My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Topic: My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep. (Read 6423 times) previous topic - next topic

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #15 – December 24, 2006, 02:56:46 PM

alright great tips everyone thanks!

cragar,

my o/r h-pipe has a threaded hole for an O2 sensor so thats taken care of.

unfortunately im now at a halt again. i cant get the dowel pin out of the old cam. i even put a lot of duct tape around it and used pliers but it wont budge. can i get a new one at an auto parts store or i would i need to go to the likes of a machine shop or something similar to get that?

other than that the cam is lubed up and ready to go back in, kicking off the second half of this--throwing it all back together.

and NO actually it didnt ping! the engine actually ran very smoothly and had good smooth power (well relative to a geo metro i guess

)

im really looking forward to having more oomph up high, ill never forget testing the 0-60 with the G-Tech, with the thing seeming to just CRAWL from about 50 to 60 mph and then of course the resulting 9.48 seconds

i dont remember. will i still have a decent amount down low? all i know is that the hp goes to 225 and torque to 300 but no idea when that happens!

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #16 – December 24, 2006, 04:22:21 PM

Bottom end will still be there, but if you can grab up an 8.8 outta T-bo coupe It'll be better! About that dowel pin...The cams I've got came with their own pre-installed...? but you can always just get a piece of TGP ( turned ground polished) round stock that diameter at a metal yard or possibly even like a lowes or somethin'. Maybe a parts store would even have it. You can also try heating up the metal around the pin and try pulling it like that, don't heat directly on the pin, heat around it to swell the bore it's seated in. PS- I'll go to the garage right now & if I can find one I'll mail it to you for $50........................Nah, just kiddin' If I've got 1 you can have it, but my garages are pretty messy.I'll let you know.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #17 – December 24, 2006, 04:45:07 PM

Well, I found one still in a cam, but since I'm outta gas in my torches I can't heat it up to try & get it- Gonna get gas after the holiday. The pin diameter is .312" = 5/16, & I know the Lowes here has some. I did smell ( since I tried a lighter) what seemed to be loctite on the pin so heat otta do it. Sux that cam didn't come with one though.Probably like to get this done over X-mas break, huh? About what...I forget who said it...that other guy said about your distributor just line your rotor up with the # 1 on the cap & note where that is in relation to the 2 spring clips that hold the cap on and install it so the rotor winds up there. Though you will probably have to start feeding it in the hole with the rotor 30-45 degrees counterclockwise from there since the gear is helical and the shaft will rotate as you mesh the teeth and push it in. This will be close enough to start the vehicle and then immediately Time it with a light.-no big deal.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #18 – December 24, 2006, 05:55:16 PM

Quote from: Jamezilla

but if you do advance it your gains will ALL be up high in the RPMs, just don't go more than 4 degrees

Gotta disagree on that............

Quote

Advancing and retarding the cam can move the power band up or down a few hundred rpm. Advance for more bottom end and retard for more top end. It usually takes about a 4 degree change for a driver to feel it. The second way is to change the valve lash. Tightening the lash will increase the top end power while loosening it will increase bottom end power. You won't hurt anything by tightening the lash but check with your cam grinder as to the maximum lash you can use before running off the ramp and damaging the valves. When making these changes, increases at one end mean decreases at the other end.

For more see here........http://www.camcraftcams.com/camshafttuning.htm

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #19 – December 25, 2006, 12:18:00 AM

okay well i think i'll leave the cam alone lol.

actually my relatives came to our house this year for christmas eve, and my uncle said the same thing--try heating it the shaft, obviously not the dowel, up! so i think ill do that. got a propane torch, so im sure i can get it hot enough.

thanks a lot for all the advice guys! MAN i cant wait to get this thing running. most of all i gotta admit i cant wait to hear the difference with this mandrel bent h-pipe, headers, and loud old 2 chamber flowmasters! my cousin whos 21 and was also here tonight (son of aforementioned uncle) has a 99 ish dodge 1500 and a straight pipe exhaust (from cat back), the 360 engine and its SO loud! i love it so much, ive been so jealous!!! and these s have dumps welded on em too! now everyone on the street will know this landbarge can deal it out too! i am just giddy.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #20 – December 27, 2006, 07:27:37 AM

Keep up the progress reports !!!

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #21 – December 27, 2006, 11:08:36 AM

oh WOOPS! lol

alright well the past couple days i havent gotten shiat done. well granted thats largely due to christmas. but, i also couldnt get that dowel pin outta the cam. heated it up though, clamped the dowel in my vice (has soft copper plates) and yanked and turned, and it popped right out!

went easily into the new one yesterday, cam went in just fine, then i tried to put the timing chain and gear on. *sigh* dont know why i didnt inspect it/realize this sooner, but the chain i got from advance auto is like two bicycle chains right next to each other, divided in the middle! meant for a split gear or something???? needless to say it didnt fit. so i returned it last night, they couldnt come up with anything else, the item pic in their comp didnt show a top down view.....

so im goin to napa today, maybe theyll know what theyre doing :disappoin

and thats all! didnt get far yesterday. well i guess its important--put the new injectors into the lower intake, sed the intake-to-head gaskets off of it, so its ready for re-installation.

hopefully today will be much more productive!

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #22 – December 27, 2006, 12:32:13 PM

Quote from: ZondaC12;120264

oh WOOPS! lol

so im goin to napa today, maybe theyll know what theyre doing :disappoin

.............:shakehead :shakehead :shakehead :shakehead :shakehead

You got what you asked for a roller chain for the HO(all are roller), the SO has a different setup... I'd get the gears to match that chain as well... They are available from Jegs or Summit as a set...

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #23 – December 27, 2006, 12:53:58 PM

d'oh!!! well my bad! guess its another thing ive learned during this! i just automatically assumed they were both the same. do you know why they had two different setups for each engine?

Update In The Morning....

Reply #24 – January 04, 2007, 12:37:20 AM

well a [detailed] update anyway.

been busy workin on it. gotta go to bed real tired. all together except for egr spacer and tb and dizzy, dizzy cap and wires. gotta put the computer in. worked on exhaust this evening. Problems. guess where? yup, SHIFT LINKAGE. (column shift)

find out in the morning how The Stupidest Mod Ever Witnessed By Man® barely saved the future of Paul's H-pipe, and thusly, Paul's ass.

PICS will be up too, dont worry. id like to think it will be running tomorrow but who knows. this week for sure. then hopefully a video...

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #25 – January 04, 2007, 02:00:24 AM

im gonna steal your car:beatyoass:

It Won't Fire!!!!!!

Reply #26 – January 05, 2007, 09:48:07 PM

okay ill get pics and stuff up soon, im real lazy about that stuff i just cant help it!!!:sorry: lol

but more importantly this afternoon i got it all together and tried to start it. didnt go. im going to describe what i heard. imagine cranking the car but you pulled the coil wire. so just the constant speed that the stock starter (i dont have a ministarter) spins it with a good battery and no assistance from any combustion. now everyone should know the song "Green Sally Up", right? okay take the beat from that song (so like almost once a second, like 3/4 of a second or so) and to the beat of that song, theres a tiny burst of "firing" if any fuel was indeed burning, anyway, on each beat.

so i checked my timing first of all. what do you know? LIFE LESSON: pull the spark plug and be sure you're at TDC for compression stroke!!! i moved it to TDC with a breaker bar, checked, piston was at the top, and the rotor was pointing completely in the opposite direction from the #1 plug wire. so i was "180 degrees out of time" right? so i fixed that, and now it just cranks normally as if you pulled the coil wire and it NOTHING else, bone stock untouched car, hood never been opened, brand new car, you just pulled the coil wire.

i sprayed a little bit of carb cleaner in the intake, nothing. sprapyed a little more, BANG! backfire out the intake. nothing violent, just a poof of smoke and a noise almost as loud as a snapper thingy you throw on the ground. doesnt that sometimes indicate valve timing is out of whack? but then i reassured myself of the fail-proof dot-to-dot thing with the crank and cam gears which i made completely sure i did right while i installed it, and physically looked at what position the cams were in for the valves of piston 1 and it made perfect sense. both valves closed, exhaust about to open fairly soon once piston reaches bottom of stroke

i think the computer is indeed the problem. opinions? the #1 plug, when i pulled it, was dry. shouldnt it be wet IF the injectors are feeding fuel properly? thats what you always check for with an engine right? "you got spark?" "is the plug wet?" etc.....

Eric, you did say the chance of it even starting with a mass air computer was very small so that and everything else seems to point to the computer. Might as well bring it back and try to get the right one again! No way to know but to put in the right one for sure.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #27 – January 05, 2007, 11:36:10 PM

I gathered up a Mustang and Mark VII computers before I swapped the H.O engine into my car.Here's what I was told....They are identical in every way (Speed Density) except for one,the Mark VII has a speed limiter built in,the Mustang doesn't,so,I'm running the Mustang computer.Speed Density Mustang computers usually sell pretty cheap on E-bay.If you ask people on E-Bay who are parting out Mark VII's to sell the computer to you,they usually will for a very cheap price.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #28 – January 05, 2007, 11:38:23 PM

One question,I did the complete H.O engine swap in my car,not the upgrade.BUT,in my project car,I'm going to do the upgrade.How did you move the A/C equipment in front of the radiator without opening the system (or is it possible?)?

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #29 – January 06, 2007, 12:51:21 AM

sure is!!!!

just unbolt the top supports that hold the a/c condenser down, pull it out (meaning pull it towards the engine) and swing it up to your left (the passenger side of the car).

look back at the pics i posted. it will end up like that. there are flexible rubber hoses on both the input and output lines of the condenser, as well as those weird connectors like the fuel line connectors. dont know what theyre called but theyre cool. they hold tight and can be rotated, which is essential in swinging the condenser up. what a godsend.

i would not have performed this if the a/c system had to be bled LOL no way jose