2.3t questions Reply #60 – September 09, 2007, 08:21:34 PM How do I adjust the boost in this thing? Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #61 – September 09, 2007, 08:49:32 PM Quote from: atariman;175344How do I adjust the boost in this thing?Stock you don't. The early non-SVO cars had a fixed boost set-up from the factory.An "easy" way is to replace the fitting on the turbo compressor housing (the one with the hose that runs to the wastegate actuator), with one of the 2-port fittings from a BCS-equipped(Boost Control Solenid) car. The extra port on that fitting is a bleed orifice and reduces the signal to the WGA, thus it opens later. I just connect the extra port to a fitting on the turbo inlet and leave it at that. That's usually good for 15-16# boost with little fuss.Another way is to get a Manual Boost Controller, such as a Gillis. It is a spring-ball type that you put in the signal line between the turbo compressor and the WGA. The spring holds the ball against the seat until a certain boost pressure is reached and then sends the boost signal to the WGA. The benefit of this is that the the WGA will not see boost until the set level is reached. With a bleed type (as explained before) the WGA will start seeing boost signal sooner and begin to open the WGA flapper (to start releasing boost). Driveability and boost response is improved with the spring-ball type, but the other works well on the street too. I just ran the bleed type I mentioned in my turbo Ranger.I might have an extra one of those 2-port fittings.You don't want to go too high on boost with the stock fuel system and the smaller injectors. You'll be pushing the limits. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #62 – September 09, 2007, 10:19:08 PM Well, to tell the truth, I really shouldn't increase the boost at all. The engine has some lifter issues and who knows what other internal problems. I was only curious as to how one went about doing it. The exhaust manifold is developing a crack in the middle of it too. Well, as soon as the T-bird sells, I can change a few things on it, and get it ready to be refurbished. About that fitting, could a hole be drilled in it and have a bolt or something put in it to regulate boost pressure? I just put a bigger turbo on a friends 5.9L cummins and the turbo had that fitting with an "adjustable" alan screw. Would this work for ours?Brian Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #63 – September 09, 2007, 10:36:51 PM You can drill holes in the line that goes to the wastegate to increase boost. Wouldn't boost much beyond 18 if I were you. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #64 – September 09, 2007, 11:02:04 PM Quote from: atariman;175373Well, to tell the truth, I really shouldn't increase the boost at all. The engine has some lifter issues and who knows what other internal problems. I was only curious as to how one went about doing it. The exhaust manifold is developing a crack in the middle of it too. Well, as soon as the T-bird sells, I can change a few things on it, and get it ready to be refurbished. About that fitting, could a hole be drilled in it and have a bolt or something put in it to regulate boost pressure? I just put a bigger turbo on a friends 5.9L cummins and the turbo had that fitting with an "adjustable" alan screw. Would this work for ours?BrianDon't worry about doing anything to that fitting. You're not going to gain anything by drilling a hole and putting a bolt in there. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #65 – September 15, 2007, 10:03:15 PM Quote from: Chuck W;175350Stock you don't. The early non-SVO cars had a fixed boost set-up from the factory.An "easy" way is to replace the fitting on the turbo compressor housing (the one with the hose that runs to the wastegate actuator), with one of the 2-port fittings from a BCS-equipped(Boost Control Solenid) car. The extra port on that fitting is a bleed orifice and reduces the signal to the WGA, thus it opens later. I just connect the extra port to a fitting on the turbo inlet and leave it at that. That's usually good for 15-16# boost with little fuss.Another way is to get a Manual Boost Controller, such as a Gillis. It is a spring-ball type that you put in the signal line between the turbo compressor and the WGA. The spring holds the ball against the seat until a certain boost pressure is reached and then sends the boost signal to the WGA. The benefit of this is that the the WGA will not see boost until the set level is reached. With a bleed type (as explained before) the WGA will start seeing boost signal sooner and begin to open the WGA flapper (to start releasing boost). Driveability and boost response is improved with the spring-ball type, but the other works well on the street too. I just ran the bleed type I mentioned in my turbo Ranger.I might have an extra one of those 2-port fittings.You don't want to go too high on boost with the stock fuel system and the smaller injectors. You'll be pushing the limits.That fitting, is it just something I can make, or something special? I put a boost gauge in and max boost is 10-11 psi. If it's something I can't make, I am interested in getting that and the steering wheel. thanksbrianor would it just be better all around to get one of those gillis things. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #66 – September 16, 2007, 03:45:02 PM The fitting has a "calibrated" bleed orifice in it. Like I said, I probably have an extra, I'll just toss it in with the wheel.As far as the Gillis goes, I have seen and purchased/used one of the el cheapos off ebay and it worked fine for me. I think I picked up one for $10-15 and used it on the XR4 when I had it. Something adjustable would be good juct because you are kind of limited at the moment by your fuel system. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #67 – September 17, 2007, 10:32:13 AM So my fan quit working when I put my mechanical gauges in, and trouble shot it this morning with my test light and found out that if I ground the wire that should have gone to the temp sensor, the fan kicks on. So I grounded it and it works all the time now with the key on. Is this ok to do? I know this should've been in the electrical thread, but I figured I already got this one......so...input? Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #68 – September 17, 2007, 10:43:39 AM i've had to "hard wire" fans before. it's not going to hurt anything being on all the time, but it'll take longer to reach operating temp. in the winter, that's a bitch. i swear these motors are cold blooded. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #69 – September 17, 2007, 11:31:59 AM You took out your fan switch and installed the sender for the gauge in it's place?There is no need for the fan to run all the time on these things. As mentioned they can be pretty cold-blooded as it is sometimes.At the very least wire in a switch to that ground wire so you can turn it off when it's not needed.Another option would be to relocate the fan switch. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #70 – September 17, 2007, 11:48:01 AM Quote from: Chuck W;176779You took out your fan switch and installed the sender for the gauge in it's place?There is no need for the fan to run all the time on these things. As mentioned they can be pretty cold-blooded as it is sometimes.At the very least wire in a switch to that ground wire so you can turn it off when it's not needed.Another option would be to relocate the fan switch.when i sold my 85, that's how it was set up. he knew about it and was fine with it. about a month later, his wife took it for a drive and overheated it. you have to be careful with that type of setup. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #71 – September 17, 2007, 01:44:38 PM I will wire in a switch this weekend prolly, just needed it to work for the drive to work and back until then. I wanted to take the temp sending unit out but someone else tried before me and rounded the all off. So I just took the fan switch out and didn't realize it was what it was until this morning when it got hot. Thanks allbrian Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #72 – September 17, 2007, 03:21:14 PM Why not just take your test light and see if it turns one when the car is at the right temp. If the light turns on then the sender is good. If not replace the sender. I don't really like the switch idea. It will work in a pinch. I know how it is to have to wait until payday. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #73 – September 17, 2007, 07:45:02 PM Well, its not the payday thing, but weekends are my days for playing in the garage. well, Saturday is really, but I took the sensor out to put in the mechanical temp gauge. I couldn't get the temp sending unit out due to the fact that someone else who worked on her before rounded off the edges. Soooooo...out the fan switch came. I didn't throw it away because when I pull the engine out to rebuild it or the trans, I can more easily get to that temp sending unit. The payday thing was last week.brian Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #74 – September 23, 2007, 05:23:45 PM There is a box right below the air filter. I assume its the charcoal canister thing. Do I really need this or can it be romoved with no real side effects? Also, if someone could, post some pictures of where and how they rigged up an intercooler to the pre-intercooler cars? I really want to do this mod, but need a better idea of how and where is the best place and things to use. Thanksbrian Quote Selected
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