Having some real bad luck, help.

Topic: Having some real bad luck, help. (Read 4403 times) previous topic - next topic

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #15 – February 11, 2014, 04:18:32 AM

I took a real good look and didn't find anything wrong
Everything looks to be in tip top shape as a matter of fact
Hlas seem to be fine but I don't really know to test them
Anybody else have an idea of what could be wrong?
Compression tests were normal as far as last time I tested around a year ago so I don't think a valves are bent
I'm at a loss here and I really need my car back on the road
Could it be the bottom end, I really doubt it is.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #16 – February 11, 2014, 09:41:57 AM

are you absolutly sure each plug wire is sparking?
you can undo each plug wire then stuff any old spark plug that is good then gator clip the threads of the spark plug to chassis.
i dont know how to prevent the injectors from firing on the 2.3,, should be a connector you can undo while you crank so you dont dump fuel while cranking / testing for spark.

crank the motor up at the starter relay with your hand held trigger switch or a regular household light switch.

next you would want to verify the injectors...
borrow a small light bulb like the ones in your dash and rig up a couple gator clips ,, unplug each injector and form it into your home made *two wire* test light... light should blink as you crank. you need to connect to both the wires in the injector connector.
the 12v is typically constant on the top of each injector,, the ground is being switched off and on by the computer.
if your certain you have power to the top of each injector,, then you can use your normal test light from + battery up to the ground of each injector with an inline blocking doide.
or...........
if you have a spare injector,, then just plug it into the injector engine harness,, crank and "feel" for the test injector "clicking"

dial in TDC on each cylinder,, i think they are 90deg out of phase on the 2.3L in direct firing order and rotating the crank in the normal direction as running.
follow the up and ready piston with a screwdriver to feel for tdc once you get close or want to verify.
stuff a garden hose up in the empty spark plug hole and blow real hard.. compare that test to other cylinders. you should be able to barely if at all get any air to go in. ~typically an air compressor with a leak down tester is used here but this gets you started.
if you can get air to pass through, then you found your issue.

at what point did you change the timing belt? much earlier than the post you mention or did you change it as a result of the motor not acting right?
i dont know if the 2.3 is a interference motor or not,, if it is... well ,, different topic.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #17 – February 11, 2014, 09:51:32 AM

and...... so ,,,,,,,, i assume cyl 4 is *now firing*?

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #18 – February 11, 2014, 10:10:42 AM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;428643

Open circuiting the secondary side of an ignition system increased the current draw in the primary by 10X the normal running current. And especially the TFI system which every ford guy knows is marginal at best when working correctly. Also the risk of shock is not something to take lightly. As a TFI system will produce 60K of secondary voltage open circuited. Years back with wimpy Point systems we used to do this but not on a modern electronically controlled car. Just passing on info . No, Worry's!!

I found a real neat spark tester yesterday. It plugs in-line between the spark plug and the spark plug cable.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #19 – February 12, 2014, 09:13:44 PM

Ok I went through the whole process using your method and each spark plug, wire, and injector check out good
Each injector is also getting voltage
I haven't done the leak down test yet but I will soon
The 2.3t isn't an interference engine luckily
and I changed the timing belt when I checked to see if the cam, aux, and crank were all in time so I figure I might as well change it since I've never changed it

Quote from: jcassity;428751

are you absolutly sure each plug wire is sparking?
you can undo each plug wire then stuff any old spark plug that is good then gator clip the threads of the spark plug to chassis.
i dont know how to prevent the injectors from firing on the 2.3,, should be a connector you can undo while you crank so you dont dump fuel while cranking / testing for spark.

crank the motor up at the starter relay with your hand held trigger switch or a regular household light switch.

next you would want to verify the injectors...
borrow a small light bulb like the ones in your dash and rig up a couple gator clips ,, unplug each injector and form it into your home made *two wire* test light... light should blink as you crank. you need to connect to both the wires in the injector connector.
the 12v is typically constant on the top of each injector,, the ground is being switched off and on by the computer.
if your certain you have power to the top of each injector,, then you can use your normal test light from + battery up to the ground of each injector with an inline blocking doide.
or...........
if you have a spare injector,, then just plug it into the injector engine harness,, crank and "feel" for the test injector "clicking"

dial in TDC on each cylinder,, i think they are 90deg out of phase on the 2.3L in direct firing order and rotating the crank in the normal direction as running.
follow the up and ready piston with a screwdriver to feel for tdc once you get close or want to verify.
stuff a garden hose up in the empty spark plug hole and blow real hard.. compare that test to other cylinders. you should be able to barely if at all get any air to go in. ~typically an air compressor with a leak down tester is used here but this gets you started.
if you can get air to pass through, then you found your issue.

at what point did you change the timing belt? much earlier than the post you mention or did you change it as a result of the motor not acting right?
i dont know if the 2.3 is a interference motor or not,, if it is... well ,, different topic.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #20 – February 12, 2014, 09:33:34 PM

You can fire the investors manually by turning the dist back and forth and verify they are firing.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #21 – February 12, 2014, 09:34:36 PM

And also last time I checked cyl #4 was not running

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #22 – February 12, 2014, 09:58:50 PM

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

if you have you spark, you should have fuel. if one injection isn't firing, it almost has to be a bad wire, or bad injector.

If it were me, id pull the computer out and check for continuity between the computer and the #4 fuel injector. if it tests bad, id try the main harness plugs.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #23 – February 12, 2014, 11:03:51 PM

the eec switches the ground off and on,, so gettng power to each injector you said is verified.
easy test here, use a small bulb & socket to plug into the injector plug itself then crank the engine ,, the light should blink as the dizzy rotates.

i suppose you coud also see if the plugs are wet,, each would be damp if you've been cranking

there is a metal ring that spins around in circles in the dizzy that passes through the hull effect or stator assembly down in the dizzy. one of them is narrower which denotes cylinder 1 so the cmputer knows where its at. if one of those fins are bent becaue something on the old cap fell in and jammed ,, it would have dmaged the hull effect,, yet you "shouldnt" have spark .. depends on the speculatory damage im speaking to though.

Haystack,, rotating the dizzy should only trip off the injector next in line to fire,, should trip them all off.. just a thougt but it will tell him if "the one" is or isnt.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #24 – February 12, 2014, 11:04:28 PM

whats going on under the valve cover by the way,, had time to get to that yet,, i know its a pita