loss of oil pressure. August 02, 2007, 12:34:23 PM when i start the car, the oil pressure comes up about half way on the factory gauge. after driving for a few minutes it starts to drop until it's not even registering on the gauge. i'm installing an autometer oil psi and boost gauge tonight to make sure that the factory gauges are accurate. i have a feeling that they are.... the valve train is pretty noisy at about 1200 rpm. it's quiet at idle and it smooths out with rpm, but at low rpm with a load, it's pretty noisy.my question is (i'm in the office now, otherwise i'd go look), do you have to pull the motor to pull the pan and replace the oil pump/clean the pickup? Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #1 – August 02, 2007, 12:48:07 PM Quote from: turboranger91;165476do you have to pull the motor to pull the pan and replace the oil pump/clean the pickup?Yes. Either that or drop the K-member, but you then have to recenter the K-member.I've done it before with the engine still in the car and it raised as far as it would go, but it was a PITA.Yanking the engine is pretty quick.I'd verify with the aftermarket gauge first, but if you're knocking, it might be a little late and the bearing are getting, or are already beat. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #2 – August 02, 2007, 01:51:46 PM Quote from: Chuck W;165479Yes. Either that or drop the K-member, but you then have to recenter the K-member.I've done it before with the engine still in the car and it raised as far as it would go, but it was a PITA.Yanking the engine is pretty quick.I'd verify with the aftermarket gauge first, but if you're knocking, it might be a little late and the bearing are getting, or are already beat.pulling the motor isn't a big deal, i just know that on some cars, you don't have to. i sure as hell don't want to get into recentering the k member. i will check with the autometers firs, but i think the factory ones are pretty spot on. i told the kid when i bought it that the top end noise had me concerned, but i chocked it up to being a 2.3t. on the way home, the factory oil psi gauge never came up, so i figured that it wasn't working. well, i guess i was wrong. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #3 – August 02, 2007, 01:59:39 PM Screw a 1/8 " gauge in where the sender is and check it.It will give you a quick answer. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #4 – August 02, 2007, 02:04:44 PM Quote from: kitzdnm;165496Screw a 1/8 " gauge in where the sender is and check it.It will give you a quick answer.i already have the gauge at home. i just need to uninstall it from my truck and put it in the tc. i've been wanting new gauges for the truck anyway. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #5 – August 02, 2007, 08:24:27 PM I've got the same problem, but the car's done it for 10 years or so. Don't remember the readings, but the oil pressure was/is fine in the car. Mine goes to the top of the red mark and sticks around there.My last employer had an older Econoline v6 that did the exact same thing. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #6 – August 02, 2007, 09:03:53 PM Cant count on any of the factory gauges to be accurate. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #7 – August 02, 2007, 11:42:09 PM you dont have to pull the motor to pull the pump.raise it up till the bellhousing stops you, block it at the mounts,, leave the cherry picker hooked up for safety,, place a jackstand under the harmonic pully,,, drop the pan and let it dangle around while you reach in there and undo / redo the pump and screen. install gaskets and done.remove your two rack / pinion bolts and let the rack drop another inch or so and you'll probably get the pan out,, but if not, you gain more room doing it. If it can be done on a 351 like i said with all the smog stuff still on and exhaust bolted still, it can be done on yours.And while your at it,, toss in some bottom end bearings if your old ones are looking shabby and your crank does not "feel" like a record.4 yours tops with beer.wierd part is reaching in there,, its like delivering a baby:hick:sorry chuck, i just have to totally disagree, there really isnt a quick engine to pull out there anywhere. too much shiznit to keep track of,, fluids involved, bellhousing stuff,risk of breaking exhaust stuff, setting up on and engine stand stuff, having help and stuff, flywheel stuff, wiring stuff ,, and,,,,,,,,,, well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just too much stuff!!!i prefer the "deliver the baby" method. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #8 – August 03, 2007, 12:47:53 AM recentering the k-member? Could someone explain that to me? Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #9 – August 03, 2007, 01:54:51 AM Quote from: booksix;165665recentering the k-member? Could someone explain that to me?i thought the same thing as you but then i said,, "well if chuck says it can be done,, i wont question it." Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #10 – August 03, 2007, 08:29:11 AM Quote from: jcassity;165656you dont have to pull the motor to pull the pump.raise it up till the bellhousing stops you, block it at the mounts,, leave the cherry picker hooked up for safety,, place a jackstand under the harmonic pully,,, drop the pan and let it dangle around while you reach in there and undo / redo the pump and screen. install gaskets and done.remove your two rack / pinion bolts and let the rack drop another inch or so and you'll probably get the pan out,, but if not, you gain more room doing it. If it can be done on a 351 like i said with all the smog stuff still on and exhaust bolted still, it can be done on yours.And while your at it,, toss in some bottom end bearings if your old ones are looking shabby and your crank does not "feel" like a record.4 yours tops with beer.wierd part is reaching in there,, its like delivering a baby:hick:sorry chuck, i just have to totally disagree, there really isnt a quick engine to pull out there anywhere. too much shiznit to keep track of,, fluids involved, bellhousing stuff,risk of breaking exhaust stuff, setting up on and engine stand stuff, having help and stuff, flywheel stuff, wiring stuff ,, and,,,,,,,,,, well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just too much stuff!!!i prefer the "deliver the baby" method.i was hoping that i could do you "baby delivery" method, but i'm just not sure that the pan on the 2.3 will allow for that. as far as your comment about there not being a quick engine to pull... you've obviously never pulled a 2.3. take my truck for instance... 91 ranger w/2.3turbo... 7 harness plugs, 2 motor mount bolts, and 8 bell housing bolts. that's it. i've pulled that motor in about 40 minutes. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #11 – August 04, 2007, 02:13:39 PM actually jcassity, I was asking because I don't know what is meant by "recentering the k-member." I would think it would be centered by just bolting it in... Doesn't the k have one fixed mounting position? Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #12 – August 04, 2007, 02:42:01 PM You can take it out, I did .Search , You have to jack it awhole lot.Take the driveshaft off,Rad out.Tran mount unbolt.Of course un hook motor at mounts.all wireing that might but will stretch.Pull up let tranny hang on floor. thats it.I do have to say this ,theres not more left of pullin the whole thing out.Oh yeh forgot unhook H pipe!! Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #13 – August 04, 2007, 05:07:23 PM This exact thing happens to my '86TC. I'd bet on a junk sending unit. Quote Selected
loss of oil pressure. Reply #14 – August 04, 2007, 06:22:26 PM Quote from: stuntmannick;166017This exact thing happens to my '86TC. I'd bet on a junk sending unit.you're right. the sending unit was bad. the nut that you tighten that is attached to the sending unit was tight, but the unit itself was wobbly and loose. i ripped it out and put in the gauges that were in my ranger (she's getting new ones next week). i'll make a separate thread on what all i did to the car today. Quote Selected
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