Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

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Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

February 19, 2007, 11:35:42 PM

Question #1: My drivers side power door lock buttons do not work. I push them both and nothing activates. Nor do I hear any clicking. HOWEVER, the passenger side buttons do work. HOWEVER: Those buttons only affect the lock on that door. They have no effect on the drivers side lock. What would cause this problem? It's almost like the power to the lock system in the drivers side door is gone.

Question #2: How difficult is it to change out the Ignition Lock Cylinder? Is it a tedious procedure?

Question #3: Would Having either dirty Brake Fluid or dirty Senors on the wheels cause the Anti-Lock brakes not to work? My anti-lock light comes on when I hit the brakes, and I've successfully been able to lock up the wheels, meaning the anti-locks aren't working.

Thanks to all who attempt to answer these fundamental questions in the world of Turbo-Coupery.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #1 – February 20, 2007, 12:07:17 AM

#1 - Definately the switch on the driver's door AND something else. If the buttons were good then the pass door would lock/unlock. The buttons and the actuator are on different wires. Grab a multi-meter and go to town.

#2 - Extremely easy in a Ford. Take you all of 2 minutes.

#3 - Absolutely on both. Flush the fluid and clean off the sensors.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #2 – February 20, 2007, 01:41:42 PM

Ok, here's another thing. The drivers side door sags and appears to slightly..."angled" incorrectly. Trying to explain this using words is hard, so bear with me.

When I attempt to close the door, clearly it's sagging towards the back of door. (The part of the door where the handle is). When I do shut it, metal contact is made, as a very unpleasant sound is heard. The strange thing is the top right hand part of the door is too far "in" and the bottom right hand part of the door is too far "out". Like the entire door has been "turned" inward. With the top part of the door being "in" too much and bottom "out" too much.

What's really strange though is the bushings in the hinges look fine. Don't appear worn, and I even tried feeling for sway in the door by lifting on it. There was no play in the hinges. When I lifted on the door, the entire car lifted up. If the bushings were worn, I figured there would be at least some empty space in which I could move the door up and down. There wasn't. I don't want to replace the bushings if that's not the problem. But I don't know what it would be?

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #3 – February 20, 2007, 02:14:13 PM

Perhaps the door just needs to be re-aligned.Has it ever been in a wreck that you know of?The bottom hinges go bad on a lot of thse cars.I'm getting ready to replace my driver side lower hinge in the next couple of days.....I hope.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #4 – February 20, 2007, 02:24:07 PM

There's a LOT of adjustment room in the hinges.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #5 – February 20, 2007, 03:19:26 PM

I don't think it's been in an accident, and the carfax I got before I bought the car didn't show any wrecks. There's some denting on the drivers side, so it might have hit something in past, but not significant.

I'm assuming it would be at easier to change out the pins in the hinges if I just took the whole door off right? Also, how on earth do I get to the bolts holding the bottom hinge onto the Frame? That spring loaded thing is in the way, and it looks near impossible to get anything down there.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #6 – February 20, 2007, 03:46:49 PM

Gotta take the fender off.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #7 – February 20, 2007, 04:14:20 PM

The pins can be changed on the door if you have someone helping you...it's not a fun time but not like it's a heater core change either. I held my doors up for about 25 minutes each while the body guy changed the pins. It sucked...but they're done now.

However, I will concur that it is easier to change them off the car.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #8 – February 20, 2007, 07:42:29 PM

Ok, here are some pictures to illustrate my frustrations:

Oh, and btw, would sticking a foot long turn down at the end of this ler help with my loudness problem? The resonance inside the cabin is too much for me to bear right now.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #9 – February 20, 2007, 08:51:22 PM

looks like if you shim the bottom hinge it would fix the problem, as far as noise, its gonna be loud till you get it out the back.might be a little better if you stuck it out the side.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #10 – February 20, 2007, 09:20:05 PM

I have the same type of problem on my Cougar. The lines at one part of the door are perfect. Go to the other side and they are off. The gap on the front of my driver door is straight and even. The gap on the rear of that door is messed up. The body line flows through the fender to the door but is slightly off at the rear of the door. Also there is a HUGE gap between the top of the door and the roof. My dad says it can be adjusted out. But when you see it, you can tell is isn't that easy.

My thought is that either the car is sagging in the middle or the front subframe is bent a little. Either way it isn't an easy fix. Like your TC, my car hasn't been in an accident (reported anyway). Good luck with that issue though.

As for your door locks...with the constant open/close action the driver's door sees (much much more than the passenger door), a likely cause could be the wires in the door to body wire harness. Due to cost savings, manufactures use as little wire as possible and sometime leave too little wire. So with the opening/closing of the door the wire stretches and over time can snap or tear. I've seen it in a few cars. If you hit the right wire it could cause this concern. The switches share the same ground so it isn't a body ground to the door. If that wire, plus one of the two wires that control the driver door actuator break, then your issue will be present. I suggest inspecting the wires in between the door and the body.

While you're out at the car...give the 7-8, 9-0 buttons a push on your keyless entry pad and see which doors, if any lock. It could be a bad keyless entry module.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #11 – February 20, 2007, 09:56:29 PM

The keyless entry buttons don't seem to work either. I push the buttons...and nothing. Not even the lights. But I fail to see how that would affect the lock buttons?

And uh, "daboss", where do you suggest I stick a "shim"? The bottom part of that hinge, or the bottom? I suppose a penny would work.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #12 – February 20, 2007, 09:59:51 PM

as far as that goes, pull the door panel, and start looking for loose connections, broken wires, and check like he said the wires in the boot.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #13 – February 20, 2007, 10:22:39 PM

Looks to me like you just need to adjust the striker bolt in the door jamb. Needs to go toward the inside of the car about 1/8". Torx T50, loosen very gently, then wiggle...takes about half a minute, make sure it's nice and tight.

Pulled Two Codes...Both EGR Related...suggestions?

Reply #14 – February 20, 2007, 10:28:00 PM

Already tried that. Didn't work. It still sagged, and because one part of the door is more "out" than the other, moving that striker bolt only exaggerated the problem.