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Topic: My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep. (Read 6421 times) previous topic - next topic

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

PICS soon!!!! maybe later tonight
 
it actually begun monday this week. its finally torn down as of 10 minutes ago. to where the old cam is out, ready to put the new one in. (THANK GOD no nick marks on any bearings or anything, i was SO afraid id pull it out wrong)
 
i made all kinds of marks on the balancer and block and timing cover and brackets nearby so i know where the balancer, dizzy (haha i love that, first time using it) are supposed to be etc.
 
what do i do with the new cam? how do i put it in? theres the dowel pin and that line going all the way across that looks like sharpie marker kinda (but obviosuly is machining work) on both cams, and i used the line to mark with a sharpie where it was on the cam retaining plate. how much do i turn it (or do i not?) to account for the new firing order? placing both cams beside each other with the lines both parallel shows some but not all lobes in completely different places.
 
besides this all has gone good so far. just waiting for the headers, should come next week. :cool:
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #1 –
Good work so far.the lobes are different which is why the firing order is different.Did you start at TDC?I always do to keep my cam and crank lined up.Keep it up.You'll love it.Pics soon?Please?LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #2 –
Sounds like you're off to a good start!  I have a question....Are you planning on doing anything to the transmission?  The reason I ask is due to the fact that the AOD's equipped in cars with SO 5.0 motors have the governor that shifts at WOT at 46-4800 rpm's as opposed to the HO variety which have one that lets it go to 5000-5200 RPM (the governor in the TransGo kit will go 500 or so more RPM than the HO, but it's not recommended to be used without the full shift kit).  Also, do you plan on changing the rear end ratio or adding a higher RPM stall convertor in the future?

The reason I ask all this is it may haave bearing on if you want to install the cam straight up or advance it a couple of degrees for more power lower in the RPM range.  If you plan to keep everything els factory stock you may want to consider advancing the cam 2 or maybe even 4 degrees.  On many aftermarket cams it will make for a difference.  I'm not entirely sure if you'd even notice it with the stock HO cam which is why I say consider it as opposed to recommending for you to do it.  If anybody else can chime in on whether it makes a noticeable difference with the stock cam please feel free to tell me, err us.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #3 –
well actually a lot of them i realized were just for me in case i get confused on the rebuild lol but ill post em anyway!
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #4 –
more...................
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #5 –
rest of em.
 
the last 2 are of my little solution to the problem i encountered of no way to keep the engine in place while i undid the balancer bolt!
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #6 –
ive read a bit about what i can do to the tranny.
 
i would LOVE to get a 2400ish stall converter as everyone says, 3.55 or 3.73 gears and a shift kit....
 
but that depends very much on funds. this cost me about $650 which is a lot. i am now a college student and mom reprimanded me quite a bit in the planning stages of this, deeming it "wasteful and silly"
 
maybe this summer again depending on funds i might do those driveline upgrades. but definitely not for several months at least. maybe not this year at all. i mean i have looked on ebay and found some well under $200 torque converters by companies like "Alabama Torque Converter" and "Oregon Performance: got no idea of the quality of these! but there are others that are $300 or even $400!!!! unbelieveable. and i think shift kits go for ;ike $120 right?
 
ive also found deals on gearsets for like $20 or $30 so if i found that, closer to $100 on a converter and maybe even a deal on a kit on ebay it would be more likely but in terms of your suggestion on the timing lets say "no", i will not be upgrading the driveline.
 
oh and im sorry but im gonna need a little more in-depth guide as to installing this cam. im guessing i didnt "start at TDC". which piston? does it matter which stroke it's on? what else must i do? aka i need a list of EVERYTHING i must consider; everything that to you guys, is second nature, because for me it's those things are completely unknown. "cam install with a change in firing order for dummies essentially" lol
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #7 –
Nice! Looks all too familiar! I wouldn't worry about mechanicly advancing the cam when you put it in though. Used to be they'd retard them at the factory for better bottom end drivability and emissions. In an EFI they use sensors for that so it's no longer an issue, but if you do advance it your gains will ALL be up high in the RPMs, just don't go more than 4 degrees. So, are you goin' to mass air, or staying SD? I have one of each and can't tell a difference, all things being equal, that is. But now my mass air car has a few more upgrades- E303 cam + Ford racing aluminum Y303 heads, so it's a little quicker than the SD. Good luck, keep us updated.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #8 –
okay but i cant just throw it in, turned some random angle. it has to match up to the current stroke and piston in the firing order that the engine has stopped on right now correct? how do i find that out?
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #9 –
EASY- the dowel pin on the front of the cam where the gear goes on lines it up in the bore of the Timing gear. Rotate the crank so that #1 piston is at top dead center. Install your cranks timing gear ( lining up the correct keyway in the gear for the desired advance you want-if there are multiple keyways they'll be labled as to degree of advance- stock is 0). Now just rotate the cam until the timing mark on the gear lines up- dead nuts- with the mark on the timing gear for the crank. The crank's should be at the 12 o'clock position, the cam's at the 6. Use a 6" steel ruler for accuracy. Then remove both gears, put the chain on'em and work them onto their corresponding shaft fits again. This will get you as close as possible without using a degree wheel, which if you're not buildin' a race motor-you don't need.
 

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #10 –
Hope that helps, if not I'll get extra detailed, but it ain't hard. That "SHARPIE" line you spoke of is an oiling groove for the thrust washer. Also, you can pick up a B&M shift improver kit for under $60, and put it in yourself easily if you have a drill. The choices will be RV towing, & street/strip, go street strip.PS- I hope you got a new Timing set, since they go for like $50-$60, and it'll never be more convenient to do it! Oh, just thought of somethin' I didn't mention above, to find TDC of #1 quickly, just slide your balancer back on the crank till the keyway is engaged, then rotate 'till "0" on the dampener lines up with your pointer on the block, make sure it's 0, not 10!

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #11 –
yup i got a new timing chain, i was told i should probably do that. and WOW, the timing chain had some slack!!! about 3/4 of an inch! amazing. glad i bought the new chain!
 
oh and thanks for the walkthrough! very helpful, now i know what im doing! :headbang:
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #12 –
Good, cuz I just looked at an old Timing set that was factory original and the marks are all gone!-worn off by the chain. BTW- that's an enormous amount of slack- I bet it pinged when you mashed it-at least at first! Make sure you use assy. lube ( love that abreviation!)- on all the lobes and break in the engine with regular mineral oil- not synthetic, "cause the synth. won't mix with the lube, as the mineral oil has natural solvents in it that will break down and absorb the lube, where as the synth. will just chunk it up. good luck, & you'll notice a definate improvement, especially in the upper RPMs-where our cars usually flatten out and just make noise.

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #13 –
When you install the headers, what will you do about the O2 sensors? When I was planning on the HO conversion with my old '88 (which never happened), I bought this extension kit for the O2 sensors and never used it.
If I can find it, you can have it for cheap (if you can use it).
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

My H.O. conversion has FINISHED. she RUNS. yep.

Reply #14 –
Quote from: JAMEZILLA;119871
EASY- the dowel pin on the front of the cam where the gear goes on lines it up in the bore of the Timing gear. Rotate the crank so that #1 piston is at top dead center. Install your cranks timing gear ( lining up the correct keyway in the gear for the desired advance you want-if there are multiple keyways they'll be labled as to degree of advance- stock is 0). Now just rotate the cam until the timing mark on the gear lines up- dead nuts- with the mark on the timing gear for the crank. The crank's should be at the 12 o'clock position, the cam's at the 6. Use a 6" steel ruler for accuracy. Then remove both gears, put the chain on'em and work them onto their corresponding shaft fits again. This will get you as close as possible without using a degree wheel, which if you're not buildin' a race motor-you don't need.



Just as a note of caution before you put the distributor back in make sure you turn the rotor to where it should be after you have turned the engine over it wont be going back in the same postition as you took it out.

OR

If you havent already rolled the engine over you could put the dist. back in before you put it at TDC and mark it there to ensure its reinstalled properly. its not fun having to pull the dist. to move it a tooth at a time i can tell you that much from personal experience:pbb: