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Ignition problems

The car is doing some really strange things and as much as I need improvement on the mechanical part of working on these cars, any electrical problem is just out of my league.

First about the car.  The ignition has been kind of “free flowing"  since I’ve had the car.  What I mean is – you never really feel any indents such as “Off”, “Run”, “Acc”, or “Start”.  The thing just kind of moves on one fluid motion. 

For the last year it hasn’t been a big deal really, since the previous owner installed a push to start switch.  He bypassed the clutch safety and wired straight to the starter (I think it screwed up the cruise as well, but that’s a problem for another day).  That being the case you just turn the ignition on, and push the button.  I have been putting off changing the ignition because I assumed you would then have to have an additional key for the new ignition (is that correct, or can you rekey the ignition?)

Lately the car has been running really strange.  If the ignition isn’t in just the right spot both the radio and clock go off, or the car will start to die.  This isn't just on start up, it can even happen going down the road.  I was thinking it was just time to suck it up and change the ignition, but in the last few days it has gotten worse.  Now if I put on my brights or occasionally if I use my blinker, the car tries to die.  Also if I pull on the steering wheel, say in a turn or getting out of the car, it tries to die as well.

So my question is, do you think a new ignition would solve the problem, or is it in the blinker switch or even worse?


As always ANY observations or suggestions are appreciated.

Ignition problems

Reply #1
Install a new ignition switch ASAP - they're well known for catching fire. Sounds like yours is shot
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Ignition problems

Reply #2
its a bit of a pain to get the old one out after someone steals all of your tools, but its not bad at all. I just changed my plug out and left the new one dangling and have just been using a screwdriver to start my car.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Ignition problems

Reply #3
I agree with thunder chicken. There was a recall on these which I forget the TB number on. Anyway I had mine done a few months back by the dealer for free. Nice knowing my car won't be in ashes at least for that reason.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]http://www.fquick.com/slicksport88
88 Sport - 5.0HO, Mass Air, A9L, 73mm C&L meter, BBK CAI, 255 lph pump, 1.7 roller rockers,Professional Products damper, Chuck W motor mounts, BBK shorties & H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 series, 8.8 rear w/3.27's, 93 Cobra M/C, BAER 13in. drilled/slotted rotors front and back, cobra calipers, Russell braided brake lines front & back, C/C plates, 03cobra rims, 255/40/17 Nitto 555's all around

Ignition problems

Reply #4
Thanks for the info.

One clarification – again since I am an electrical dumb@ss - does it sound like I can get by with just the ignition switch, or do you think I need a new key lock cylinder as well?  I realize it may be hard to tell just hearing about it.


Thanks again.

Ignition switch

Reply #5
The lock tumbler and electrical switch unit are seperate pieces.
As long as you have a good key then you can move the lock
cylinder over to the new unit and keep your old key.
BobNorway;)
There are only two tools you will ever need:
1) WD40
2) Duct Tape
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
If it moves and shouldn't, use the duct tape.

 

Ignition problems

Reply #6
If you do buy a new key lock cylinder don't get the cheapest piece of  available.  I made that mistake and it went bad pretty quickly and I ended up stranded.  The quality on a $7.00 part is too low for such an important item.  As far as I know you can take the new switch and your key to a lock smith and they can make the new switch use the old key.  There was a previous post about how to pull that off.  I had the same problem with my car years ago.  If you moved the steering wheel just right the car would die, or even hitting a hard bump could kill it.  Jason.