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Topic: Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting. (Read 2506 times) previous topic - next topic

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

I posted that the IRCM was toast, which is not the case. I thought the original IRCM that was in the trunk when I got the car was bad, but for the hell of it, I tried to fire up the car tonight, and it ran perfectly.

Normally I'd lean to TFI module ir PIP in the Distributor, but the TFI has been changed, and when problem arose, the check engine light went off/on a few times with key on/engine off. During this time, the electric fan cycled on/aff fairly quickly, as it would of EEC connection to IRCM was lost.

I pulled the kick panel to check the EEC ground (which was fine) and noticed a "re manufactured" sticker on the LA3 computer.

I'm not exactly sure what to look at next.  I suppose it's possible the signal wire from the ignition switch could be the problem, but I would think it would happen other than when its wamed up like when it seems to happen

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #1
You sure the ign switch isn't intermittent???

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #2
Sorry, forgot to mention I changed the ignition switch. Old one was splitting in half, I think it was original. The only bad wire I saw was the red/blue to the solenoid.

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #3
Well, I let the car idle in the driveway this morning, and the problem presented itself just as the gauge came off cold.
I beat the IRCM with a 1/2" ratchet a few times, and since then the problem has not duplicated :giggle:  I have a replacement on the way, and the spare bad IRCM I have, i'm rebuilding with external relay plugs as a spare. :D

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #4
Another update. Tried to pull codes to see if there was a code set for loss of PIP signal. Only code I got was 23 for the TPS voltage, on the KOEO test.

Tried to do a KOER test, which the car stalled immediately, and the IRCM started buzzing, which I read can be a bad ground.  Going to see what I can do tomorrow with the grounds.

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #5
Good luck. Post the results.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #6
I enden up running a ground from the IRCM casing right to the negative post of the battery, as well as an extra ground from the battery meg to the engine block, and a ground from the EEC casing to the chassis ground.

Seems to be running better, but This happens when beating on the IRCM :giggle:
I still have a new IRCM on the way and am going to rebuild the other IRCM I have with external relays.

[video=youtube;lO9CiK09SYA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lO9CiK09SYA&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #7
Oh  after grounding the IRSM I was able to run the KOER tests, only got 34 for the EGR. Also got a 74 and 77 but that was operator error :giggle:

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #8
I was able to drive it like 20 miles tonight without isue after grounding the IRCM, and running an extra ground from the battery to the engine block. I'm still going to replace the IRCM, because I no longer trust the one on the car!

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #9
I am a little confused over you FIX???? The case of the IRCM is not electrically GROUNDED. So grounding the case does not DO ANYTHING??????

PIN 15-16 IS THE GROUND FOR THE IRCM!!



Hitting the IRCM confirms a bad relay.  All you are doing is shocking the relays and breaking the contact points. Replace the IRCM or rewire the IRCM with seperate relays and eliminate it!!  Hope this helps
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #10
Possibly all that's wrong with the IRCM is it has bad PCB connection(s) on the relay... The fan relays do fail but a fuel pump or PCM relay failure is rare...

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #11
Ah I was thinking that, but could have sworn I read somewhere it was grounded through the casing, which seemed kind of odd to me after disassembling the really bad one.

I do already have a replacement on the way. I take it those pins 15 and 16 are a chassis ground, or grounding controlled by the EEC?

Maybe I'll tear this one open to have a look at it, to check internal connections, if I fix this as well as the one I am rebuilding with external relays, I'll have 2 spares!-- N/M, I just had another look at the schematic, definitely a chassis ground. Even though I am replacing, I'll probably run new grounds just to be safe, can never have too many!

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #12
Personally i have only seen one IRCM with a burnt PC BOARD. I repaired it. Thanks
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

 

Sorry about all the posts, but things are getting interesting.

Reply #13
This was the one on the car when I bought it, took and replaced all 4 relays with externals. Car seemed to fire up with less cranking to with this one.