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Topic: 5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe (Read 16185 times) previous topic - next topic

Well...

Reply #90
I didn't get too much done today either.  I did install the power steering pump pulley though.  After that was pressed into position, I started wiring my 3G in.  I had to make another run back to the bone yard to get a 3 pin connector off of a Taurus there.  After I got back from getting that, I installed the shifter cable and called it a day.  :flip:
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #91
Any progress is still progress.Everything you do,no matter how small is still one step closer to finished.All I did over the last two days was have the small water tube on my intake water pipes welded closed after I cut it off.I don't use the throttle body spacer water lines.They also bead blasted it for me and I brought it home,painted and installed it.Little stuff.They didn't charge me after they looked the Sport over.They (guys at the machine shop) thought the car was cool and hadn't ever seen anyone fix one up before,so,they said "don't worry about it" (the price).Cool for me.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #92
Any progress is good progress.  That's true.  If I'm anything, I'm patient.

I'm trying to get the end of the shifter cable to snap on to the  on the shifter linkage up in the tranny tunnel.  The plastic bushing that the end of the cable is supposed to snap over is giving me fits.  It just won't let the cable snap over it.  Does anyone know where I could buy a new plastic bushing?  I'm sure that would help.
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #93
Chipping away at it.  Today I finished wiring in the stator, alternator and ignition wires for my 3G.  I also found a new bushing for the shifter linkage.  It never ceases to amuze me how many people there are working at auto parts stores who have no clue about what parts they do, or don't stock.  When I called around yesterday, looking for those bushings, you'd think I was asking if they had a golden goose.  Today, I stopped by Advance Auto Parts and looked for them myself.  Sure enough, they had them.

When I got home, I took the old, mangled bushing off the shifter linkage and put a new one on.  That allowed me to snap the cable on, so that's one more thing out of the way.

I spent part of the day with my nose in my trusty EVTM.  Since I couldn't find a good used O2 harness, I ordered a new one from a guy who makes them (sells them on Ebay).  The harness I bought from him was supposed to be pinned for a Fox Stang with an AOD and long tubes.  When I checked to see if the harness was pinned properly, I saw that it wasn't.  That's why .I had to break out the EVTM and repin the harness.  Now that harness is ready to go, I'm about ready to install the upper intake.  Once I get that bad boy on, it's gonna really start looking like an engine.

As far as my 3G goes, all I need to do now, is buy some 4 gauge flexible power cable from a car audio store and a 120 amp circuit breaker.  That will complete it's installation.
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #94
I'm glad to see you're still moving forward.Luckily for me,I don't have any wiring work to do,just swapping heavy parts.LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #95
I would get a 150-175 amp breaker, the 130 amps can supposedly hit up to 160 amps at higher RPM's. Unless you have a 90 amp.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #96
Quote from: vinnietbird;299118
I'm glad to see you're still moving forward.Luckily for me,I don't have any wiring work to do,just swapping heavy parts.LOL.

 Some guys might mind having to do all the extra work I've been doing, but I'm really glad I'm the one doing it.  By the time I pull this thing out of the driveway and onto the road, I'll know exactly what's in it.  I'm learning every square in of this car and I'm loving every minute of it!
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #97
Quote from: Haystack;299152
I would get a 150-175 amp breaker, the 130 amps can supposedly hit up to 160 amps at higher RPM's. Unless you have a 90 amp.

 I saw that Jcassity recommended using a 120 amp fuse in his 3G install instructions.  Since my 3G is rated at 130 amps, I thought it was a strange idea to use circuit protection that's rated lower than your alternator, but figured he had a good reason for it.  I have easy access to a 150 amp circuit breaker.  It would be very convenient for me if I used one rated at 150.  Now I'm not sure which way to go on this.  :(  If my 3G is gonna throw out that many amps under high RPM conditions, I'd have to go with a 150 amp breaker.
William

Update

Reply #98
I've been focusing on getting my AOD set up right over the past couple of days.  Yesterday, I went to the nastiest bone yard in town and robbed a shift lever out of a T Bird there.  It's one of those yards that a guy just doesn't go to, unless his options are really limited.  That's the situation I found myself in, so I headed over there yesterday morning.  It's not unusual for this place to have deep pools of soup under their cars even when there hasn't been rain for weeks.  With that in mind, I knew I'd have an interesting day cut out for me considering I needed a part that was under the car.    After I built myself a junkyard creeper (seat cushion, headliner and spare tire cover thrown on the ground) to keep me up out of the swamp, I got down to brass tacks.  It wasn't fun, but I got the shift lever out of the tranny.  After I wiped myself off enough so I didn't look like a freshly-used rectal thermometer, I jumped in the van and headed home.      Since I promised my brother I would do some work on his car yesterday, I didn't get a chance to do any real work on mine.  Today though (Wednesday), I replaced the bad shift lever in my tranny with the one I robbed from the bone yard yesterday.  Even though I was careful with them, 3 of the tranny pan bolts snapped off when I was trying to take them out.  I was PISSED!  Oh well.  I still had enough time left in my day to drill out those bolts and tap one of the holes.  I tried extracting the broken off bolts, but got a bad feeling when I tried backing them out.  It was taking too much effort to get them to even start to turn.  Instead of taking a chance on snapping off an extractor in one of the holes, I decided to drill the holes to size and tap them.    tomorrow, I need to tap the other two bolt holes, but that won't take long.  I still need to buy a valve body from Dan Gisldorf, but at the moment, don't have the money.  It won't be long before I do though, so I want to make sure everything else has been done with the tranny.  I want to have it set up so I can install the VB and be ready to go.  Oh well.  When I have more to report on, I'll share it with you guys.  Have a great night!
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #99
LOL.I've been to salvage yards like that.They suck,but,tend to have more of the older cars on hand as well.I may be picking up my differential from a yard like that today.I know what you mean about knowing every square inch of the car.I know the Sport.....better than Ford did at this point.When I find myself with people talking about our cars,it feels good to know that I did the work,made the car what it is.Nice.Keep us posted on the work.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #100
Quote from: 88 Blackbird 5.0;299254
I saw that Jcassity recommended using a 120 amp fuse in his 3G install instructions.  Since my 3G is rated at 130 amps, I thought it was a strange idea to use circuit protection that's rated lower than your alternator, but figured he had a good reason for it.  I have easy access to a 150 amp circuit breaker.  It would be very convenient for me if I used one rated at 150.  Now I'm not sure which way to go on this.  :(  If my 3G is gonna throw out that many amps under high RPM conditions, I'd have to go with a 150 amp breaker.


Your 3G is gonna throw out that many amps when all your lights, AC, wipers, and other electrical accessories are on.  Another thing to consider is whether there is anything else that gets burned up at 150 amps in your electrical circuit.  You may need it to pop at 120 to protect something else.  Hopefully someone on here can guess if your car will even draw more than 120 amps or not.

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #101
Quote from: xjeffs;299580
Your 3G is gonna throw out that many amps when all your lights, AC, wipers, and other electrical accessories are on.  Another thing to consider is whether there is anything else that gets burned up at 150 amps in your electrical circuit.  You may need it to pop at 120 to protect something else.  Hopefully someone on here can guess if your car will even draw more than 120 amps or not.


Just wait till you have your battery ran dead from leaving your head lights on or jump someone else. The battery is just a load until charged after the car is started. A dead battery or a bad one could pull more then the cars charging system can provide.

It really isn't all that hard to come up with 90+ amps, especially if you have an electric fan, stereo system things like that. I think the electric motors are around 30 amps each if its a duel unit.

If you add up just what your lights are supposed to put out, you'll wonder how your stock alt even powered them at idle.

The way I see it, anything that is going to pull alot of amperage shouldn't fry anything except the alt and what ever is causing the amperage draw. A direct short should pull enough to make the wires melt, which is why you have a breaker/fuse. Voltage yes, but not amperage. If you used the proper wiring gauge, there is nothing to be worried about going with a 150 amp breaker on a system that is designed to hit 130+.

I wonder what the amperage rating is on the stock fuseable links? More then the alt puts out I'm sure.

Amperage is easy to "guess".

wattage divided by voltage equals amps, or something like that.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #102
Both of you guys make some really good points.  I'm gonna use high-grade, 4-gauge wire to be on the safe side.  Because of that, I'll bet Haystack is right about being safe with the 150 amp breaker.
William

Update

Reply #103
I should have more money rolling in soon, so I can finish this thing.  Just posting an update to let everyone here know what's going on with my project.
William

5.0 Meet Turbo Coupe

Reply #104
Hey,good to see you're still live.LOL. I'm in the same boat.No funds.Once the weather clears,and I get some time (and about $100.00),I can install the engine and differential (and CHE control arms).Nothing going on lately,just waiting patiently.How's everything there?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..