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Topic: Distributor and timing marks (Read 2391 times) previous topic - next topic

Distributor and timing marks

Ouch! I took out my hopped-up 3.8 '88 cat for a run the other day and all of a sudden the thing backfired and died. After a brief period I managed to get it started (it was running smoothly at that time) and I took it the remaining one mile home. Well, today I just tried to start it and it's no go now. I checked under the hood and discovered my distributor is a bit loose so I'm sure the timing is way off. Anyone with any suggestions? Where is the timing mark? Where should the timing be set? The motor has be modified (it's Cougar Smith's COTM and a list of mods are there) and I don't like the thoughts of destroying the motor by unknowledgable twisting the distributor. (I'd also like to get out of paying big bucks for a timing light I'll probably never use but once.)

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #1 –
You will never set it properly without a light.  Maybe you can  borrow one or just have the timing set at a mechanic for a few bucks.  The spec should be on a sticker under the hood.  Make a chalk mark on the crank indicator so you can see it.  The crank indicator is already numbered. Unplug spout connector with car off. It is basically just put the pickup for the light on #1 plug wire hook up power for light rotate dist until mark on crank indicator lines up with pointer.

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #2 –
No such sticker under the aftermarket hood. No stickers anywhere in the engine compartment. WTF is a spout connector?

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #3 –
Quote
No such sticker under the aftermarket hood. No stickers anywhere in the engine compartment.
Usually 8 or 10 degrees BTDC (see marks stamped on balancer) is okay. As it's been "hopped-up", you may need a slightly different setting.

Quote
WTF is a spout connector?
SPark OUT. There's a jumper plug at the end of the 2-wire bit right next to the distributor's main plug-in. With the jumper installed, the computer adjusts the timing based on what it thinks the engine needs. When the jumper is out, timing is locked at whatever the distributor is physically set to, usually 10 BTDC. This gives you plenty of time  :p  to set the engine's "base" timing without it jumping all over the place.

The jumper plug looks like this:
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #4 –
Quote from: MasterBlaster
Usually 8 or 10 degrees BTDC (see marks stamped on balancer) is okay. As it's been "hopped-up", you may need a slightly different setting.

SPark OUT. There's a jumper plug at the end of the 2-wire bit right next to the distributor's main plug-in. With the jumper installed, the computer adjusts the timing based on what it thinks the engine needs. When the jumper is out, timing is locked at whatever the distributor is physically set to, usually 10 BTDC. This gives you plenty of time  :p  to set the engine's "base" timing without it jumping all over the place.

The jumper plug looks like this:



Now only if I could get the engine started so I COULD time the ed thing.

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #5 –
Is it "loose if I really twist it" loose, or "I didn't tighten the bolt at all" loose?

Try kicking the engine over until the timing pointer lines up with the balancer's "0" mark, then mark the distributor body with a felt pen right in the middle of where plug wire #1 is (should be front and center) and #5 (rear center) then pop the cap off and turn the body until the rotor tip lines up with one of the marks. That should put you in the ballpark, or at least inside the front gate.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!
 

Re: Distributor and timing marks

Reply #6 –
Quote from: mjbtbrd
Unplug spout connector with car off.


this was said for a reason,, but in addition,, do not plulg it back in with the car running.

unplug the sprout conn with the car off
make any old mark you can at 10btdc on the Harmonic balancer
*if you cant see it, you might be able to turn the crank pully by hand till you can*
hook up the timing light
loosen the dizzy lock nut at the base(evidently it already is)
*if you cant get it running , turn the dizzy a little at a time till it starts*
start car
adjust dizzy till your mark fall right under the timing pointer which is located at or about the 11 o'clock position looking directly at the crank pully.
lock down the dizzy by tightening the base lock nut.
shut car off
hook sprout back up
remove timing light
start car
done


IF you still cant get it started...........
rotate the crank with a socket and breaker bar clockwise till the timing pointer is on zero. (crank could be turned by hand with a broke in motor)  Now rotate the crank ccw and you might find it to be rather easy to move till all of a sudden there is resistance.  You must stop turning instantly when you feel this resistance. When you stop you will find the timing pointer is pointing to a number on the harmonic.  This will indicate the number of degrees your timing is off due to a stretched timing chain.  If the slack is greater than,,,,,X degrees,,,,,
>>>>>insert standard allowance here cause it dont know<<<<<
your chain "might" have jumped a tooth but ive only seen that once.
My coug was off nearly 25 deg due to a stretched chain.