88 Tbird LX Restoration

Topic: 88 Tbird LX Restoration (Read 2012 times) previous topic - next topic

88 Tbird LX Restoration

November 09, 2011, 10:12:03 AM

I've noticed I have started a ton of threads relating to restoring my car. I figure it would be easier to just keep it all in one place.

Anywho, my 5.0 has near 300k miles on it, still runs, and until I started doing the 5 lug swap it could have drove daily. We put a monster motorsports 550hp AOD in it back in 2007 in prep for the motor I wanted to have. Also in 2008 my father and I put BBK 1 5/8th shorties with a catless H pipe and a catback kit for a mustang. Recently I put in my 8.8 Disc rear from a 98 GT, so I pretty much have my bases covered in the durability sector for my sunday hot rod.

After I put my new spindles on and get my brakes sealed up (or mostly there) I would like to pull the motor to be worked on this winter. I'm not sure exactly what I want in it, or how to do it. I have a ton of mechanic friends (one is my roomate) So other than machining we can do most of it at my house.

I am ROUGHLY... very roughly going to draw a list of what I think I would need, and would like to get your inputs and opinions.

Money is obviously a factor, however... this car will not leave the family so I want it to be durable and last.

Engine block, bored and cleaned, 306ci? Black gloss paint and polished aluminum is all you will see in my engine bay.

Forged internals (will be kenne bell supercharged down the road) Goal is 450-500 at the wheels, or whatever I can get without going past my 550hp limit on the transmission. Streetable.

Heads- is E7 still the way to go? I know new heads arent cheap, but I want something super peppy off the line if it requires getting new ones.

-Exhaust is covered, 2.5 in out the back should hopefully be enough for 400+hp.

-intake- For now I will find an explorer or a cobra intake as a placeholder for the supercharger.

-obviously a new computer

Like I said, I'm not an engine guy, but I know the 5.0's potential. If I can get a general list made here by you guys, then it will hopefully aid me in building what I want.

Until next time

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #1 – November 09, 2011, 11:13:22 AM

From what I understand, in the past few years, we have come to understand a ton about these engines that we just made assumptions on in the years past. Most of what Ive learned has been from reading posts from the owner of FordStrokers. He posts a ton on Corral. From what i gather, at the power levels you are looking at, the stock block will be on borrowed time. It will break, just when is the question. Making matters worse is the supercharger, which puts a side load on the crank. Even if you put a forged crank in, the stress will still be there. Also, girdles do not add to the strength of the block, they merely keep everything in fewer pieces once it blows.

E7's are certainly not the way to go. TFS 170's, or afr 185's will be plenty for your goals with a blower. The TFS seem to be a better value, imo.

I have read about alignment issues with cobra intake/kenne bell's. Just so you are aware. I think it boiled down to china cobra lowers???

A9p is the computer you want for an auto mass air setup. Harder to find than a9l's. You may read that a9l's will cause problems with auto harnessed cars, but that issue came down to oxygen sensor grounds, which apparently are different in Tbirds vs Mustangs. Mine didnt have the issue, plug and play with a a9l(relatively).

I'd go 351 based. Thats what Im saving for. I have a explorer intake, gt40 head'd, comp xe266hr engine in mine. I dont see the point in throwing a blower on, and risking blowing everything. Instead of spending that money, I can have a 351 in the car, albeit with undersized heads. But then I can grow into it. late model roller cam 351 blocks can handle significantly more power than any production 302.

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #2 – November 09, 2011, 03:45:36 PM

Ok, borrowed time is a hard term to define with it being a sunday driver. No racing or drag time will be in this cars lifetime, just a ballsy sunday driver to do a burnout at mopar and keep its own off a traffic light against a new camaro/stang.

With that, how much time would be borrowed?

Also, I did some reading and found 350hp to be a lot more common with the fox five litres n/a. It doesnt HAVE to be 500 per say, I just want as much power as I can get under this hood, from this block/ displacement, safely.

I will get a matching intake for the kenne bell, thats no biggie, the cobra intake would just be there to take some advantage of the rebuild over my stock setup (and is required per the HO conversion)

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #3 – November 09, 2011, 03:47:04 PM

basically, would ALMOST 400 rwhp be realistic? or would I be looking closer at 350rwhp?

Either way, its a hell of a jump from the 155 it has now (and thats probably what, 125rwhp?)

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #4 – November 09, 2011, 03:55:27 PM

If that.

I'd not even start with the 5.0 block, at least not a stock block, either a good used 351w block, or a Sportsman 5.0 block.

500 hp with stock blocks = time bomb, as mentioned. Why risk all the time and money on a hand grenade..?

Sounds like you've got most everything else covered...make sure you get a good fuel pump when you step up to the blower...i've got a 255lb/hr Walbro in mine...overkill for a stock HO..but...this time next year I'll need it for sure.

Oh, and pics when ya get 'er comin' together :)

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #5 – November 09, 2011, 10:43:11 PM

Ok, so what lame number can I expect from this block, supercharged... lol

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #6 – November 10, 2011, 04:15:33 AM

I have seen blocks split down the middle with less then 400 crank hp. I have seen others go over 600 without problems for years. A supercharger puts even more strain on the block, I would be bothered at less then 400hp.

Get a better set of heads, and a better intake. For exhaust, bigger is almost always better. If you can go carbed, that will keep it cheaper. If your set on a supercharger, I would buy a block first.

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #7 – November 10, 2011, 05:05:20 AM

Quote from: Haystack;372455

If your set on a supercharger, I would buy a block first.

x2.. or go the cheaper route and go 351.. you can just get a junkyard motor and have at it.. since you're going to be throwing a forged bottom end in it, you can probably find a bare block on craigslist to save some money. with that said, with a 351w block, you can opt for a pair of 351c heads to gain some runner volume that will respond great to a charger. they only require a little modification to work.. this is what you call a 'clevor.' iron 2V clevland heads actually flow better than a lot of aftermarket windsor heads.. downside, weight and an intake.. price motorsports sells adapter plates to fit a windsor intake to the clevland heads. at that point, the only problem should be getting an injected 351w intake to fit under your stock hood.. the only 351w injection intake i have ever seen (and pretty sure all that exists) is for a truck. the upper is much taller than the 302 intakes found on cars/exploders, but it can be cut down and tig welded back together.. i don't know if kenny bell makes an intake for an injected 351w, as i'm not a fan of superchargers (turbos all the way!). just something to think about.. i have a few links to tech info on building a clevor if you'd like to read up on it a bit

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #8 – November 10, 2011, 10:27:47 AM

My buddy has a 91 'stang with a 94-96 exploder 302 with dished pistons running a F303 cam, GT40P heads, MAC longtubes, flowmasters to dumps,750 holley, edelbrock super victor intake with a 100 shot plate system and the car runs low 12's with a clutch he had it dyno'd and its kicking 350 to the wheels and that car rips.

88 Tbird LX Restoration

Reply #9 – November 24, 2011, 03:14:18 PM

Spindles came in today, they will be painted and detailed before they go on the car, plus I ordered shiney new dust shields for them.

Im going to re-read the swap, but I understand its a matter of sn-95 ball joints and sn-95 outer tie rods?