Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Buying new block (Read 2964 times) previous topic - next topic

Buying new block

Reply #15 –
Rod it is. The pistons are FORGED FROM THE FACTORY and the crank is strong. Floating pins serve only one purpose. EASE OF ASSEMBLY. Not every piston can be a floater. most Forged pistons come with spiral locks so you can float the rods. Floating the rods eliminates the heating process for pressed in pins. A rod heater is a must to assemble non floating rods. By the way once again every engines weak point is the rods. Unless you are running an LS motor then it is the BOLTS!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Buying new block

Reply #16 –
kk
88 TC 5speed, 168000+ miles, stock 2.3T long block, ported RFE6 exhaust, Evergreen T3 running 15#'s.
Up next: FMIC, fresh air intake, ported intakes, ported big valve head.
 

Buying new block

Reply #17 –
Well the block had a crack in it and a chip out of a chunk of metal. So I am guessing it was dropped...
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke: