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Topic: Step 1: Suspension. (Read 13393 times) previous topic - next topic

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #45 –
What ever you want man. Ya need help, ya got my number

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #46 –
Quote from: Ifixyawata;143637
They're $50 more at Summit.  Fvck that.  I might as well make these old ones work.


It would be more like only $30 more, since you wouldn't be paying for shipping, and since they're in stock you have them immediately.
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #47 –
He's right, but what ever you wana do B.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #48 –
Let me see if I can find another vendor for you...

EDIT:

But it looks like Summit is your next best deal. Especially if they are local to you.
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #49 –
Meh, now I'm undecided again.  One thing's for sure, though, if I do end up buying these, there's no room in the budget for the CHE Rears.  I'd feel better (safer) buying new fronts considering the deterioration that's occurred on one of 'em.  I forgot, I have a $15 SummitBucks coupon from my purchases last year, so that will help a tiny bit to offset the cost.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #50 –
Quote from: Ifixyawata;143927
Meh, now I'm undecided again.  One thing's for sure, though, if I do end up buying these, there's no room in the budget for the CHE Rears.  I'd feel better (safer) buying new fronts considering the deterioration that's occurred on one of 'em.  I forgot, I have a $15 SummitBucks coupon from my purchases last year, so that will help a tiny bit to offset the cost.


So you'd be at $285 out the door parts in hand (no waiting), obviously not counting tax. Do the math of what it would cost to refurb the old arms V.s. just buying the new parts, it probably would be about even. If anything you can just save up a little bit longer to get the CHE's. It's simply a matter of sacrificing a little now to get more in the long run.
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #51 –
I've been having visions of the front coil spring shooting out from the bottom of the control arm or some other horrific catastrophe, so the peace of mind, though it comes at a hefty price, is well worth it.  I think I'm going up to Summit today and tear up my reciept once I buy 'em before I change my stupid mind again.

Like I said before, $100 for quality ball joints, $50 for new bushings (though it's poly vs 'hard durometer rubber'), About $70 to get all the mentioned items pressed in.  My Taiwan press ain't going to do it.  So, $210 for a set of used control arms that have rusted out spring perches and are probably bent from my angry hammer.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #52 –
Your angry hammer, my swinging of the angry hammer B. What time you goin?

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #53 –
Here we go: Comparison

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #54 –
Good road trip to get the new ones though.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #55 –




Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #56 –
I guess this thread goes beyond just front suspension now, but oh well.  Myself, Fila and my other friend Mike spent a couple hours getting the front control arms in and getting the rear bolted into the car.  Because of the high price of the front control arms, I'm leaving the rear stock for now.  At least getting the rear axle in, I'm able to see how the fatties will line up in the back.  Its looking like I'll probably have to find some heavier springs for the rear unless I want to slice those tires open in short order.

I had previously thought otherwise, but it looks now like the front control arm bushings have little 'teeth' on the inner bushing sleeve as well.  Is it necessary to set the preload on the front just like you do on the rear?  Ya know what I mean, get the weight of the car onto the wheels before cranking down on the control arm bolts so the bushings don't bind?

PS - I don't know how in the hell I ever put that first 8.8" into the car by myself.  The three of us had a rough time with that one.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #57 –


Sorry to post more pictures that no one really wants to see.  Just wanted to show how wide these rear tires are.  Not sure if they're going to tuck up in far enough to rub or not, but I'd rather not chance it so new coils are in order.

Don't mind the two angry hammers, body rust, unhooked shocks, or vinnie's famous shredded paper packing material all over the floor.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #58 –
why do you have to buy new springs? have you tried rolling the lips? those look narrow enough to not rub at least the outer fender. you may have to flip the quad shocks, but looks like the tires will clear fine. 

and since you're using drag radials, i would suggest buying the air bag kit from summit for $72. it will increase the rate of your stock springs, and also give you the ability to "fine tune" the rear.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #59 –
Stock front springs are rusted and broke about 3/4 of 1 " coil on the spring" off. Rears sag IIRC. Might as well just get a new set