It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Topic: It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!! (Read 3694 times) previous topic - next topic

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #30 – January 25, 2006, 10:01:02 AM

Nice rig. And for $550, you can't go wrong.

A little piece of advice, though. If you're trying to sell the car for $800, don't say you'll be willing to go down to $700, if completely necessary. The buyer will always think it's completely necessary to get the lower price. Just say asking $800.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #31 – January 25, 2006, 10:02:01 AM

i got my c4 rebuilt with performance parts for 750... man newer trannies are a boat load to rebuild. and watch out. that was "995 plus exspenses", you should find out what "expenses" are before getting it done, or it just could be 2k anyway.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #32 – January 25, 2006, 10:45:23 AM

Those A4LDs must be expensive or complicated to rebuild. When I had the AOD rebuilt in my 20th Anniversary Cougar it was $833 total.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #33 – January 25, 2006, 09:10:34 PM

Well, the reason I said 700 if necessary is because I am really just aiming to get the money needed to fix the tranny. I have approx. $450 in the bank right now, and should I sell the car within the next two weeks, I should have at least $1000 all together. Then once my next paycheck rolls around, I should have approx. $1500 at the minimum, which would be more than enough to fix the transmission. Whatever is left over would go to replacing the front windshield, and fixing the locks.

Oh by the way, does anyone know how I can repair pieces of the rear bumper which have fallen off? There are several areas where the Yellowish colored bumper are showing due to parts of the black trim having fallen off. I've seen these Cans at Autozone which are supposedly rubber which can be sprayed onto the bumper to repair it. Would that stuff work?

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #34 – January 26, 2006, 11:22:32 AM

When my rear bumper started yellowing I just went to NAPA and got some sand paper and a couple cans of "bumper black" paint they had along with primer. You'll have to probably peel off the center piece on the bumper (mine is chrome but the TC's are different colors) and then get some adhesive to put it back on when everything dries. Make sure you tape everything off really well and apply several thin coats instead of one big nasty one. Also the more time you spend in prep the better it should look. I am by no means a auto-body man but mine looks resepectable enough to get me by until I can afford to get the whole car repainted. I don't know why the paint wouldn't stay on the bumpers of these cars. I've had to paint both of mine.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #35 – January 28, 2006, 05:46:32 PM

Well, after the nightmare that was removing the door panel, I was able to see that the rod that was supposed to be connected to the Manual Lock was un-hooked. I quickly snapped it back on, and presto! The lock now works. However, the keyless entry still doesn't work. When I push the last two buttons, It locks the passegner side door, but that's it. It doesn't move the drivers side lock at all. Also, I attempted to input the original code into the Keypad, but it to didn't affect the drivers side lock or passenger lock either.

It doesn't make any sense to me. Obviously the keyless system is responding to when I push the last two buttons, but otherwise, anything else I input into it does nothing...

Also, how does one remove the intercooler? I'm assuming you guys do this when changing the plugs. Otherwise it would be a tad bit...difficult.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #36 – January 28, 2006, 06:29:21 PM

you need too check the keyless module itself for the code if you havnt yet. theres a sticker on there that had the code that works with it. there may still be a sticker on the trunk lids pivot/support arm somewhere. my car still has it. the box could have been swapped out for another. the full 7 digit code should unlock both doors and open the trunk. do the doors and trunk open with the buttons/switches from inside the car? if not than maybe start checking the actuators themselvs. if the keyless is unlocking the passenger side door and nothing else id say maybe check the actuators. take the one out of the drivers side door and plug it into the harness on the passenger side and then try the code. id the actuator works than its a wireing problem in the driverside door or its harness or the moduel in the trunk. you could alwayshiznit a jy and get another moduel box and try that.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #37 – January 28, 2006, 07:02:38 PM

I know what the original code is. As I have said, when I put the code into the keypad, nothing happens. I try to open the doors but the remain locked. However, I did try to push the last two buttons on the keyless pad, and when I do, the PASSENGER side door does lock. However, if the drivers side door is unlocked and I do the same thing, it doesn't lock that door. Just the passenger side.

When I'm inside the car, the power locks work on the passenger side door but do nothing to the drivers side door. I can lock and unlock the passenger side door with the buttons, but not the drivers side door. Also, the button in the glove box that is supposed to open the trunk does not work.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #38 – January 28, 2006, 07:15:59 PM

Sounds like you have have a bad actuator. Probe it with a multimeter. Measuring the actuator itself for resistance and the connector into it for voltage when you push the lock buttons.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #39 – January 29, 2006, 11:44:53 AM

How difficult is it to remove the intercooler? I'm assuming to change the spark plugs, this is a necessary step. I can't really see any way to get to them easily without removing the intercooler.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #40 – January 29, 2006, 10:42:22 PM

Sorry for the double post, but I've got great news....and it doesn't involve car insurance....

I just sold my front end damaged, 1987 Ford Thunderbird 3.8l V6, otherwise known as the "beat you down from $500" car, for a cool $800 dollars. That plus the $500 paycheck I shall be receiving on Friday, AND the money I still have in the bank equals me getting the tranny on my Turbo Coupe repaired!!! Plus with the money I will be receiving from the Gov't soon, I will be able to get a new paint job, and windshield!

Mua ha ha ha ha ha!!!

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #41 – January 30, 2006, 09:20:52 AM

You got $800 for that???? Man I bet you could sell ice to a Eskimo...I've turned down far better cars for half that money...

On the keyless entry, my guess is you have the wrong code since the passenger door locks using the 7/8-9/0 buttons. Does the interior lights operate with EACH button??? Suppose its possible to have a bad keypad and maybe one of the buttons is defective that the code requires... You really need to verify the code from the sticker on the keyless module...

You'll have to get inside the driver door as it likely has a actuator problem, but that ain't gonna make the keypad work...

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #42 – January 30, 2006, 11:35:18 AM

Yesterday while playing around with the Keyless entry, I put the code that was on the sticker inside the trunk in. When I pushed the "1/2" button, the passenger side lock unlocked. When I pushed the "3/4" button, the trunk popped open. However, I still cannot get the drivers side door to unlock. I did fix the manual lock linkage so I can still use my keys to get in, but the keyless seems to have no effect whatsoever on the drivers side door.

(The key pad DOES work because obviously the code works. All the buttons light up, and as I have said, the original code for the car does seem to work on it. My problem is that the keyless entry does not seem to affect the drivers side door lock in any way. It can unlock and lock the passenger side door, as well as open the trunk. But it doesn't do anything to the drivers side door.)

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #43 – January 30, 2006, 11:50:22 AM

Then either trace the wires and test for voltage here and there, or have a closer look inside the door. Sounds like the previous owner locked himself out, and some nimrod with a slim-jim started yanking on anything he could reach inside the door, pulling off the key-lock linkage and likely ripping the wires to shreds.

It Arrived!!! It's Finally HERE!!!

Reply #44 – January 31, 2006, 12:19:43 AM

Listen closely when you punch in the code. Can you hear the actuator moving in the door? Maybe it is just unhooked.