Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #15 – April 08, 2008, 04:45:55 AM your yellow wire came up back on my curise thread and we found the colors did not agree with the evtm or shop manual (yours and mine). I had to follow my shop manual and ignore the evtm. There were a couple other wires as well with conflicting color coding. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #16 – April 08, 2008, 03:09:24 PM Tested my cruise today. Pushed the ON before I started the car.Started up and drove up to 40mph. Pushed SET/ACCEL and nothing, no cruise.Pushed ON then SET/ACCEL and cruise is working.Conclusion: the ON doesn't stay made until you push OFF. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #17 – April 08, 2008, 06:27:01 PM Nothing really complicated, just saturating an NPN when the input goes high (forgive my rough paint tool drawing). I'm driving a relay to trip the light, note the protection diode (and its orientation). Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #18 – April 08, 2008, 11:34:57 PM Quote from: softtouch;213120Tested my cruise today. Pushed the ON before I started the car.Started up and drove up to 40mph. Pushed SET/ACCEL and nothing, no cruise.Pushed ON then SET/ACCEL and cruise is working.Conclusion: the ON doesn't stay made until you push OFF.well duhhh, your not triggering anything with the car off:D I just tested my cruise also.with the car running............from a dead stop......I press on.........I drive for 4 miles and press set/accel.........Cruise comes on.with the car running .......driving about 10mph..........i press on...........i drive for a mile.........press set accel..........Cruise comes on.What does this tell you?I know that one of the wires at the amplifier is being held high 12v when on is pressed and the car running. We can figure out which one it is but thats the one that would be best suited for a parallel branch. It makes perfect sense at the moment,, perhaps later it wont but for now, it does. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #19 – April 08, 2008, 11:47:27 PM Quote from: Quietleaf;213143Nothing really complicated, just saturating an NPN when the input goes high (forgive my rough paint tool drawing). I'm driving a relay to trip the light, note the protection diode (and its orientation).what input?in that common emitter setup, youll have about 1.2ohms C-E when the input goes high (depending on the relay windings) but how high are we talking and from what source? Also, i dont understand the parallel 4.7k to the E either.I assume your dissipating heat at the base and the parallel branch to the emitter but i can udnerstand why. You said you were going to use a low nput source ,,i thought. maybe im wrong.Did you ever find the wire i mentioned that holds power to the amplifier when on is pressed? Im not talking about the servo here, never have been either. The servo is a whole different ball game and operates based on vac pres and moving a wiper which changes the internal resistance which then coordinates amplifier values in parallel with the coast / set accel / resume resistor pack in the right hand button switch assembly.Great thread,, Great Idea!!! I thought about it alot today while on the road. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #20 – April 09, 2008, 01:14:21 AM Lets see if I remember this right. To turn that transister on you need to forward bias the base to emitter junction and reverse bias the base to collector junction.With a +12v input on the 470 ohm resister the two resisters are a voltage divider. It makes the base more positive than the emitter and more negative than the collector. Thus turning on the transister. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #21 – April 16, 2008, 12:55:18 AM I am totally incorrect.I was unable to utilize any wire on the amplifier as a light bulb trigger when the on is pressed.And,, to add to the humor, when i put a test light from the wire i mentioned to ground,, and pressed "ON",,, the horn blew.:D duhh!! Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #22 – April 16, 2008, 03:19:17 PM Quote from: softtouch;213015The test proceedure in the shop manual has you hook +12v to the orange/yellow wire #144 to the servo modulating valve when testing the servo.See if you can get your meter on this wire. Hopefully it will only go to +12v when the amplifier is on.Did you try this wire? Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #23 – April 16, 2008, 03:22:33 PM Quote from: softtouch;213075Nope and nope.The LB/BK wire is floating (not hooked to anything) when none of the cruise buttons are pushed. The ON is a momentary contact. It only stays made as long as you are pushing the button.When the ON is pushed the voltage supplied is not directly from the battery. It coming THROUGH the horn relay coil. The yellow/light blue wire coming into the horn swt and speed control swt is the wire you ground to blow the horn.Beep Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #24 – April 24, 2008, 08:45:54 PM I tried taking a crack at it but I'm having a hard time finding the speed control amplifier. Does anyone know where it's located and/or an easy way to get to it? I want to connect a voltmeter to the orange/yellow wire to see how it behaves when I exercise the cruise functions. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #25 – May 24, 2008, 01:34:55 AM Bump. Can anyone point me to where the CC amplifier is? I want to take a crack at it but it's not obvious from the EVTM where the amplifier is. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #26 – May 24, 2008, 02:17:49 AM I'm pretty sure that's the unit I was futzing around with last summer troubleshooting my cruise. Under the dash in the driver's side footwell. Pull off that black plastic cover under the steering column, and its kinda up in there gotta look for it, plastic box abotu 3" square by maybe an inch thick, two wide plugs going into it side by side. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #27 – May 24, 2008, 06:44:13 AM That's the part,alright.It can be a bear to get to also.I remember pulling one for a member here off of my old parts car.No fun in that task. Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #28 – June 27, 2009, 07:27:52 PM It's been over a year since I posted on this, but I finally got around to building the simple transistor circuit. The power wire will be split, one going to the relay and one to +12V, since the only connectors I could scrounge were a pair of two-connector ones (they're deliberately reversed so a misconnection is impossible). It's supposed to be a nice day tomorrow, so I might try installing it.The wires don't go straight to the circuit board, since I didn't want to risk them being pulled out. Inside the box they're spliced with shrink-tube crimp connectors to the wires that actually go to the circuit board, with shrink tube put over those. The circuit board is held to the case with a mounting screw+nylon spacer. So this should be pretty bulletproof. My only concern is the current draw from the speed control circuit. I don't think it will be too much, but it's hard to say. According to the shop manual, we must NOT use a simple test light as the current draw will be too high and would fry the speed control module -- hence the transistor+relay design (though the relay might be overkill). Quote Selected
Considering next project (update: 7-14-09, new pics pg. 4) Reply #29 – June 27, 2009, 07:30:39 PM It's been over a year since I posted on this, but I finally got around to building the simple transistor circuit. It's supposed to be a nice day tomorrow, so I might try installing it.The wires don't go straight to the circuit board, since I didn't want to risk them being pulled out. Inside the box they're spliced with shrink-tube crimp connectors to the wires that actually go to the circuit board, with shrink tube put over those. So this should be pretty bulletproof. Quote Selected
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