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suspension rebuild

Stupid questions...

I've never done any suspension work outside of pulling off tie rods. After driving 2000miles in the last week, I've come to the conclusion the stock 190+k mile suspension is a bit worn out.

Replacement shocks/struts from the parts store? Stock springs? What's the best way to go? Thinking new strut mounts and ball joints while I'm at it. I also have some sn-95 springs, but think they might get the rear end too low for my driving style.

I am also curious about air rear shocks and if there avaliable. I like to be over prepared when I travel, and after getting pulled over twice and searched for drugs at the idaho border, I'm thinking I may need to find an alternative to lugging 600 lbs worth of tools in the trunk, or stopping the bumper from dragging. I have a tiny 1 1/4 receiver hitch, and would like to eventually get a small 500lb rated trailer to tow, so air shocks seem very tempting.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

suspension rebuild

Reply #1
Monroe has air shocks for the bird and cougars, they're a tid bit pricey, also gabrial has them too. I had a set on my lx before I tore it down they're pretty decent, I didn't notice an astounding difference

suspension rebuild

Reply #2
I went with the monroe sensatrac and couldn't be happier.
88 Turbocoupe: Coast High Performance 331 kit 28oz balance, Comp XE264HR14 cam, 58cc 185 afr heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Mass-Flo EFI (was POS to setup and their techline is a joke at best)
Full 1 5/8 primary equal length headers, 2 1/2 exhaust, Full manual reverse VB c4 and baked off clear coat "BECAUSE RACECAR"

suspension rebuild

Reply #3
Quote from: Soul;411511
I went with the monroe sensatrac and couldn't be happier.

 
I've got Sensatracs all around and I like them. A bit firmer than stock ride but nice and smooth.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

suspension rebuild

Reply #4
Mine was doing boat on the ocean impersonation prior to the shock upgrade so anything was better :D.
88 Turbocoupe: Coast High Performance 331 kit 28oz balance, Comp XE264HR14 cam, 58cc 185 afr heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Mass-Flo EFI (was POS to setup and their techline is a joke at best)
Full 1 5/8 primary equal length headers, 2 1/2 exhaust, Full manual reverse VB c4 and baked off clear coat "BECAUSE RACECAR"

suspension rebuild

Reply #5
As far as the strut mounts go, you're not going to find a replacement for the stockers, and they're different from the Mustang ones. You can, however, get some aftermarket ones from Moog or TRW, that match the cup style of those used in the Mustangs from '83 on. They have a replaceable upper bushing (stock TBird ones are not serviceable), and you can use an inexpensive poly replacement should you like.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon

suspension rebuild

Reply #6
Good to know chuck. Might need to just go with caster camber plates. Not really planning on lowering the car or anything though, so might kinda be a waste.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

suspension rebuild

Reply #7
Quote from: Chuck W;411611
As far as the strut mounts go, you're not going to find a replacement for the stockers, and they're different from the Mustang ones. You can, however, get some aftermarket ones from Moog or TRW, that match the cup style of those used in the Mustangs from '83 on. They have a replaceable upper bushing (stock TBird ones are not serviceable), and you can use an inexpensive poly replacement should you like.

Monroe also makes replacement strut mounts, well at least they did five years ago. I've got a set on my Thunderbird.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

suspension rebuild

Reply #8
Haystack,
              I just put poly bushings on my suspension except for the two center ones on my rear axle. I also put two new anti-sway bars, KYB shocks and struts, and new Moog springs. The springs I put on my car are a cargo springs (stiffer than stock). I figure if they are too stiff, I can always cut a coil off which will lower my car a little (my car sits high). I went to the Monroe sight and basically just looked up the springs I was looking for and ordered them from Summit Racing.

suspension rebuild

Reply #9
IMO CC plates on our cars are not a waste no matter what the suspension height is.  You have to look at it this way, these cars are at a minimum of 25 years old and are unibody.  If you did not weld in some stiffeners they have sagged, moved, shifted, etc.  I put my 83 on a frame machine and pulled it back straight, welded in upper and lower subframes, and then installed the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates.  The tech that aligned the car gave me a little static about aligning it to Maximum's recommended specs but after he drove the car he said it was on the money.

I would also suggest that you rebuild the lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints.  You can get a set of SN95 control arms off a Mustang and go that route so the car is not down any longer than needs be or you can rebuild yours.  Moog makes a nice bushing kit for them and you can borrow the removal/installation tool from the parts store and it will also do the ball joints.  If you are still running the Fox brakes up front get the T-Bird specific ball joints but if you are running the SN95 spindles get the SN95 ball joints so you can ditch the washers if you are still running the Fox ball joints.  Be sure to get a new sway bar end link kit as well.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

suspension rebuild

Reply #10
I am with DARREN 100% on his post. The strut plates rot out from the inside and if not addressed will eventually crack the unibody. I use MAM MOTOR plates and they are absolutely necessary for a correct alignment. Just me !!!




Notice how the upper pocket cracked. This is because the stock bushings FAILED. This is relatively common in states that have bad winters. Just saying!!

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

suspension rebuild

Reply #11
What type of bushings are recommended for replacing front control arm bushings?  I have a combination going of poly and rubber in the frontend bushings and mounts. 

1. Moog rubber rack bushings
2. Solid rubber(not hydraulic) motor mounts
3. Monroe strut mount kits with rubber isolators
4. poly sway bar bushings
5. poly endlink bushings
6. poly transmission mount

This is all in an 88 XR-7 with a 5.0HO/AOD and newly upgrading to 11" front brakes.


 

suspension rebuild

Reply #13
Overall you have good materials in the bushings.  I would run Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates and their rack bushings but that's me.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=514_2_77&products_id=258

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=514_3_86&products_id=466

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp