2.3T Is Overheating!

Topic: 2.3T Is Overheating! (Read 3436 times) previous topic - next topic

2.3T Is Overheating!

February 17, 2006, 10:18:32 AM

Well, it isn't exactly overheating... It's still in the "Normal" range, but it's towards the top, and sometimes rises very close to the end of "Normal" during everyday driving. I've heard TC's run hot, but should I be worried?

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #1 – February 17, 2006, 10:22:14 AM

have you done basic coolant maintenance recently? flush and fill, checked for leaks or possible clogs, cleaned the radiator fins?

that is actually HAS water in it.. hehehe. j/k. give it a good once over, make sure everything is looking hunky-dory, also pull your water temp sensor and make sure it is clean.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #2 – February 17, 2006, 10:39:52 AM

As mentioned, what is the fitness of the cooling system?

I have yet to have a 2.3T run "warm"...I usually have a harder time getting them up to temp, esp in the cold.

Also, it could be the gauge/cluster itself. So the other gauges (fuel, oil press) appear to be "high" when the coolant temp seems hot?

A flush/fill and a new stat (192*) would be the first stop on this adventure.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #3 – February 17, 2006, 01:52:21 PM

Try running some of that "concentrated" system cleaner through it, that should help. My TC used to run really hot on regular coolant, I ran system cleaner through it and put in some of that "stops overheating" stuff and it ran more normal, although now I have a 70/30 (water/antifreeze) mix in there and it's pretty good. Actually it's like chuck said, tends to run too cool. When I put in my new radiator I'm putting in a 195 degree stat.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #4 – February 17, 2006, 02:23:25 PM

Based on my experience with a Turbocoupe what you describe is pretty normal...

My old 2.3 turbo always ran at about the just below the top of the range. I hated sitting in traffic in the summer because the needle would push up to the last mark before overheating and then the fans would turn on and the temp would drop to just above 3/4 and the whole process would repeat.

I wish I would've tried the Modine 3 row radiator that I have on my 5.0 bird and maybe found a clutch fan and shroud for it that runs all the time. Bottom line is that my 2.3 Turbo ran HOT all the time. Oh yeah, and that was with a big stacked plate B&M oil cooler and no AC.

If I still had my 2.3 turbo I would get a better radiator first. Probably a 2 row aluminum or a 3 row copper/brass radiator. Second, I'd probably find an after market fan controler so I could program the electric fans to come on at a lower temp. Or, as a cheaper alternative I'd try and adapt a clutch fan If I could find one for a 2.3 in a junk yard.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #5 – February 17, 2006, 04:42:49 PM

The factory fans aren't that great, which is part of the problem, and they're programmed to come on at too high of a temp (and most of the time, only one fan comes on).

I don't like sitting in traffic in my car either because it does tend to heat up really bad...even when the fans kick on it doesn't get much better. I'm hoping the 3-row radiator I just bought, along with my existing dual 12" fans, will help fix that problem.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #6 – February 17, 2006, 06:27:00 PM

Quote from: Red_LX

The factory fans aren't that great, which is part of the problem, and they're programmed to come on at too high of a temp (and most of the time, only one fan comes on).

also, are both fans working? on mine the secondary fan died and it would run hot but not over heat unless i beat on it, id start simple and check if it comes on.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #7 – February 17, 2006, 09:58:44 PM

Well the second fan isn't supposed to come on unless the A/C is turned on, and then it's supposed to kick on 10 degrees above the point the other fan comes on (something like that). However on my car I couldn't get the second fan to EVER come on even if the temp gauge was maxed out, it would only come on if I hard wired it.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #8 – February 18, 2006, 03:13:53 AM

I had both of my fans wired together so they would come on at the same time. It still ran hot. The temp just dropped quicker when they came on than when only one fan would come on.

Red_LX, let us know how it works out with the 3 row... Even though I don't have the TC anymore I've always wondered.

I'm thinking a big reason why the 2.3 turbo runs so hot is because the 87/88 IHI turbo's center section is water cooled. That's alot of heat being transfered into the cooling system.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #9 – February 18, 2006, 10:51:32 AM

The 84-86's with T3's were watercooled also.

Its just how they happen to run, each one does its own thing.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #10 – February 18, 2006, 11:44:07 AM

Not all of them were. My 84 XR-7 was not, but the 85 TC I had was...

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #11 – February 18, 2006, 12:20:15 PM

My car is fine as long as you're moving at a decent speed. It just seems like if you're doing 30 mph or less (like when you're driving through a parking lot or whatever) or just sitting, it heats up quick. That's a problem I've been fighting ever since I got the car. The annoying thing is that it actually runs at less than 180 degrees (according to the gauge), but it's over 200 in a minute or two if you slow down and drive through a parking lot, for example.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #12 – February 19, 2006, 03:04:41 PM

when my 88 started running hot, i flushed the system which didn't help much. i then installed a 3 row copper/brass radiator and a 180 stat as well as wiring both fans together. now on hot days sitting in traffic it never goes over about 200-205 (aftermarket gauge) i know part of the problem was/is the lower air dam is broken off which affects airflow into the radiator on these cars.

2.3T Is Overheating!

Reply #13 – February 19, 2006, 10:36:43 PM

The cooling fans work as follows:

"The 4 blade fan is suppose to come on around 200-210 and go off at 190. It should also come on whenever the A/C is turned on. It should also run briefly every time the engine is started. The 7 blade doesn't come on until 220 and goes off at 210. It also comes on when the A/C head pressure reaches 310 psi. They are controlled through the EEC by the ECT (engine coolant Temperature sensor which is on the lower intake inbetween #2 & 3 fuel injectors. I believe if you pull the connector to the ECT and jumper across the two terminals (key in the run position), the fans should come on.You can check the fan motors by disconnecting the harness's and running 12V straight to the fan. The connectors and wiring do go bad."

If there is a question of the fan motors running see:
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Cooling_Fan/CoolingFan.htm

If the fans ran when you jumpered the ECT connector that means the wiring, relays and fan motors are good. If the fans don't operate as they should if is most likly the ECT. A bad ECT does not always throw a code, has to be real bad before it does.

When is it getting warm, around town? or highway cruising?
If it;s high way and yoiu have enough coolant, then is the black spoiler under the bumper in place. If it isn't attached, the car will run warm/hot at high way speeds.

I'm in northern Ohio also and this time of year both of mone tend to take a long time to even get into the normal range

Easy fix to over heating problem.

Reply #14 – February 26, 2006, 02:46:15 PM

I used a dual fan setup from a diesel vw golf. They are two speed fans, with one motor. The second fan runs off a small belt. It works great, fits the stock rad really well, and I just run them off a three way toggle switch.