help with the new/old turbo swap June 15, 2007, 04:14:42 PM i got my 89' mustang that i did the turbo swap in,LA3 computer, and Big vane meter, injectors, mani and turbo,I think i ran into some problems when i did the re-wiring of the ECU ..or re-pinning, which ever.the car idles like , until you disconect the battery, whit the car running, idle seems to flattin out,car never ran very well sence the first day i put this setup together, and i can't seem to find out what went wrong, CE light is on, and i can't seem to figure out the code, AND, if i plug the VANE meter in, it runs worse. if i rember right when i did get what i think were the CEL codes were something about the vane meter, so i went and bought another on, it ran awsome for about 30 seconds, then ed out and went back to it's old ways.i want to make this motor run right, even though it's blown up, before my new motor goes in. at the same time, any one got a picture of how to route the PCV stuff along with the rest of the vacspooge lines so i won't blow off my PCV valve outa the tube ( or maybe that's the extreme blow by ) Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #1 – June 15, 2007, 11:07:32 PM Shoulda left the motor in a Turbo Coupe.Seriously, I have no idea what to re-pin for the swap, but a n/a Mustang uses a far different harness then a TC. Do some eletrical searches over at turboford. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #2 – June 15, 2007, 11:24:19 PM http://www.stinger-performance.com/turboswap2.html Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #3 – June 16, 2007, 12:02:19 AM The car still runs after you disconect the battery? I don't think it is suposed to do that on EFI cars. That can't be good. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #4 – June 16, 2007, 01:47:59 AM http://www.stinger-performance.com/turboswap2.html <--- that's the write up i used. step by step, i may just re-do it, all in all, come to think of it, i DIDN"T buy a new ECU...i wonder if that may be an issue.And yah ipsd, that's what i thought too, but i guess it's ok, my biggest problem is it runs BETTER, with out the battery and/or the vane meter,aerobird, long story short, motor is n/a origbuttstuff, turbo parts aren't, i gott em out of a junk yard, and i nearly cryed when i saw how badly this turbo coupe was treated.i'm gonna go over the wriing schmattic once more, and see what happend cause CEL on..and runs bad..i had to get a wire or 2 crossed. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #5 – June 16, 2007, 09:58:52 AM Quote from: ipsd;154596The car still runs after you disconect the battery? I don't think it is suposed to do that on EFI cars. That can't be good.Why wouldn't it the alternator is still supplying electricity. IT wouldn't be any different than if your battery went dead while driving. In fact that is a good way to check to see if your alternator is working. Though its not recommended cause its possible to damage the PCM.And it sounds like you could have a problem with your battery possibly. It sounds like when you disconnect it is relieving the strain on the alternator. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #6 – June 16, 2007, 10:04:02 AM Most of the EFI cars made have some sort of sensor circuit in the computer and if it says the batttery isn't conected then it cuts off. I know back in the old days you could take a batt start a car then take it ou t and the car still runs. Those days are gone. Atleast most EFI car are this way. Do you atleast have a 2.3T computer I think that the la3 is one. Not 100% but I think that is right. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #7 – June 16, 2007, 10:44:43 AM Well thats news to me I have never heard of any car that cut off with the battery disconnected. I have disconnected batteries on EFI cars several times and they keep running. Maybe on brand new cars but I know for a fact that these fox cars don't shut off when you disconnect the battery, unless the alternator is not charging properly. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #9 – June 17, 2007, 12:53:01 AM The car doesn't seem to run weak, it's charging at a full 14 V, i've tryed a few different batterys (cause one died, yatta yatta yatta) some cars shouldn't run wihout the battery hooked up because it takes power to make power, some have one way circuits.i'm 100% sure i got the right injectors and ECU/PCM for this setup, and VANE meter, i'm just not sure if it was all re-pinned correctly. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #10 – June 18, 2007, 03:59:28 AM OK, did some looking around, and can't find any info on why the car would run like this, Any one have a PCM for sale around here? that's gotta be the issue,and a full wiring harness to go with it ??side note, What web sites are you guys using for parts ? i found a few here and there, but wanted to know were you guys looked for cam's and such..P.S is going a 2.5 stroker kit an ok idea ? i found an entire bottom end kit for 1200$ complete with pistons, rings...every thing Oil pumps....stock ok ?? go high volume,oil pans...any one know where i can get a 7 qrt pan for a fox body ? Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #11 – June 23, 2007, 11:00:14 PM ok. Have you gone to the turboford.net site and talked to the guys there? Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #12 – August 11, 2007, 02:36:02 PM It looks to me like most of you are too young to remember GENERATORS instead of ALTERNATORS on cars. Alternator, yes, it self-supplies the field and produces MUCH more power than it can use. Generator, nope, gotta have the battery there to keep excitation on the field. Disconnecting a battery cable on an EEC-IV equipped Ford is generally a bad idea, though. Put your meter on the battery with one cable disconnected, you'll find it sitting somewhere very close to 12V. With it connected and running, you should see 13.8 - 14.5 volts. Now, bearing that 1.8 to 2.5 volt difference, that means current is going SOMEWHERE, and that would be into the batter to keep it charged. Disconnect the cable and you open circuit the current loop. Interrupting current does nasty things when you do the calculation dI/dt (change in current with respect to change in time). This creates voltage spikes and usually lets the magic blue smoke out of electronics. It's usually hard to do and expensive to put the smoke back in them. I'm a Ford hobbyist for over 20 years, and an electrical engineer for almost 30. Quote Selected
help with the new/old turbo swap Reply #13 – August 11, 2007, 02:55:34 PM Quote from: Old_Paint;167990 This creates voltage spikes and usually lets the magic blue smoke out of electronics. It's usually hard to do and expensive to put the smoke back in them. I'm a Ford hobbyist for over 20 years, and an electrical engineer for almost 30.you mean there is a way to put the smoke back in?? :hick: Quote Selected
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