply #29 – June 14, 2009, 08:01:53 AM Quote from: booksix;277522Hey Scott, can you tell us more about your input on the TPS adjustment? I always read on mustang sites (this being 5.0 HO settings) that you wanted it as close to 1 volt as possible without actually hitting 1 volt or above.I've set the TPS voltage everywhere but upside down and it isn't critical at all... Anything from .85v to .95v is fine(I've run as low as .55v with no issues)... The idea is to get the EEC in the acceleration mode as quickly as possible, but if you can tell the difference in 1 or 2* of throttle body shaft rotation, your ass is more sensitive than mine(or the time slips from the drag strip)...TPS or fuel ain't likely the problem, I'm betting it's iginition...Quote from: Ductape91;277534why go thru the effort of substituting a known good dizzy when the PIP sensor is less than 20 bucks and can basically be changed on the car(or if you yank the dist. like i did it took less than an hour).Please explain the process of changing the PIP with the dist in the car... Quote Selected
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