5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Topic: 5.0 with an Eaton M90? (Read 8232 times) previous topic - next topic

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #15 – February 21, 2009, 01:18:59 AM

Quote from: CougarSE;257877

From what I hear an m90 can do 9~psi or so on a 5.0. Thats more than a $2000 elcheapo supercharger kit is going to get you.

To repeat a story .. a few years Hot Rod did a blower comparison and included one turbo. The turbo outperformed every one of the blowers.

Two junkyard T3s (or IHIs!) off TCs would have done a much better job with less effort and less money, esp if he's going to do his own fab work.

Aside from that, as previously mentioned, that blower is too small for the original application, not to mention a larger motor.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #16 – February 21, 2009, 10:07:49 AM

Quote from: t3skidoo;257938

Um, Yeaaaah.....

8 psi from a real instacharger on an aluminum headed 306 http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=779495

Kits originally sold as 6 psi or 9 psi kits.

:flame:

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #17 – February 21, 2009, 10:23:25 AM

Be interesting to fab up a sheet metal intake and mount the M90 on top where God intended. 'Course that'd probably require DIS...

I've often thought about M90's (they're plentiful enough on B-O-P fullsize cars) but I tend to think two IHI's or two T3's would be easier to do and make more power (without the parasitic drag that a supercharger has). If an IHI can support 190 horses on a stock 2.3t two of them should be able to support 400 or so horses on a 5.0...

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #18 – February 21, 2009, 10:52:47 AM

theres a guy on stangnet named jim bowy he has a red 87 lx he made his everything check it out that pic at the beginning of this thread is his car the first time around

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #19 – February 21, 2009, 11:23:05 AM

Quote from: Thunder Chicken;257959

Be interesting to fab up a sheet metal intake and mount the M90 on top where God intended. 'Course that'd probably require DIS...

I've often thought about M90's (they're plentiful enough on B-O-P fullsize cars) but I tend to think two IHI's or two T3's would be easier to do and make more power (without the parasitic drag that a supercharger has). If an IHI can support 190 horses on a stock 2.3t two of them should be able to support 400 or so horses on a 5.0...

The BOP cars used an M-62 on the series I and series II engines. I'm not sure what the series III uses.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #20 – February 21, 2009, 12:23:42 PM

Twin Eaton m90 supercharged tbird
http://www.toohighpsi.com/SCTC/sctc.htm

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #21 – February 23, 2009, 09:40:20 AM

Cool, but I think hes only planning on one and I think we are gonna do it.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #22 – February 23, 2009, 10:01:15 AM

if u are going to do it ,at least get a 94-95 s-model blower
the 89-93 model WILL grenade and tear up everything includeing the engine
mike

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #23 – February 23, 2009, 01:40:35 PM

Good to know. Is there alot of differnce between the two?

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #24 – February 23, 2009, 01:47:51 PM

yes,the 94-95 s model is more dependable,better chacne of holding up to the strian of a v-8
mike

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #25 – February 24, 2009, 01:44:56 AM

Blowing up the motor cause it is a earlier blower??? I have never heard of such a thing...quit pulling his leg.

The reality is this...BBK used the early M90 as a supercharger kit back in the 90's. The BBK Instacharger is as reliable as sunrise as it is based on the Eaton M90. It is a really good SC and will add 4-8 lbs of boost to a stock 5.0. That boost increase alone is worth 100 hp!! The good thing is it is a screw type blower and not a centrifugal blower...that means it makes 4-8 lbs of boost from 2000 rpm and up!!! Makes the little 302 run like a 460!!!! Lots of torque!!

It is very easy to install one of these blowers on a 5.0 as I have already made brackets and cobbled all of the pieces to do it twice.

All you need is the blower, the pulleys for the water pump, crank, alternator (smog pump if you want), power steering pump and the entire A/C compressor (if used--I did not---it makes things hard), ducting from the throttle body to the blower, discharge tube, air bypass valve, belt tensioner (2 if you can get another), throttle body, throttle bracket and the TPS. You need to purchase and/or make an EGR block off plate and an intake manifold setup.

An intake that has injector provisions with a 4150 holley style carb base is used to make this easy. Remove the stock intake manifold and replace with one similar to the picture: They used to be hard to find but, are relatively easy to find now. This one is available from Anderson Ford Motorsport.

This particular intake is made by professional products and can be purchased from Summit. You need this elbow in the picture or one similar from Edelbrock

Drill the SBF crank bolt pattern onto the crank pulley. A simple paper rubbing with a pencil and some tape will get the SBC pattern from an existing crank pulley and transfer it onto the SC crank pulley. Replace all of the engine pulleys with the SC pulleys including the tensioner...you now have an 8 rib system...You may have to change the water pump pulley bolt pattern as well (I had an electric water pump).

Swap the valve covers..putting the fill side on the drivers side in the rear.

A small steel bracket will need to be fabbed to hold the blower on the passengers side of the engine over the valve cover as close to the dizzy as possible leaving room for wires. Fab a small spot to hold the second tensioner to this bracket...it must line up with the blower pulley and crank. Steel tubing and threaded rod will be needed as a long stud for the intake manifold and as an attachment point for the bracket. Weld your steel bracket to the threaded rod and make a small bracket to hold the other side to the exhaust bolt on the #1 or #2 Cylinder (whichever you feel is best) using long studs from a stock motor intake manifold bolt will work best.

Position your blower where the pulleys line up (use the outside crank pulley) and mark the blower. Using your paper and pencil again rub the bolt hole pattern on the bottom of the blower or intake manifold of the SC to make a small pattern. Place this pattern on the bracket to line up where you marked the blower in the position you wanted.
Drill the holes onto the bracket and place nuts that thread onto these bolts over the holes and weld them into place....viola...mounting points for the blower. Place the blower mounting bolts into the blower and bolt it down. Washers may be needed to shim the blower depending on what nuts you used. Make sure the blower pulley is parallel with the crank our you will chew up some belts.

Next, plumb some ducting!!!! The discharge outlet is ball and socket flanging....cool cause it does not leak alot plus exhaust uses the same thing!!! Cut the corresponding factory discharge tube( that leads to the intercooler) in half to remove the correct threaded piece that holds it to the discharge housing (save it for later). Have a large 2 1/2" to 3" pipe bent at an exhaust shop to get the intake to match up to the blower discharge and the engine intake . Flare the ball and socket end to match the discharge outlet. Place the threaded ball and socket "goofy" piece from the original discharge tube onto the piece of exhaust tubing and weld a onto the other end that mates to a Ford 5.0 throttle body. Screw them together. Fit a 1" or 1 1/4" (i cannot remember exactly) piece of tubing into the bypass valve inlet and mark where to cut the tubing and at what point to drill a hole into the exhaust piece where they meet. Weld your new bypass tube to the exhaust tubing where you drilled the hole. The bypass tube should now be functional.

If you want to go on the cheap use an old FMU from ebay......not alot of cash, or a boost referenced FPR. Plumb all vacuum lines to the intake of the blower. There is a vacuum tree already there for your sucking needs. Bolt on your EGR bypass . Mount your MAF ahead of the throttle body (use the SC MAF housing cause it is 75mm) and add a filter...Viola done!!! Look for leaks, DO A BURN OUT!!!!

:burnout: :burnout:

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #26 – February 24, 2009, 09:47:28 AM

Quote from: Lightningbird;258370

The good thing is it is a screw type blower and not a centrifugal blower...

Excellent write up - just need to correct the above as the Eaton is not a screw type.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #27 – February 24, 2009, 10:25:07 AM

Well see thats exactly the argument I was looking for! I wanted someone to lay out a solid point and you did it man. Seems to me that this is an entirely do-able project for a little added power. Unless joker can make a solid point what the differences are on the blower and what the problem is I would probably do it.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #28 – February 24, 2009, 01:34:57 PM

seems like a worth while project to be given all the parts can be had cheaply and fabricating skills and tools aren't an issue.

5.0 with an Eaton M90?

Reply #29 – February 24, 2009, 01:55:45 PM

Yeah thats why I'm thinking we'd be stupid to pass it up.