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Topic: Transmission Question (Read 758 times) previous topic - next topic

Transmission Question

I just got a lead from another website that a loose flexplate could be the source of the knocking sound I've been getting forever.  Seems like a simple enough thing to fix.  Only thing is the Chilton manual doesn't have a specific procedure for just getting to the torque converter.  Can that housing be taken off without draining the fluid?
1983 Thunderbird-302 HO, Holley 650 CFM 4150 DP, Weiand Stealth Intake, Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner,  Holley Fuel Pump, Procomp HEI Distributor, B&M Holeshot 2400 Converter, Custom 2 1/4 duals with no cats and BBK shorties, Taurus Fan Conversion, FMS Grill, much more to come....


"In the future, I plan on taking more of an active role in the decisions I make" - Paris Hilton

Re: Transmission Question

Reply #1
Almost forgot, I have a 4SP Automatic Overdrive.
1983 Thunderbird-302 HO, Holley 650 CFM 4150 DP, Weiand Stealth Intake, Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner,  Holley Fuel Pump, Procomp HEI Distributor, B&M Holeshot 2400 Converter, Custom 2 1/4 duals with no cats and BBK shorties, Taurus Fan Conversion, FMS Grill, much more to come....


"In the future, I plan on taking more of an active role in the decisions I make" - Paris Hilton

Re: Transmission Question

Reply #2
You've got to separate the tranny from the engine to get at the flexplate-to-crank  bolts if those are what's loose. First you have to remove the converter-to-flexplate nuts (you can get at them by removing a small cover, then rotate the engine until the nut is accessible, and keep rotating it until you get all four nuts. These nuts could cause the knock too, so if they're loose tighten them and go no further until you test it to see if the knock is gone). You also have to drop the driveshaft so you can pull the tranny back, and undo the rear mount. The linkage will have to be disconnected as well. Then you remove the bellhousing-to-block bolts and pull 'er back. Remember, the tranny is very heavy, so use a tranny jack.

A cracked flexplate can cause a knock too. I had that happen in my first car, a '78 Trans Am.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Re: Transmission Question

Reply #3
The flexplate to converter nuts are the ones I'm after for the moment.  So I guess it shouldn't be a big operation to get at them.  If I can determine that the problem is somewhere less accessible than that then I guess I"ll cross that bridge when I come to it.  Thanks.
1983 Thunderbird-302 HO, Holley 650 CFM 4150 DP, Weiand Stealth Intake, Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner,  Holley Fuel Pump, Procomp HEI Distributor, B&M Holeshot 2400 Converter, Custom 2 1/4 duals with no cats and BBK shorties, Taurus Fan Conversion, FMS Grill, much more to come....


"In the future, I plan on taking more of an active role in the decisions I make" - Paris Hilton

 

Re: Transmission Question

Reply #4
Id find out what size they were first and get a extended length wrench, or custom make one to do all that. To hell with dropping the tranny for that!