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Topic: Boosting problem (Read 1209 times) previous topic - next topic

Boosting problem

When I'm driving the car normal drives great. When I get on it it goes up to 10 psi and about 3500 rmps stops acclertioning and pulling. When I shift into another gear it just bogs down. I thought when carshiznit boost it will keep pulling hard. Can you all try to help me out here I'm a little lost thanks. The abs light is on also so what's the best thing to check with that.

Boosting problem

Reply #1
The illuminated ABS light in the 87-88 TurboCoupe is very common, and means that some sensor, switch or pump is out on the ABS side and that the ABS computer has disabled the system.  There is a write-up on the NATO site (turbotbird.com under FAQ) and elsewhere on the net (google TEVES II ABS troubleshooting) about how to jump the computer in the trunk to test for problems.  The brakes will still work when the ABS system is down, but (obviously) the ABS will not work.  The TEVES II ABS system is rather trouble pr0ne, and even the Ferrari site has some advice on troubleshooting it.

For your turbo issues, have you checked for leaks in the hoses?  It kind of sounds like something is leaking on the pressure side, but it could be a number of other issues.  I had a similar issue which turned out to be a split hose from the intercooler to the throttle body.  Someone else may chime in on other possibilities.  Can you provide more info--whether the car is stock, Gillis valve installed, transmission, etc?

Boosting problem

Reply #2
The car is mostly stock it's a 1988 5 speed got rid of ac and aftermarket exhaust system.  So I'll start checking all the hoses for leaks. What else is there to start looking for the boost problem? It's leaking from the senor on the side of the oil pan I can not find any thing on that some one help me out with that.

Boosting problem

Reply #3
Remove the sensor and buy a SUBARU drain plug. It is 1.5X20MM it will screw in place of the leaky sender and you can cut the wire and trash the entire sensor in the dumpster., As far as the ABS forget it that system sucks big time and is useless anyway. Check for ripped connector hoses as posted above. Thet split all the time. If not split post back you may have a clogged CAT?? That is if you have one??? Or your valve springs may be shot. They suck on the 2.3 and fail all the time also. usually not at that low of an RPM though!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Boosting problem

Reply #4
I will buy a Subaru drain plug for that thank you. I thought it was an important system to have. If I just take the light out for the abs system that will be ok?

Boosting problem

Reply #5
Another thing is to check timing, then temporarily disconnect the knock sensor (top of intake) and repeat acceleration test.  Sometimes you'll get a false reading from the knock sensor and the computer will limit boost and retard timing, leading to similar experiences as you describe.

 

Boosting problem

Reply #6
Quote from: Outcast13;440262
I will buy a Subaru drain plug for that thank you. I thought it was an important system to have. If I just take the light out for the abs system that will be ok?

Taking the light out won't do anything
My abs system didn't work for the longest time and I eventually converted to traditional vacuum assist and it works great
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout: