Disc rear conversion.......

Topic: Disc rear conversion....... (Read 3919 times) previous topic - next topic

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #15 – November 28, 2016, 09:59:56 AM

1) Going from 10" brakes up front to 11" brakes up front will only require different soft lines. The adapters are needed when going to SN95 style calipers and typically it is only the passenger side one. They now make SS braided lines for the Fox to SN95 conversion so you don't need the adapters.
2) I went with poly up front and tore them back out a week later and installed rubber again, way too harsh on a stock suspension geometry car for me.
3) Drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money on a daily driver IMO. I've had them and will not again as I do not feel there wasn't any performance gain over solid surface vented rotors.
4) Just gut the stock proportioning valve and put a manual proportioning valve inline on the rear feed. Simpler, works better, and you can tune the brakes.
5) Get good pads.
6) Update us on the progress and remember we like pics!!!

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #16 – November 28, 2016, 11:13:11 AM

^ What he said.

Vinnie, this page might help with some of your questions, since it's essentially what you're doing:
http://www.coolcats.net/modifying/tcaxle.html

It's not updated it with the Mark VII e-brake cable information yet; otherwise the page is all current.

I have cross drilled front rotors on the convertible and have noticed exactly nothing in the 'advantage' department. What I have heard is that any cryogenically-frozen components are supposed to last a lot longer (up to 20-30%). But that wasn't available when I did the conversion in 2002.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #17 – December 04, 2016, 10:01:35 AM

I just saw these two last replies. I have the parts in the garage (complete front suspension, complete rear).

I have heard of gutting the proportioning valve but never seen it done, as well as mating up an adjustable to it. I have luckily never needed to do much of any brake work other that swapping brakes or rotors. Easy stuff.

So, as far as the master cylinder, you believe the stock one is fine (it is new) or should i swap it to a '93 Cobra style MC? I hear conflicting stories. I do plan on swapping my stock, nearly 30 year old booster out for a new smaller Fox Mustang GT style booster. I figured I could use a clutch cable adjuster that way. Any opinions on that. I'm open to all opinions.

Apparently Dom included the parking brake cables from the pedal to the rear, still connected. The only parts not in place are the front calipers.

Do the rear calipers squeeze together like the front or need the tool that turns them in?

I plan on new shocks and struts, new ball joints, and the best pads I can get and the stainless hoses (one piece at a time until I have it all, then install it all at once.). I was also thinking about going to poly bushings and a solid steering shaft. I'll also be replacing the steering rack and tie rod ends since they are under warranty.

I had swapped the steering shaft's rubber disc, but I think it still sucks.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #18 – December 04, 2016, 12:03:05 PM

Run the 93 Cobra MC and booster. Gutting the proportioning valve is stupid easy as there are several write ups and I have posted a figure on how to do this so I'll try to dig that thread up for you. Maximum Motorsports has all the stuff you need but I just look at what they have and buy most of it at the parts store or online cheaper. The only things I get from them is the 3-2 kit and the solid plug for the combination valve. Depending on if your car has SAE or metric threads will depend on if you use these parts:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/1-1993-Cobra-master-cyl-C528.aspx

Or these parts:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/1-1993-Cobra-master-cyl-C537.aspx

I'm not saying that your stock MC and a stock 5.0 Fox Mustang booster would not work but they were not designed for these braking components like the 93 Cobra MC and booster are. The other advantage is that you can move up to Cobra size brakes with that MC and booster combo. You can get the Cobra MC and booster off of Rock Auto for a decent price.

The rear calipers need the tool to twist them but you can get it at most parts stores. Watch the Flaming River type steering shafts as they have set screws that foul on the exhaust.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #19 – December 04, 2016, 12:40:07 PM

Does the Cobra Master Cylinder have the line on the bottom like my stock one? Some I have seen in pics I can't tell, but it seems they would have to. Mine has two on the inner side, one line on the bottom.

That's a short and effective list that you gave me. I've got it bookmarked now.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #20 – December 04, 2016, 12:49:22 PM

OK....it appears that there are two ports, and the fitting I would need allows a person to tap into that for the second line necessary on the MC. Is that correct? I have a lot of studying to do.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #21 – December 04, 2016, 01:43:27 PM

No sir. That is why you need the 3-2 conversion kit.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #22 – December 07, 2016, 07:38:41 AM

Thanks a lot.

Disc rear conversion.......

Reply #23 – December 12, 2016, 04:14:28 PM

X2 on the poly bushings...I put 'em on the Sport when I started getting into it....and the times I drove it, it was rough as a 1 ton truck....unless it's a 75% of the time track car, I wouldn't advise it, especially as you drive yours a lot and sometimes on long cruises...

It also seemed to transmit more noise into the car, though the steering and handling tightened way the hell up.

Maybe there's a company that has stuff that's a little less mushy than rubber but not as stiff as poly..???

I also had the poly stuff in all the rear areas too, and it took very little to get the rear to kick out...