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Topic: Getting ready for a rebuild (Read 860 times) previous topic - next topic

Getting ready for a rebuild

OK this is what I currently have.

Stock 88 5.0 Thunderbird AOD

Already bought everything I need for the T5 Swap

Purchased a set of Windsor JR Iron heads with 1.6 roller rockers and hardened pushrods found them cheep

GT40 Upper and Lower Intake off of an explorer

X-303 Cam

Still need MAF setup think I have a good lead on this already

Still need to buy Forged postions, rings, bearings exc

My questions are as follows

Is the X-303 cam to much of a cam for a stock non HO block?

Is there really any differance in the stock block compared to an HO block besides the forged postions?

Will the windsor Jr's flow enough with the X-303
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin:

Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #1
Not the best heads, but not the worst either. If I were you, I would try to get some trickflow heads. I would also stay away from the alphabet cams. Play around on sbftech.com. You'll like it.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #2
I have what I have with limited budget the items that I have are going to have to be used any idea what kind of HP that this set up will give me?
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin:

Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #3
Quote from: bigbada1;257475
I have what I have with limited budget the items that I have are going to have to be used /QUOTE]

Just a note of practicality.  If you are going to use what you have, it will make what ever power it will make. 

This isn't intended to be a flame.  Using the parts you have will entail a learning curve.  Are they best parts and match well with each other?  Probably not.  Are they an upgrade from the SO you have now?  Sure.  By the time your done will it have exceeded your budget? Absolutely.  In my experience at least times two.  Not to discourage you, setting realistic expectations brings about better results.

Some tips:  If the bore on your block checks out an doesn't need to be bored, don't.  Machining costs add up fast.  A used set of HO 87/93 forged pistons can be found cheap.  Hope the crank is clean and spring for rebuilding the rods.  If the block and crank need work walk away, there are plenty of good shortblocks with forged pistons available used.
If the heads need work (guides or valves) walk away from them.  The cost to upgrade them is better spent on a better set of heads.  A good valve job will set you back at least $250.  Add in a good set of springs (about $200) you can see "cheep" heads can be expensive.  I am assuming these heads have adjustable rockers.

Valve train set up is really important.  Having good roller lifters, valve springs and the right length pushrod will make the difference of having a turd or a runner.

Piston to valve clearance may be an issue.  If so, you may learn how to fly cut pistons or have them done (for more money) or buy pistons with a bigger relief (for more money).

If found many people ask for opinions but really just hear what they want to hear.  This may not be what you want to hear.  You can benefit from the information or learn it the hard way.  I learned it the hard way.  I paid a lot in time and money for my learning curve. 

Good luck with your project.

Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #4
Isn't that a bit too much cam?

Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #5
Quote from: 86T-bird;257539
Quote from: bigbada1;257475
I have what I have with limited budget the items that I have are going to have to be used /QUOTE]

Just a note of practicality.  If you are going to use what you have, it will make what ever power it will make. 

This isn't intended to be a flame.  Using the parts you have will entail a learning curve.  Are they best parts and match well with each other?  Probably not.  Are they an upgrade from the SO you have now?  Sure.  By the time your done will it have exceeded your budget? Absolutely.  In my experience at least times two.  Not to discourage you, setting realistic expectations brings about better results.

Some tips:  If the bore on your block checks out an doesn't need to be bored, don't.  Machining costs add up fast.  A used set of HO 87/93 forged pistons can be found cheap.  Hope the crank is clean and spring for rebuilding the rods.  If the block and crank need work walk away, there are plenty of good shortblocks with forged pistons available used.
If the heads need work (guides or valves) walk away from them.  The cost to upgrade them is better spent on a better set of heads.  A good valve job will set you back at least $250.  Add in a good set of springs (about $200) you can see "cheep" heads can be expensive.  I am assuming these heads have adjustable rockers.

Valve train set up is really important.  Having good roller lifters, valve springs and the right length pushrod will make the difference of having a turd or a runner.

Piston to valve clearance may be an issue.  If so, you may learn how to fly cut pistons or have them done (for more money) or buy pistons with a bigger relief (for more money).

If found many people ask for opinions but really just hear what they want to hear.  This may not be what you want to hear.  You can benefit from the information or learn it the hard way.  I learned it the hard way.  I paid a lot in time and money for my learning curve. 

Good luck with your project.


good advice on the budget and part selection 86tbird. Machining cost do add up quick. I racked up a $1900 labor bill between the block work, head work, and assembly. For me having my guy assemble the shortblock, install the cam, check p-v clearence, and measure for correct push-rods was well worth the $300-$400 I was charged.

Heres my 2 cents
Spend it once and get what you want. If you can't afford it right now than save your cash and wait. Also buy used parts whenever possible (valve covers, intakes.. you get the idea)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


Getting ready for a rebuild

Reply #6
Quote from: 86T-bird;257539
Quote from: bigbada1;257475
I have what I have with limited budget the items that I have are going to have to be used /QUOTE]

If found many people ask for opinions but really just hear what they want to hear.  This may not be what you want to hear.  You can benefit from the information or learn it the hard way.  I learned it the hard way.  I paid a lot in time and money for my learning curve. 

Good luck with your project.


As the old saying goes "you end up spending more to do it on the cheap". Case in point: I didn't get over to SBFtech till after I had my engine done. If I had my 306 would have a Custom Cam and Valve train from CI in it right now (instead of the OTS Comp Cam). Now I get to spend more money on a cam and valve train set up again :hick: When I do though I bet the car will run 100% better. Not that it runs bad now but a custom cam will always be better than an off the shelf cam.


Oh and please don't use the X-cam. Those FRPP cams are  :flame:
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.