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Spark Problems

I am only getting spark from the coil when I first crank the engine and when I go to shut it off. This is the same with the brand new coil I bought and the old one. Does anyone know what I should check?
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #1 –
prolly ign switch. try starting it and roll the key back off start slowly and see if it still runs if it does then that is your problem.
louie  :birdsmily:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]       
My famous last words:
It seemed like a good idea at the time.        88TC R.I.P.      88 Sport build in progress

Spark Problems

Reply #2 –
does not run at all right now lol

we just did the carb swap and are trying to get fire to the fuel. :]
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #3 –
Let me make a wild guess.
You have +12 volts to the Batt side of the coil in the ignition "run" position but not in the ignition "start" position.

Spark Problems

Reply #4 –
i believe he has 12v in start not in run at least thats how i took it
louie  :birdsmily:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]       
My famous last words:
It seemed like a good idea at the time.        88TC R.I.P.      88 Sport build in progress

Spark Problems

Reply #5 –
we will check with the multimeter
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #6 –
Quote from: softtouch;149065
Let me make a wild guess.
You have +12 volts to the Batt side of the coil in the ignition "run" position but not in the ignition "start" position.

Ding!

It's not the ignition switch, it's your wiring.  You swapped in a DuraSpark ignition as well, correct?
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Spark Problems

Reply #7 –
I'll bet it's the wiring. Carl, next time you see me on, I'll try to find out what ya did ok

Spark Problems

Reply #8 –
trying the canister coil tomorrow

I hope that fixes things :cougarsmily:
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #9 –
He has his wired EXACTY like mine. Only difference is the type of coil. He has a TFI and I have a canister. You need pics or anything let me know man.

Spark Problems

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Carl;149071
we will check with the multimeter


So what did the meter show?

Spark Problems

Reply #11 –
Everything checks out ok. We have had 3 people who are good with cars look at it. Everything checks out ok. been through 2 modules 3 coils and now I am going to change the ignition switch tomorrow and perhaps the rotor. If THAT does not work I am going to be thoroughly pissed and just send it to a garage. Then I have to Go to Colorado b/c I am running short on time before I have to be at my next base....

I guess I won't get to see her start for now :toilet:

lets just hope what I do tomorrow fixes it.
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #12 –
I think I found the problem, we were trying a distributor with a steel gear when our cars call for Iron ones which I just found out. Could this be the reason why the spark is off?
2013 Focus (Daily)
1968 Cougar XR7
1987 Turbo Coupe
5 Speed, Stock IHI, Aeromotive 340LPH, Stinger 3in DP w/Magnaflow 3in Race Series ler, Hallman Boost Controller, Corbeau Fixed Back Racing Seats, Rebuilt 35# Injectors, Kirban AFPR, Stinger's Front Mount Piping w/Big NPR Front Mount IC, 3/8 E-85 Fuel Lines, SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch, Explorer 4.0 Dual Core Radiator, Optima Red Top Battery
1988 Turbo Coupe (RIP)
1984 Cougar (RIP) :cougarsmily:
1986 Cougar XR7 5 Speed.  (sold)

Spark Problems

Reply #13 –
I am more of a trouble shooter than a parts swapper.

Your ignition module should have six wires to it and two plugs. If you have more or less wires you have the wrong module.

In the two wire plug:
The white wire should be hot in start only.
The red wire should be hot in start and run.

On the coil:
The Batt (red wire side) should be hot in start and run.

To make these checks without cranking the engine:
Remove the little red wires in the plug-on connector from the start relay.

If you have both start and run anywhere above you do not need an ignition switch.

Unplug the four wire plug from the ignition module. With your OHM meter check the resistance between the orange and purple wires going to the distributor.
If it is between 400 and 1300 ohms, the stator coil in the distributor is good.

Check resistance between the black wire and the purple, and the black wire and the orange.
Both should be greater than 70,000 ohms. (70K ohms)

The green wire in the module four wire plug should go to the Tach (green wire ) side of the coil.

Pull the center high voltage wire from the coil off the distributor cap.
Remove the distributor cap.
This will get the distributor cap, rotor and timing out of the picture.

Crank the engine.
Does the rotor turn?
Put the end of the coil wire near ground with out touching ground.
Do you have spark?

I don't know about the different gears on the distributor. It may make a difference in gear wear or something.
BUT as long as the distributor is turning it should have spark.

Spark Problems

Reply #14 –
Carl's not on, but I can help with some of this. I was on the phone as we tried to figure this out