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Topic: Pics of my (dirty) bird (Read 2324 times) previous topic - next topic

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #15
Quote from: Ifixyawata;271602
How do you plan to refinish the 'flakes?  In your own patented method?  (which I've used with great success)?  Just clear over the aluminum with black accents?
I will be using my patented method, but with a twist. Instead of clearcoat and black I'm doing them white and gunmetal, since I plan on painting the lower part of the car gunmetal once the trim's on. I love white wheels on a white car, and it's a decidedly 80's retro look, which is pretty much what I'm going for anyway.
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;271628
The Bird is looking good... You gonna but the Fire Chicken back on the hood??? :hick: That ought to stir up some comments... :D

Cripes, the Firechicken was on it when I bought it, I took it off the day I bought it, and I still haven't lived it down :punchballs: I do have some NOS Volvo emblems in the garage, maybe I'll shag everyone up and put those on :mullet:

Quote
If the speed sensor is still connected to the EEC, your stalling problem may be normal, have to remember the SO EEC isn't expecting to see sudden RPM drops... With the AOD you'd have to pull it to low and then throw it into neutral to duplicate down shifting with a manual... I'd check base idle and set to 600 RPMs with the IAC disconnected and try that...

BTW don't really know about the SO EEC, but with the speed sensor connected, a HO MAF EEC will hold the RPMs to approx 1200 until the vehicle completely stops... This includes both auto and manual versions I've tried...
That's certainly not a bad idea. The EEC doesn't need to know how fast I'm going anyway. I don't care about the speed limiter (I have little use to drive over 110 anyway, the car certainly wouldn't reach that in the 1/4) so it's still connected, but if it's causing my grief, or if there's even the remotest chance it's causing my grief, I can do without it. I will try cutting that wire at the EEC connector (I need to cut it there, because I've got other things in the car that rely on it, including the tripminder and the overhead console). I'll also try setting the base idle at 600RPM as you mentioned.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #16
No, no, no... Guess I wasn't as clear as I should have been, wasn't suggesting it should be disconnected... If it is disconnected, the EEC has no Idea the car is in motion, and stalling is a possibility with quick throttle closure at high RPM... If the car is moving, idle should hold to approx 1200 RPM then settle to normal idle as the car stops...The Mustang rags have said for years that disconnecting the speed sensor will cause stalling(but I never had a problem with my 5 speed GT and it didn't even have a speed senso)...

Again I don't know if the "idle up" feature of the MAF EECs are included in the SD EEC(87 EECs doesn't have a SC input, but '88s do)... Easy enough to tell, let it coast out of gear and see where the idle is...

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #17
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;271675
I will be using my patented method, but with a twist. Instead of clearcoat and black I'm doing them white and gunmetal, since I plan on painting the lower part of the car gunmetal once the trim's on. I love white wheels on a white car, and it's a decidedly 80's retro look, which is pretty much what I'm going for anyway.



Sweet! You answered my next question. Cannot wait to see how those turn out.  Have you considered completely 'whiting out' the car?  For example window trim? Door Handles? (I think those are the only non-white parts left._

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #18
Car looks good. You should like the Snowflakes when they are done. When I put mine on the handeling went up 100% over the stock 14s. Then again you already have 10 holes so you may not see much of an improvement.

Quote from: V8Demon;271560
Wish my hood lined up flush in the back near the window like yours.....It's time for new springs on mine.  No amount of adjustment will make it go down.


My passenger side spring is like that. If you find some springs let me know :hick:
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #19
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;271695
No, no, no... Guess I wasn't as clear as I should have been, wasn't suggesting it should be disconnected... If it is disconnected, the EEC has no Idea the car is in motion, and stalling is a possibility with quick throttle closure at high RPM... If the car is moving, idle should hold to approx 1200 RPM then settle to normal idle as the car stops...The Mustang rags have said for years that disconnecting the speed sensor will cause stalling(but I never had a problem with my 5 speed GT and it didn't even have a speed senso)...

Again I don't know if the "idle up" feature of the MAF EECs are included in the SD EEC(87 EECs doesn't have a SC input, but '88s do)... Easy enough to tell, let it coast out of gear and see where the idle is...

Ahh, I see. Actually, when I think about it, the VSS being connected can't be the issue anyway, because I drove about 80 of those 100 miles with the VSS not not working at all. There was no difference with the new one installed anyway. Now I'm leaning back toward the IAC, but I will definitely do that idle adustment thing before changing anything

Quote from: Ifixyawata;271728
Sweet! You answered my next question. Cannot wait to see how those turn out.  Have you considered completely 'whiting out' the car?  For example window trim? Door Handles? (I think those are the only non-white parts left._

I thought about it, briefly, but I've never been a fan of that look. Any time I've seen cars done like that the first thought in my mind was "Oh yeah, he couldn't be bothered taping it so he painted over everything". I WAS going to paint the mirrors white, but didn't because I was in a hurry to get them back on and it was too cold to paint at the time :hick: Now I think about it, it's probably better to leave them black, as every stone chip would have really stood out with them white.

Quote from: thunderjet302;271745
Car looks good. You should like the Snowflakes when they are done. When I put mine on the handeling went up 100% over the stock 14s. Then again you already have 10 holes so you may not see much of an improvement.
I know I noticed a huge difference between the 14's and 15's, but I'm not expecting much difference with the 16's because the actual tire width and sidewall height will not be changing (it's got 225/60R15's on it now, and will be getting 225/60R16's). Eventually I'd like to bump the size of the rears up, say, to 275/50R16, which would be pretty much the same height as the 225/60R16's but much wider

I can relate to the hood hinges, too. My T-Bird's hinges are fine but my first and second cars, both second generation Firebirds, had bad hinges. They're known for that problem - looked like welfare cowl induction
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #20
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;271628
BTW don't really know about the SO EEC, but with the speed sensor connected, a HO MAF EEC will hold the RPMs to approx 1200 until the vehicle completely stops... This includes both auto and manual versions I've tried...

I've never heard or seen this? I've used the stock A9P code, along with an A9L modified base with no hanging idle rpm's. I'm not using a stick but my rpm's fall at the same pace whether I'm at 10mph or 2mph if I'm in the same gear (2nd). I haven't seen such a setting anywhere in Binary Editor either but I also haven't specifically looked. Cold startup it only keeps a high rpm for about 5 seconds before dropping to ~750 in open loop/625 warm closed.

Edit:
Here is a listing of all RPM-scalars available in the GUF1-Rev.43z definition file:
CLICK ME
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #21
All I can say it happens in my car with both A9P & A9L computers... Of course I have to put the AOD in neutral since I run a automatic... I do keep the idle up around 800 in gear(prob 950 out) but the idle stays higher as long as the car is moving...

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #22
Either way, I'm interested in hearing more. Any idea of a place where this was talked about online?

Edit:
I will say that I've heard of an EEC holding an rpm for a second when it falls too quick (like sudden stops) in order to help prevent it from stalling out but not be noticeable under normal driving conditions. I think this was only with the automatic EEC's. Beyond this, I had an issue with a hanging idle when the EEC wasn't going into closed loop and sticking in open. Once this was fixed, the rpm's dropped with the speed/gear as you would assume they would mathematically. The above issue did not show up in codes although you would think it would...the tuning software is what showed me I was stuck in open loop. I got 27mpg in open loop, 30+ in closed after it was taken care of so it wasn't like the vehicle ran bad or was undriveable during any of this. Lastly, my engine is setup (properly) where the engine will NOT run with the IAC disconnected, just barely. I was surprised to find out that this is the original design and how to properly adjust the throttle body butterfly screw isn't what is spread by people out there as fact (along with the whole "adjust your tps voltage" thing). I'm using a stock HO cam though so I can stick with the proper way, unlike all the people with more aggressive ones.

This happened with both the HO speed density and mass air computers. I don't recall what the stock EEC did as that was years ago and on an old worn out motor/transmission.

I would look at scalars RPMCTL, IDRPMH, and ISLBND - It's hard to tell exactly what the last two are or when they're used but they could account for a hanging idle. I will also note that my EEC shows 625rpm while my stock tach is up in the vicinity of ~700. The stock ones are very far from accurate. According to the RPMCRL scalar, the IAC isn't capable of adjusting the rpm's much over stock base idle so I'm still not sure where 1200 comes from.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #23
Ok, I got the stalling problem solved. First, because it was easiest to do, I tried the TPS off the Mustang intake and it immedately turned the check engine light on. I reinstalled the T-Bird TPS and the light went back off. I took the IAC off and took it apart, gave it a soaking in combustion chamber cleaner, and cleaned it all up. A quick test drive showed no difference. After that I did as Tom suggested and adjusted the idle to ~600 RPM (according to the tach, so by no means scientific) with the IAC installed but not connected. When I plugged the IAC back in the idle went up to 1000RPM, which is a bit high, but I can live with it if it prevents that ed stalling. Unexpectedly losing power steering in a low speed turn can be quite unnerving.

Took it for a drive, downshifted rather aggressively several times (IE stood the car on its nose) to try to get the car to stall, and it would not. It would appear the problem is solved. Now the only issue is that the RPM's hang at about 2000RPM when shifting. I can live with that, too, though (many new cars do that in the name of emissions anyway). It'll have to suffice until I get the HO conversion done, and get my DA1 EEC installed, which will know how to deal with a standard tranny...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #24
The bird looks good Thunder!!!!!............ Now you gotta get the outside to match the inside!!!!
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Just enjoyin the ride!!!!

Pics of my (dirty) bird

Reply #25
Well if the idle hangs high enough to be annoying, you could back it down a bit... Could be say 550 is the sweet spot where it doesn't stall and idle isn't high between gears... May want to just drive it though, it may need to relearn idle while car is moving...

BTW I tried my Lightning this evening and it idles at 1100 in neutral, while truck is moving... As soon as it stops, idle drops to 850 by the tach, but I don't think it's actually idling that high... Where ever it is I'm leaving it alone, as it runs great and has perfect manners in traffic...