blown again.....Fixed

Topic: blown again.....Fixed (Read 1976 times) previous topic - next topic

blown again.....Fixed

July 25, 2008, 06:33:56 PM

yesterday and today the car has been getting really hot, yesterday I changed the waterpump thinking that it would fix the problem but it was still getting hot. today the car got hot again really hot and now it is blowing steam out of the tail pipes and wont idle on its own so I am thinking that I blew the head gasket. here is my question. the head has already been resurfaced once and I'm not sure that I didnt warp the head. what are the advantages or disadvantages of using an N/A head on the turbo engine? would I gain anything or lose anything?

blown again.....Fixed

Reply #1 – July 26, 2008, 04:50:00 AM

there are several different heads you would be able to use with ur current intake. thing is... for D-port heads you have closed chamber which is a little higher compression and open chamber which flows better. i do beleive the n/a and turbo heads are the same but the cam may be different. valves and such id say are the same as well. just my thoughts

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Reply #2 – July 26, 2008, 09:08:27 AM

It runs better on the low end because the compression on the NA is higher (9:1NA vs 8:1Turbo). However the higher compression will limit the amount of boost and timing that can be run relative to the Turbo head. Boost makes more HP than compression.
There are people running NA heads on turbos engines. Besure to use the turbo valves. Just be careful how much boost and ignition timing you run

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Reply #3 – July 26, 2008, 11:56:02 AM

Quote

Besure to use the turbo valves.

I knew they were different, but can anyone explain the differences and perhaps even post a comparison pic?

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Reply #4 – July 26, 2008, 11:56:20 AM

I'm running a 2.3 Na head on mine has a little more pep on the bottom end. With the added compression you'll have to cut down on the boost just a little. Most of the compression difference is in the pistons. there is a little in the head though. I've been running mine that way for about 4yrs now and no problems running 15psi. as for the valves I do believe that they use a hardened valve made of different material than the NA heads. The turbo heads also got hardened valve seats.

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Reply #5 – July 26, 2008, 07:07:49 PM

got it all pulled apart and found that I have two cracks in #2 and #3 exhaust seats so I am on to the N/A head here are some pics of my progress. from the looks of #2 piston it seems that it hasnt been firing

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Reply #6 – July 26, 2008, 07:18:42 PM

I haven't been here long, but what is the history on your cylinder head? Rather, why was it resurfaced in the first place and do you think ultimately it was a tuning issue or what?

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Reply #7 – July 27, 2008, 12:16:45 AM

the head was resurfaced because it was warped. and the cause this time was a faulty thermostat. normally I would have stopped to let the car cool down but having the baby with us on a 100+ degree day made me keep going resulting in the cracked head.

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Reply #8 – July 27, 2008, 12:41:06 AM

so I am using this head from a 70 something pinto. what kind of changes will I need to do to it before I can install it? I know I am going to need to change the cam bearings and install my ranger roller setup but I dont have a way to remove the valves and I dont have any way to go anywhere to get a spring compressor. would it hurt anything to leave the valves alone? another thing what are people calling a "big valve head" for the 2.3?

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Reply #9 – July 27, 2008, 10:00:22 AM

Ok there you need to drill and tap a hole in the head for the front Bolt hole in the lower intake. As for the valve removal it can be done Redneck like not saying I would do i like this but it will work. Take the old head and place something inside the chamber right under the valve. Then take a Deep well socket and place it on top of the valve spring. Now take a hammer give that socket a real good hit. That should do it . You might need to hit it more than once. The keepers should come out and the spring will be loose.
Like I said risky but it get the job done. Be sure you don't bend any valve. Don't even ask how to put it back together. I will add that I've been running my 2.3NA head for about 3-4yrs and no problems with the NA valves in it. The head was freshly rebuild all I did was slap it on and drill and tap the hole for the lower intake. Oh yeah the big valve head for the 2.3 is 1.89 for the intake valve.

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Reply #10 – July 27, 2008, 03:48:15 PM

that 70's pinto head is an oval port head! will not match your intake manifold. i do have some information pertaining to what heads are what and all the differences but im not sure where. but i beleive 81+ 2.3's had a D-port head. and i think from bout 83-86 or so was closed chamber (higher comp) and others were open chamber.

Big Valve head i beleive would be the large valve head from Esslinger Racing which runs about 950 for cast iron and 1750 for aluminum.

speaking of which ive been told if you order a new head from ford... you can ONLY get an aluminum 2.3 head ;-)

hope you can find something soon. but id suggest lookin 81+ they will match your intake

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Reply #11 – July 27, 2008, 07:21:33 PM

the only head I have available and that I can get ahold of is the one I have and it has the oval ports.

while removing the valves from the N/A head I noticed that the N/A valve springs are alittle shorter with thicker coils, should I use these when I put the head back together or should I use the turbo springs?

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Reply #12 – July 28, 2008, 01:20:49 AM

heres another update pic head is installed need to pull the turbo and replace the gasket and install the last valve lash adjuster and roller rocker. then everything else is down hill.

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Reply #13 – July 29, 2008, 09:04:31 PM

everything is back together and the car is running but I cant make any boost. I set the timing at 10* right where it was before I took everything apart is this where I am going wrong? also the engine revs quicker than it did before but stops at about 5k. any ideas??

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Reply #14 – July 30, 2008, 12:42:38 PM

anyone?? I really need this car.