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Topic: Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height) (Read 2843 times) previous topic - next topic

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

I can't find a solid answer on here about this. Does anyone know how these mounts move the motor around? I'm just curious what the engine choices are under the stock hood - if a 351w can fit with Chuck's mounts. I have his mounts now and I THINK it lowered the engine a bit, but it has been years. From what I gather on here, a 351w appears to fit with raising the back of the stock hood, so I figure a drop from the motor mounts would do just as well.

With an increase in come, I'm starting to plan where I want this car to end up in the long term. Since I doubt that it'll be soon that the new 5.0 motor swaps will become easy, I figure s 408 would be the only other worthwhile upgrade over what I have now, for the amount of money that more engine changes would require. Why spend the same on a 302/331/347 with an aftermarket block as a 351/408 if both can fit under the stock hood in some way? Slightly more rotating mass, but *shrug*
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #1
I did not measure the engine height before and after installing Chucks mounts, but it "appeared" to be lower. 

Given you have his mounts already, you have the option to trial fit the engine, as modifying Chuck's mounts to raise or lower the engine is relatively easy.  The bushing may be shimmed up to raise the engine or trimmed to drop it, or even convert them to solid mounts.

Dropping the engine may allow it to fit under the hood, but but might create header clearance and driveline angles which could need to be addressed.  Just all part of hotrodding and "bolt in modifications".

The 8.2" block/9.5" block debate is endless and mostly pointless...  The best one is the one that sees the road again!

It's gotta feel good to be in a spot put money toward your project, keeps it fun and opens up options.

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #2
Yes, it is good to have opens open up. I was just thinking of picking up a shortblock from AD Performance in the area, since over the years their reputation has grown very strong. The price difference is $300 using DART Sportman blocks, for 60 more cubic inches. I would prefer to keep other maintenance fairly simple to do, so needing odd headers and exhaust would be not so preferable. The small weight difference over the nose can be handled.

With either new engine choice, I think the rest of the drivetrain will be a bit lacking on strength through, although I don't plan on putting slicks on the thing or dragracing it as that can approach the requirements for a cage and whatnot at those potential performance levels.

I just need something as the heads I have are a maintenance nightmare (gt40p), and my  rear main has leaked after a few thousand miles on the build. No issues with crankcase pressure, as tested some years back. I see people making pretty nice numbers even on AFR 185cc heads on 408s, but know they'd also be more future proof for any street build I do, and allow me to build something right now until I go all out with a new motor. It'd be easier to do the heads now, then a new motor in a couple years when I can sell the house and move into something with a better/larger work space/garage.

Even so, I've got many other projects on the car's interior and electrical to keep me busy. I just HATE these iron heads, it bugging me to no end every few weeks ;) The same is true for my stock-2003 torque converter that would take no time to install a replacement for if the engine was out. I have to shift early with the 4r70w to not damage the converter, even though the engine's still gaining power at 5k rpms.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #3
I'm in the, I think they are lower band wagon. I got a 302 block with a 3 inch filter on top and it clears the hood.
88 Turbocoupe: Coast High Performance 331 kit 28oz balance, Comp XE264HR14 cam, 58cc 185 afr heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Mass-Flo EFI (was POS to setup and their techline is a joke at best)
Full 1 5/8 primary equal length headers, 2 1/2 exhaust, Full manual reverse VB c4 and baked off clear coat "BECAUSE RACECAR"

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #4
Quote from: Seek;400349
I have to shift early with the 4r70w to not damage the converter, even though the engine's still gaining power at 5k rpms.

Well I dunno about the 4R70W 'verter but I've spun stock AOD to 6250 without issue... Ronnie(chrome302jr, remember him?)spun one of the cheap B&M street converters the same and regularly hit it with a 125 shot, never did kill the thing...

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #5
They may lower the engine a bit over stock, but with the addition of a couple of the large-diameter washers the engine can be raised back up.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #6
Quote from: Chuck W;400360
They may lower the engine a bit over stock, but with the addition of a couple of the large-diameter washers the engine can be raised back up.

I don't want raised back up ;) Lower center of gravity, possibility of sticking en EFI 351W block under the hood, what isn't there to like? Exhaust clearance as it is right now is fine with my headers on the 302 block.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #7
FYI

In my 86 XR7 with the stock K member.  I used Chucks 5.0 mounts(beautiful by the way) on a roller 351 with Edelbrock rpm performer intake(that intake is 10.5").  My hood hits abit...1/3" would do, I thought I was in the clear.  But after I got the tranny in...the top vacuum port hits the hood enough for a nice little crease.  Im going to mill down the upper, maybe a washer or two on the hood.  I want to switch to the 87-88TC hood anyways.  Another options that also would work well is finding the 83-early 85 tbird/cougar k member, then you can use mustang convert mounts...cheap and lowers the engine down abit.

Travis

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #8
A few washers between the hood hinges and hood does wonders for gaining hood clearance...just remember to adjust the bumpstops on the hinges...otherwise the hinges get tweaked the first time you close the hood and you have to do a weird "lift and shimmy" with the hood to open it and close it very cautiously......ask me how I know.

Good luck,
Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #9
Quote from: Seek;400368
I don't want raised back up ;) Lower center of gravity, possibility of sticking en EFI 351W block under the hood, what isn't there to like? Exhaust clearance as it is right now is fine with my headers on the 302 block.

I needed to swap the steering shaft with an aftermarket shaft to clear the header collector.  Thats with 351w block, chuck mounts, and bbk longtubes
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


 

Chuck's 5.0 Motor Mounts (motor height)

Reply #10
Holding these mounts and a hydraulic one side by side, it looks like stock sits lower? The difference was minor, but it was a few millimeters. I'm not sure I see how the mounts are any lower than stock.
1988 Thunderbird Sport