Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #15 – March 05, 2008, 05:24:21 PM Look at the engine light on page 90 of your EVTM. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #16 – March 05, 2008, 05:35:07 PM jcassityQuoteremove your oil presure switch and install your oil presure guage in the same hole.I've tried to find the oil pressure switch for years. Maybe my old eyesight is missing something but NOWHERE in the shop is it identified. If you got a clue, I'd like to know!!QuoteI commented that the CFI has carbon buildup. Ill bet the farm your good ole enigine rebuild had nothing to do with the CFI.That part got ignored when the rebuild was done im sure. No one cares to look there.Talked to the finish mechanic (not the engine rebuilt group) and he indicated he cleaned all the carbon buildup out of the base plate.Will keep suggestion part of checklist for now.QuoteYour symptoms sound more like oil presure related so perhaps someone took a short cut on the parts.DId the shop produce all the old part? What about the crank? What about the oil presure proportioning valve in the timing cover, what about the old oil pump gear set on the timing cover? What type of wear pattern was on the old bearings?Basically, if your oil presure is 20 or so psi and never gets anywhere near 40 plus, the shop f'ed you over. Im gonna guess the oil presure at idle is in the teens because of the calibration range of the manual oil presure switches and how they range from open to close contact.Always a possibility I got taken, but I have lot confidence in shop I selected. They do all high performance stuff, including marine engines that go into 500k+ boats. Whether they treated me as well is ??QuoteI wouldnt worry so much about the idle control motor because you can just set it anywhere to get the engine rpm stable at idle (if thats your goal). Worse case there would be a code thrown for the Idle Tracking Switch which can be taken care of later. All you need to do is figure out if setting the idle to 600-800rpm cures the problem with the light. Since you dont have a tac, it will all be by ear.I agree with idle control motor and switch since controlled by EEC.According to shop, EEC takes total care of RPM and any adjustment is waste time. I do have a handheld tac, haven't ever used it on the 3.8 as never could figure out where to hook it. Care to enlighten me???QuoteAnother idea would be to clean the ACT sensor of any sludge buildup. Also measure the resistance when its cold (bout 50kohm) and the same goes for the Coolant Temp Sensor , same resistance as well per my diy link as well as both our shop manuals.Will keep the above in mind.Didn't drive today, but have a 15-20 mile trip tomorrow so will see if my cleaning/silicon did any good, otherwise will start with you ideas above.============================softtouchQuoteWhen you turn the key on and before you start, the engine light is on because you have no oil pressure.Agree. Haven't traced the engine light circuit yet to see what all it controls.==============Thanks for input guys Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #17 – March 05, 2008, 11:08:44 PM The oil pressure switch is shown on page 92 of your EVTM. It is just above and to the right of the oil filter. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #18 – March 05, 2008, 11:27:34 PM If...- Your oil pressure checks out fine;- You've cleaned everything;- The car is confirmed to be not overheating;- Everything else mentioned above is in spec- And you're getting no EEC codes......then......change the temp sending unit. That used to happen on my first '84. Car had under 50,000 miles on the ticker, and that light would intermittently flash (car was just a few years old then). Granted, I was pretty ignorant about the head gasket issue at that time, but I ignored the light several times and the car never overheated, nor did it have an oiling issue. A change of the temp sending unit fixed the problem. After I sold the car, it went to approx. 140,000 miles before requiring a head gasket change. Guess I lucked out. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #19 – March 06, 2008, 09:17:08 AM My 83 flashed on and off at me for two or three days before I realized that the coolant was low because the water pump was leaking :hick:*Why yes little light I know my car has an engine* Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #20 – March 06, 2008, 09:40:03 AM Quote from: EricCoolCats;207877 but I ignored the light several times . There's a Check Engine light for guys like that... Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #21 – March 09, 2008, 01:32:53 AM Thanks for all the input guys. I did locate the following:1) What controls the warning lamp (Section 33-12 and page 90 of the EVTM manual). Thanks softtouch.2) Found the oil pressure gauge -- by oil filter (page 92 EVTM) Thanks again softtouch.3) Where to hook up a tach (small negative connector of coil and then to ground) p15-75 in Emission Manual makes reference. Blew the dust off my old Penske dwell/tach meter and also found the paperwork which confirms this connection for Fords.Today (Sat evening) just finished taking another test drive. Identified the following:1) Siliconing the TFI, plug boots, and cleaning the distributor rotor contacts had NO effect.2) At stop in drive, slightly increasing RPM caused light to go out.---------------------------Next effort is to run wires into cab or tape them -- for tach measurements, oil pressure, and coolant temperature so I can monitor while running.--------------------Took tach measurements and RPM are steady at 480-500. Seems low but since EEC-IV controls guess not much I can do about it.Triggered condition and then removed wire to temp sensor and warning light remained ON.So that leaves oil pressure switch UNLESS something else is wired in and not shown in shop.Thought I'd replace oil sensor to see if corrects -- naturally requires a 6 point 1-1/16 socket (12 pt won't work) so off to get a socket. David Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #22 – March 12, 2008, 10:29:21 PM Put in a new oil pressure switch -- light still triggers after 15-20 miles at idle stop.Opted for switch over gauge for now.So -- where to go from here:1) Can oil pump be eradict???2) Are low RPM's causing the problem but why only after running 15-20 miles??Any other suggestions guys?????????ThanksDavid Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #23 – March 13, 2008, 12:07:39 AM I cant keep beating a dead horse so when you get an oil presure reading, post it.simple fix would be to do an oil change and use the next highest thicker oil. If the problem goes away, you likely just found your problem-- Im not sure where you live so if youve been running thin oil and the temps got higher in your area, you may not be running thick enough. 10w40 is standard while 10w30 makes good for winter.anyway, old question,, did the rebuild shop provide you with **ALL** your old parts? if the crank was .004 or more, using a thicker oil will shim that up and make the light go out.like i said, not good. without an oil pres reading we cant tell.without you knowing the actual idle rpm, its hard to tell as well.your beating a dead horse just talking about it, you gotta get reading on both. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #24 – March 13, 2008, 08:36:04 AM Quote from: jcassity;208906I cant keep beating a dead horse so when you get an oil presure reading, post it.And why not??? Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #25 – March 13, 2008, 10:52:33 AM i have the same problem in my 84 t/c. the red engine light comes on after it gets warmed up. i took these guys advice and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge. i found that after she gets warm and i'm at a stop light that the oil pressure drops to 10psi. then the red light comes on. so go get your self a cheap gauge and install it so you can find out if that is the problem. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #26 – March 13, 2008, 11:00:25 PM jcassity and others appreciate all your input. ipsd -- already know oil pressure the problem based on the fact that the warning light is only triggered by either oil pressure or coolant temp. Pulling leads and seeing what happened identified is as oil pressure. Only issue in question is what is the pressure when it triggers.THats why, IMHO a gauge seems somewhat redundant in that the oil pressure switch is set to trigger at some psi value. So far haven't found that value?jcassity didn't intend to give you heartburn :>). BTW I'm in southern Arizona. Rebuilder used CF4 diesel oil. Indicated need to run either CF4 or race oil. Suggested I try and oil change to see what happens. Hopefully oil change and gauge install this weekend.Also in process contacting the petroleum institute to see if in fact true -- does CF4 or racing have different lubricant which will make any difference? As a final note, my web searches found1) similar Ford issues supposedly either a oil pump relief value or cam bearings. 2) the oil gauge installed by Ford in later models (>1984 or more) and F150 trucks are redundant anyway. Supposedly Ford put a 20 ohm resistor in line with the gauge which effectively turned it into a switch. This may be on interest to some. Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #27 – March 14, 2008, 12:54:54 AM your over complicating simple stuff.The guage i got (and made it a tool) comes in a package with a clear little hose and a couple brass fittings. You just remove your old oil pres sensor (may reqire that special socket), and install the gizmo you just bought for like 10 or 12 bux.The search you found on the internet for the oil presure relief valve is exactly what i explained to you earlier.more info now.....The oil filter screws on the timing coverat the 2 o'clock of the oil filter is your oil pres switchremove filter and you will see 6 boltsremove six bolts and there reveals your oil pump gears.remove the gears and there will be a slot or hole exposed.you will see a rod like thing a ma jig up in therethat is a long metal thingy that is inside the timing cover.this slides back and forth with a spring on one end."THIS" would be the oil presure relief valve.The only way to R/R it is to remove the timing cover.There is a freeze plug on the back side of the timing cover driver sideDrill it and pop it out , remove the valve and spring.A new oil pump gear set will come with:gears, valve,spring,freeze plugI have no data on how often the culpert of low oil psi is caused by a binding oil relief valve.I do know this,, a high volume oil pump gearset will likely help you.Another thing I know,, you best be getting your ass back over to whomever built the motor and express your concern. you never mentioned if they gave you your old parts back or what your "rebuild" entailed.If you went as cheap as possible, then they probably reused your old crank and your gap is too large on the mains and rods.also,, go do yourself an oil change and get thicker stuff in there. Its gonna do nothing but get hotter there in AZ so the thicker the better for now because when oil heats up, it thins out.I dont get heartburn,,lol,, i just get wound up easy:D Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #28 – March 14, 2008, 12:55:59 AM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;208918And why not???hummm,, good point:D Quote Selected
Intermittent Check Engine - No Codes Reply #29 – March 14, 2008, 07:59:07 AM Quote from: dw85745;2090452) the oil gauge installed by Ford in later models (>1984 or more) and F150 trucks are redundant anyway. Supposedly Ford put a 20 ohm resistor in line with the gauge which effectively turned it into a switch. This may be on interest to some.True for some models but not all... Models with a gage(not blinking light or a bar graph), continued to have real time monitoring till about '89 or '90... At that time Ford neutered them into nothing more than idiot gages... Quote Selected
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