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Topic: Looking for help with mystery diagnosis... (Read 3364 times) previous topic - next topic

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #30
I forgot to say, since resurrecting it from the garage, it has yet to die coming to a stop.  I have also noticed that after driving it, parking it for a few minutes and starting it back up to drive again, it starts funny.  Like it fires up a little more quickly than it should, then bogs down for a split second then runs normal, like it's loaded with fuel or something.  Before it always had a consistent second or two of crank time.  Sorry if I sound like a rambling buffoon, I'm just trying to describe all the things it does as best I can.

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #31
BTW as far as any plug or distributor problems, keep in mind all that stuff is brand new, including the ignition module.  I am going to try that spray bottle test though., and I'm going to get some carb cleaner and perform the vacuum leak test.

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #32
I just sprayed water mist along the plug wires and cap and did not see any spark coming from anywhere.

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #33
I think this thread may have been abandoned... but I just sprayed all over the vac lines and around the throttle body base with carb cleaner with no idle change.  It only changed when I hit the PCV valve.

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #34
That would indicate a vacuum leak around the PCV valve then, eh?

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #35
You think that would be enough to cause the aforementioned symptoms?  The lines going to the PCV seem good to go... should I replace the valve?  It does seem to sit in the hole in the valve covers rather loosely.  Is it possible to replace the rubber ring the PCV valve slips into?

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #36
Quote from: Jesse Adams;401087
Thunder Chicken, your post intrigued me due to the fact that the thermostat was replaced, so I inspected the coolant temp sending unit and definitely found some less than stellar wiring at the connector.  There is about 3/8 exposed wire at the base of the connector which has been unprotected long enough to where it looks old and brown.  I definitely feel I should get the connector replaced, and the sending unit is like 8 bucks so I'm going to replace that also.
 
There is a ECT SWITCH one wire to it. This turns on the red engine light if the engine is overheating. This is not the one you are interested in.
There is a ECT SENSOR with two wires. this goes to the ECU. This is the one you want. However this should give an error code if it is out of specs.

Turn the ignition to RUN without starting the car. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a second or two then shut off. This confirms that the software in the ECU is running.

The negative battery cable should have a small "pigtail" wire that connects to a wire in the cable harness. This the ground for the ECU electronics.

Looking into the top of the CFI you will see a Schrader valve. This is where a fuel pressure gauge screws on. The pressure should be 39 psi. More importantly the pressure should hold for at least 20 minutes after the engine is shut off. If it bleeds down too fast you may have a fuel injector that is not sealing and dumping in excess fuel. Maybe you can borrow a gauge from a car parts store.

 

Looking for help with mystery diagnosis...

Reply #37
I suppose before I do anything else I will attempt to pull codes using the paperclip method.  However, driving it into town just now it finally acted up the way it was before I parked it.  It started idling rough, bogged down and died when coming to a stop to pull it into my friends driveway.  What's weird is it seems to run OK as long as my foot is on the gas.  I can keep it from dying that way.  I restarted it and at that point, it continued to run rough in idle and in gear.  I put it in park and let it idle but was curious about the PCV... I wanted to  with it to see if it would make the car run better or find a vacuum leak, so I pulled it out of it's little hole and at that point there was smoke of some kind coming out of the hole it sits in... It didn't make any difference in the way the car ran from plugging or unplugging the valve.  It ran py like that for about 30 - 60 seconds then it died again.  The smoke coming out of the PCV hole smelled like rich exhaust to me, and it  near smelled like raw fuel when the car died, almost like it was flooded.