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Topic: Rear seat baffle dimensions (Read 4718 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #15
How's this?

1988 Thunderbird Sport

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #16
and complete (For now. Will wrap when I can swap the JL out for an XA4000).

1988 Thunderbird Sport

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #17
and the Aurum Cantus installed:

1988 Thunderbird Sport

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #18
Man thats going to be one nice sounding car when its all done.
One 88

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #19
Its all back together now. Would like to pick up some tweeters and ditch the dash speakers, but they'll do for now. I need to finish getting rid of dash rattles and seal off the trunk...and replace the rearend which remains noisy as ever at all speeds between 15-60mph. Put up with it for too many years.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #20
So do you love that sound yet?
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #21
Needs more tweeter. If it was possible, I'd do kick panels for better imaging.

Other than that, it sounds great. Trying to decide whether I want normal foam or expanding foam for the back.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #22
I built kick panel type speaker pods for my doors They sound great. I have the 5 1/4" and a tweet in the  pods. They do get in the way when you get out of the car if you don't have much room to open the door. Then for the foam I liked the expand foam becasue it grows into the perfect shape you need to make it air tight and forms to the shape of the car. Also once it is hard it is nice and strong yet easy to cut and sand if needed. I also used it to stop the rear deck from rattling. I used masking tape to cover the holes so the foam didn't shoot out it formed to the tape and left a nice smooth finish that looks good when painted flat black.
  Never know regular foam might work better but I think it would be alot more work for not much of a sound or apperance gain. But do it how ever you want to. Also I added some metal strap supports at the bottom of the wood pieces to help tie them into the car. Durring testing in mine they sortta flapped alot. So I added the metal straps. That stopped the flapping but caused the reardeck rattles. I would like the kickpanels but that Damm E-brake pedal!!!! Just think about finding a way to tilt the speakers the direction without making then sitck out of the door very much. Also the higher in the door the better, less of an angle is needed. I used 1/4" pressed wood as the base then built up with 1" x 2" pieces to get the angle I needed. The make sure you have a flat surface to mount the speaker at that angle. The I filled it with the foam cut it to shape and sanded it to the finished shape the covered it matching material. Hope this gives you some ideas on how to fix what you are talking about.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Rear seat baffle dimensions

Reply #23
Finally dampened the dash trim somewhat and gave it a listen. That stereo sounds GREAT now. There's plenty of bass with the subs off, but the sound stage is pulled down to the floor with the 7" speakers down there. With the subs on, its pulled up to eye level and for some reason, I get a sensation of being pushed left and right when beatshiznit (not sure if its just me, or if the car's wobbling). A couple songs have annoyingly loud sub-bass at 30-40hz areas so some EQing seems needed, but other than that, its all great. I need to try bridging my amp though, and give the door speakers more than 25W at 8ohms/12.5v. I just don't think the speakers/tweeters in the dash can keep up though.
1988 Thunderbird Sport