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Topic: Bad news. (Read 11351 times) previous topic - next topic

Bad news.

Reply #90
Doesn't look too bad, though I can definitely see it costing $2k to fix. Like others have said, if you can minimize the work for the shop you might save a little. You can have the entire front clip off with a couple of dozen bolts and an hour of your time (maybe a little more if some are stuck and you need to squirt some WD-40 in there). Too bad it's not a T-Bird, or I'd give you my old silver header panel. It's sitting in storage, and someday I need to get rid of it. I could donate my old turbines, too, but I'm way over here in Philly. It looks like yours survived, though, thankfully. Good luck with it. It definitely looks fixable.
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5.0L Speed density
Explorer intake
'92 Mustang GT cam
GT-40 racing heads
Unequal length headers
Custom-made duals
19# injectors
65mm TB
AFPR
T/C header panel
11" brake upgrade
T/C rear sway bar
Electrical mods: too many to list :D






Bad news.

Reply #96
Those pics break my heart.... it looks exactly like my car.. just smashed....
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Just enjoyin the ride!!!!

Bad news.

Reply #97
That really is sad.:( I hope you and your dad can fix/or get it fixed, for a reasonable price.I think if you can do alot of the work yourself,it can be done at a price you are comfortable with.

I hope it all turns out ok for you.
Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily: 
  [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily:
1983 base model,1969 302 (originally a v6),upraded c5,currently 30,441 original miles.

Bad news.

Reply #98
Here is some motivation for you!, again im just trying to help. I went out and got a few decent reference points and treated this as though it were my screw up i would have to fix.  This is what i come up with on a really good start.

Let your dad stew on this and see what he thinks.  All this can be done right there at home if only you had a few warm days in a row.  once the pulling is done, its a matter of getting the car inside where its warm to finish up and fit test.

the primary objective here is to get the window trim to strut tower measurement taken.  If these pass, your car will drive perfectly straight no problems.  Just pay attention to the sway bar down below, it may be a little tweeked but usually those big U clamps down there bend first.

remember to use non metalic hammers as much as possilbe when shaping the metal back.  When you beat on the metal, paint comes off.  If you use regular metal objects to beat with to shape ect, just dont forget to have a couple cans of primer and some spray paint of a good quality. Most of your skeletal work will be out of view so touch up inexpensive paints will be better than no metal protection at all.

Let me know what you two come up with because I really think more and more all you need is a good header panel.  or, you can sell the car to me:evilgrin:

Bad news.

Reply #99
Most likely me and my dad are going to attempt taking the front end off and ahve the frame straightened by the mechanic lol.
And then we can put a new front clip on by ourselves.
that would at least save us a grand



Bad news.

Reply #100
a front clip is ...........

torch used to cut the entire front end off a car from the front side of each strut tower.

sounds like you are talking about bolting on body parts,, either way it sounds like progress to me:D  good luck.

Share those measurements with the mech, he will have no idea what is goal is unless he has another car to compare to.

Can anyone else measure the same points i did?  Its just two measurements.
This will help the mech and save him a ton of time trying to figure out what the mesurements were before the crash.

Bad news.

Reply #101
Quote from: Samantha;249807
Most likely me and my dad are going to attempt taking the front end off and ahve the frame straightened by the mechanic lol.
And then we can put a new front clip on by ourselves.
that would at least save us a grand

Just bring it in and have them do a 4 wheel alignment, or atleast a front end alignment.  The results he'll get can tell alot of things about what got tweaked and what didn't.  Keep in mind, plastic parts make it look alot worse than it really is.  I'll come up with some measurements....once it gets up to 10F.
1987 TC

Bad news.

Reply #102
The trick is to reverse the direction the damage occured.  Then bolt on body parts and plastic.
1987 TC

Bad news.

Reply #103
Here's the measurements for the Cougar.
I'll post additional measurements for the upper front  later tonight.
If they're hard to read, let me know and I can email you a full size copy.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Bad news.

Reply #104
Quote from: daminc;249858
Here's the measurements for the Cougar.
I'll post additional measurements for the upper front later tonight.
If they're hard to read, let me know and I can email you a full size copy.

Did you spend the whole day doing that, Now thats crazy+
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +