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Topic: Awesome Junkyard Score! (Read 3635 times) previous topic - next topic

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #15
wow, big surprise! Has anyone ever been to a JY with helpful workers?  Its like they dont care if they sell anything!  Are these guys all bored millionaires??!?

As for your problem, youll just have to take the plasma with you and take floor home too!  :D
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #16
Yea got all the main seat parts minus the drivers electric seat bracket.

Well, For some reason on this 87 XR-7 5.0, It's got 3 bolts of the same size which i have off already with no problem.
But, then has a Larger 4th one on the passenger side rear...
It also seems to hold or help hold down the belt assembly.
And then theres very thick steel plates that keep the belt assembly in place that are attached to the sliding rail, Which is covering the bolt. :punchballs:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #17
It's normal for #4 to be larger. You can't get an open-end wrench in there? Hmm. I wonder how much current you would need to get the seat motor to turn. It doesn't really require 12v. I wonder if a pair of (or three, or four) 9V batteries in parallel (NOT SERIES!!!) would get it to move. You could get everything you need at your local Radio Shack.

Edit: The EVTM is *such* a great resource. Okay, the front/rear motor is driven by two wires: yellow/white and red/white (that is to say, yellow wire with white stripe and red wire with white stripe). Connecting power to Y/W and ground to R/W moves the seat forward and connecting them the opposite way moves the seat backward. I would expect that you could connect a small power source (e.g. aforementioned 9V batteries) across them to move the seat. If you do that, make SURE to unplug the seat rack first so the rest of the car doesn't leech all the power away (and ESPECIALLY if the car has a battery or other power source of any kind connected)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
5.0L Speed density
Explorer intake
'92 Mustang GT cam
GT-40 racing heads
Unequal length headers
Custom-made duals
19# injectors
65mm TB
AFPR
T/C header panel
11" brake upgrade
T/C rear sway bar
Electrical mods: too many to list :D

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #18
Well i tried 1 9v that i had in my toolbox, And that sure didnt work, heh. :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #19
A typical alkaline 9V battery might have a capacity of 540mAh, which means it can supply 540mA of current for one hour. However, this does NOT mean that it can supply that current and not melt! For instance, it might only be able to safely supply 270mA for two hours (I'm just guessing here on safe current delivery, I'm only trying to point out that all power sources have limits on current flow).

The seat power is on a 20A fuse, but that circuit powers several things. I figure that 1A (that is, 1000mA) of current at nominal 12V *should* be enough to turn the motor, so I figure you need several batteries (once again, I'm guessing, but the point is that there is NO WAY that a single 9V battery supplies enough current), and remember, you're already at a 25% voltage deficit (9V instead of 12V). Power (watts) = voltage * current, and power counts here as well.

From the little research I've done in the last few minutes, it looks like a 540mAh alkaline 9V battery should be able to supply a similar peak current (540mA). So try three of them in PARALLEL. That might be enough.

It's worth pointing out that I'm assuming alkaline batteries. NiMh rechargeables don't have as much capacity or the ability to supply as much current. The best NiMh 9V battery there is has 305mAh capacity and similar peak current.



EDIT!!! I meant PARALLEL, not series!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
5.0L Speed density
Explorer intake
'92 Mustang GT cam
GT-40 racing heads
Unequal length headers
Custom-made duals
19# injectors
65mm TB
AFPR
T/C header panel
11" brake upgrade
T/C rear sway bar
Electrical mods: too many to list :D

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #20
Use the 9 volt battery trick, sit in the seat and puch or pull. You don't need the motor to move, only to " give slack " to move.

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #21
Thanks for the info!

Well i rigged up 3 alkaline 9 volts and soldered them in parallel, Then went out to my car and gator clipped them to the power seat slide control, It would initiate the motor and make a click but then nothing else would happen. :(

I have a couple 9.6v Rechargeable Battery's from my drill, Should i try and parallel those? :hick:

**Edit
Aha!, I'll go try that now on my car, Thanks Fila.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #22
whoa,
That was crazy...

I went back out and tryed the triple 9v again, Think i juiced it too much on the last try, Motor didnt even click and the batts started getting too hot.

So i've got this old 9.6v Makita Drill Battery, I hooked it up and as soon as i hit the switch the passenger side floor light came on along with the overhead, And the seat moved all the way forward like it was running off of the car batt. :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #23
Quote from: Romeo2k;159915
whoa,
That was crazy...

I went back out and tryed the triple 9v again, Think i juiced it too much on the last try, Motor didnt even click and the batts started getting too hot.

So i've got this old 9.6v Makita Drill Battery, I hooked it up and as soon as i hit the switch the passenger side floor light came on along with the overhead, And the seat moved all the way forward like it was running off of the car batt. :hick:


Crazy.  Did you get the frame?

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #24
Yeah,
Something awesome happened again today at the yard'...

As soon as i got there there i spotted a car that must have been put out last night, Right at the front of one of the rows...
And first thing i noticed on it were the light up emblems! :hick:

'83 Heritage 5.0 AOD, Just put out, First one to get to it. :banana:
Of course this happens when i'm basicly broke until friday... :punchballs:

But i got all the good stuffs i could afford!


The heritage had dual power seats, So i just went ahead and got the passenger power seat track instead of the drivers power track out of the cougar since it was free with the cost of the seat.
I'll use the power drivers track i already have. :)

Tripminder!


Emblems:

What's with the light blue one? It was randomly thrown in the interior, Mom thinks it's vintage.

Various Lights:



I'm going back Fri/Sat for more stuffs, has a perfect headliner, Woodgrainy dash stuff and un-cracked dash cover.

Also has vent windows... Im seriously thinking about them... Should i  swap my doors out for them at 30$ each? Passenger does have rusting issues on inner top.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #25
Do yourself a huge favor. Before you put the seat tracks in, sand the rust off, primer them, then paint them (I did mine in black). You'll be glad you did, trust me.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
5.0L Speed density
Explorer intake
'92 Mustang GT cam
GT-40 racing heads
Unequal length headers
Custom-made duals
19# injectors
65mm TB
AFPR
T/C header panel
11" brake upgrade
T/C rear sway bar
Electrical mods: too many to list :D

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #26
Are those clear marker lights?  !!

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #27
That did it,you've inspired me to get to the boneyard.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #28
Quote from: Quietleaf;160114
Do yourself a huge favor. Before you put the seat tracks in, sand the rust off, primer them, then paint them (I did mine in black). You'll be glad you did, trust me.


Will do. :hick:

Quote from: Ifixyawata;160115
Are those clear marker lights?  !!


Sure Are! Heres the crazy part on those... 2.50 each!!!

Quote from: vinnietbird;160118
That did it,you've inspired me to get to the boneyard.


Do it!
It was kinda hard on me today though, in about 95 degree weather w/ full sunlight on me, But the pain was worth it. :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Awesome Junkyard Score!

Reply #29
Man that's a good haul! That Heritage is sporting some RARE options. See the sensor in the console plate?