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Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #30
Fantastic work, must be a feeling of great satisfaction to walk into your house and think "yeah I built that". Of course your probably like me and then think " I still need to finish those......". Awesome craftsmanship :bowdown:

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #31
Hey Jerry
 Started on my crawl space doors this week and have  came back to go over some of what I have learned here whitch led to some  questions.
 
 How did the Gorilla glue work out? I have some I  could use, as well as some liquid nails if you have noticed any problems with  the gorilla.
 
 in post #24 you say
 
Quote
Here they are all ready to be sanded down  and cleared again.
[/SIZE][/FONT]
 What do you sand with at this point? Seem that 120g  or courser would scratch into the dye, so I'm thinking steel wool. Can you  elaborate on this a bit. And I'm assuming your talking a very lite had  sanding.
 
 Still looking for a local place to buy the dye,  Home Depot and Lowes don't list it on there web site, and I havent the forsite  to have ordered it in advance.
 
 One of those crawl spaces was reserved for the  christmas decorations that were in the garage, now that there down I was the  crawl space useable by jan 1 so when the decorations come down they can go there  instead of back in the garage. (so I'm on a deadline)
 
 Jim
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #32
The only complaint on the white glue is, It doesn't dye dark very well.
I prefer the regular foaming glue that dries dark. It makes it less noticable.

I use either 220 garnet paper or 0000 steel wool. the wool is a little more forgiving on the edges. and it just takes the fuzz of the finish to make it smooth.

If you don't get the dye on the web. See if there's a Rockler woodworking store near you. I just bought some there last week for a project. or perhaps a paint place like Sherwin Williams might have dye also.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #33
Letting my impatient side show through I went ahead and moved on this and the first of two doors is done. Nowhere near the quality of yours but I’m extremely pleased with it.
I used Cedar, For the frame I used some 1x3 with oval edges, not sure what it was intended for but it came from the Decking area in Home Depot and was under $4. For a 8ft. It took most of two of them.
 
For the panels I used some tongue and groove cedar flooring strips they had that was about 3 x 3/16 x 8ft they came in a package of 6 for $17 and it took 3 of them for this first door.
 
I slotted the frame’s with the table saw, running multiple passes shifting the fence on the saw over a bit each time until I had it wide enough for the panels. One of these days I’ll invest in a dado blade set.
 
I used the Gorilla Glue, and should have read the instructions about the whole foaming thing, but figured it out when the stuff kept oozing out the cracks, I went back and wiped it off every 15 min or so for the first hour and I do have some spots where the stain didn’t adhere to it as well as the rest but it’s hardly noticeable unless you’re looking for it (and I am my biggest critic)
 
I used the 0000 Steel wool also, That’s what we have been using so that’s what I had, just wanted to know if you used something else.
 
I took two of your suggestions and used them.
First was the Biscuit Joint’s, I had never even heard of those before, and now I own me a Ryobi Biscuit Jointer
http://woodworking.about.com/od/recommendations/gr/RyobiJM82Joiner.htm
Was about $100 at Home Depot and I know Ryobi isn’t the best quality but the next best they had was $219 and I just don’t need enough doors to justify the added cost (got a house payment now, gotta live like poor folk) I used #20 biscuits and did not take your advise on the jig you built (keep in mind the advise I mention that I didn’t take is not because I think I knew better, but because I’m lazy, impatient, or have some other character defect showing through. I’m mentioning them to help you or others reading your thread to know what mistakes I made) instead I seen how the instructions with the Jointer showed to set the two corners together then draw a line @ 45 degree and line the jointer up on this line.
 
 
Joint Problems:
My slot for the biscuit was to near the center of the frame, The tip of the biscuit extended a bit into the slot I cut for the panels. I had enough clearance on the panels so was not a big deal, I’ll be able to do this better next time. I don’t think the jig would have helped me on this as I would have just ended up more precisely in the wrong spot.
Where you put brads in the back to hold the joint so you didn’t have to clamp I (don’t have a brad gun for my air compressor) used some steel L angle brackets. I should have bought longer bars for my bar clamps, I have gaps in the corners between each piece of the framework. I still don’t understand HOW those brads you used held the corners together tight, but I’m pretty sure the clamps would have done the trick.
 
As mentioned above I went ahead and used stain.
The highlight (pun intended) of the project was the use of two colors as you suggested. I had always figured that a dark stain would just cover a lighter. But FAR from the case. I bought two can’s , Colonial Oak (lighter) and a Mahogany (darker). I used each on a test piece and didn’t like either (as expected) the light was TOO light and the Darker was TOO dark. Neither of them looked like they did on the can, never does. But then I had a third test piece that I did one end in the light and the other in the dark. On this test piece I waited for it to dry then went over the light side with the dark stain and OMG there it was, JUST what I was looking for, the grain about glowed. I didn’t even bother doing the dark side over with the light stain. THIS was what I wanted. (pics later)
 
I also followed what you did, staining after it was all put together, normally I would have stained all the pieces first then assembled then varnished. Not sure of your reasoning in assembling first but I had issues getting the stain into the corners and grooves (I also didn’t spray, I wiped), not to mention I think the areas where the glue oozed out would have came out a bit better if the stain had been there first. Then I would have just needed to get the varnish to stick (didn’t seem to be a problem)
 
Overall I’m extremely pleased with the results. Like most of my home projects if I was paying somebody to do it I would expect perfection so I would reject them, But for doing it myself, this is one of the nicest job’s I have ever done. I’ll never use a single color of stain again, that is just TOO friggin awesome!
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #34
Here's a shot of a test piece, showing the dark on the right light on the left, and mixed in the center.


Close up of the grain definition,



Installed, still a little trim work to do
:birdsmily:   Objects In Mirror Appear to be Loosing  :birdsmily:

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #35
Very nice guys.... I'll try to remember to get a few pictures of the grandfather clock my father -in-law made... completely out of wood, including the gears and hinges. the only thing not wood on it is the weights, oh and the ivory numbers and hands he carved.
:cougarsmily:~Karen~

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #36
I believe the color of the guitar is the 20th anny maroon right?
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Just enjoyin the ride!!!!

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #37
Quote from: massCougarxr7;248698
I believe the color of the guitar is the 20th anny maroon right?


That's a delayed response. LOL

The maroon is also metallic and was newer then 87.
I don't know if the 20ths are metallic
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #38
I have to tell you that it's a great job for your first time.
You tend to learn what not to do and better ways of doing things after the job is done. I myself still learn and improve every time I make another set of doors. the next doors you make, you'll see an improvement and a savings in time.
Good job, I had some stuff going on during the holidays and forgot to get back to this thread.
I did manage to finish the kitchen for my wife yesterday. Doors, glass, handles, trim, ceiling, and crown moulding are all finished.
here's some pics.








[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #39
and as an extra bonus
the kitchen I made for my mom




[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #40
Wow nice!! can you come and do our kitchens? We have 3 in this house and they could all use an overhaul :D

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #41
You do great work Looks better than the stuff you can buy...
:ford::oldcougar::mercury:

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #42
Quote from: baxo;251225
Wow nice!! can you come and do our kitchens? We have 3 in this house and they could all use an overhaul :D


where do you fit 3 kitchens in your house?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #43
Quote from: cougar1car;251442
You do great work Looks better than the stuff you can buy...


Thanks man, I appreciate the compliment.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Home Project (this one's for you, Jim Miller)

Reply #44
Quote from: daminc;251466
where do you fit 3 kitchens in your house?

One on each floor.