MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Topic: MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics) (Read 901 times) previous topic - next topic

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

February 01, 2007, 06:47:31 PM

I finally got around to pulling my (stubborn) fan's plug off and looking at it. The fan just didn't flow very much. When I originally hooked the fan up through the DCC controller with the green and right most black wire, it popped a 30A fuse straight out of the fuse holder, but black/black worked fine as I left it at that. Just want to verify that the green one IS the high speed + wire, even if the DCC unit isn't supposed to draw spikes of current like that.

Also, what would you all recommend as a grounding point under the hood thats easy to modify? Adding a headlight relays, fine. Foglight relays, pushing it. Electric fan, controller, etc is too much. Just need a good grounding point for multiple ring terminals, preferably one on each side of the car. My grounds are starting to look like this:

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Reply #1 – February 01, 2007, 07:39:09 PM

I'm getting ready to start grounding my car for stereo noise reasons. I'm running a starter wire from my battery ground on my motor to the frame, and then another wire from the frame underneath the floor pan to a bolt that will go up through the floor. From there i can ground just about anything. Mainly my stereo, CB, and amplifier. Eventually I'll probably run a wire too the trunk too.

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Reply #2 – February 01, 2007, 08:14:32 PM

Not so worried about that (have no ground loop issues myself), just need a couple spots to ground everything, plus relays. That bolt in the picture above is grounding 6 wires.

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Reply #3 – February 03, 2007, 02:21:35 AM

look down where the power steering hose is clamped to the the frame. there are several holes there that you can run a self tapper into and add grounds. Im gonna yeat again rant something most people think is minor. If your complaining about the ampacity of things and you dont even take the time to remove the paint , your gonna continue with problems. The tang of a lug is meant to be a certain size for a reason.... you dont just stuff a screw in a ring lug and crank down on it.

nevermind,, rant over : )

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Reply #4 – March 06, 2007, 11:37:18 PM

Gotta go with jcassity on that. They are sized according to current rating. Albeit, you should never seen enough current to harm the lug before the wire turns into a light filament (for a very short period of time).

Here's a novel idea. See all that sheet metal right next to that one screw? Have you thought about drilling a few more holes, and as jcassity said, burnish the paint, and install a few more screws? First of all, with that many lugs under one screw, you've got impedance. Clean 'em as much as you want, you're gonna need to get 'em cleaner if you can't properly torque them down and avoid the corrosion that WILL happen in a stack like that. I would NEVER put more than two wires under one screw. You're just not gonna get it tight enough to avoid the corrosion without distorting the top ones before the bottom ones are tight. Corrosion or loose connection = impedance. Impedance = noise. Noise = something malfunctioning.

Drill the holes, burnish the paint, but treat it with a good electrical contact grease such as NoLox or Mobil Lube. I'm an electrical engineer in heavy industry, and trust me, you don't want corrosion where it's going to occur there. What I see is a fire waiting to happen. Don't put too much grease. Just a very thin film you can see through. The grease is NOT conductive. It just prevents corrosion at the contact surfaces.

MarkVIII Fan & grounds (80KB pics)

Reply #5 – March 07, 2007, 02:15:12 AM

Already taken care of, the above was just a temporary thing that I had to get a location and parts for before fixing. Now I need to move my alternator power wire to somewhere other than straight to the battery as its causing massive terminal corrosion (3G). If I can get a smaller ring terminal for my 0 gauge wire, I'd mount it back onto the starter relay, but shaving them down can only do so much (currently they are shaved to 1/8-1/16" deep but around the stock width still).

All my grounds are fine now, and there's 0 ground loop problems with my amplifier, even with the headunit at max. Amp is grounded behind rear seat. Running ground wires from panel to panel really helped cut down resistance around the entire car. Sound deadening it starting tomorrow

125sqft RAAMmat and 81sqft ensolite foam to start. Not touching floor, trunk (sealing off/IB), or headliner.