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Topic: Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique? (Read 3082 times) previous topic - next topic

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Well, I've been thinking about ways to fix this big ass dent, and since beating it out is not working so well, and I'm afraid that bondo is not going to capture all the curves correctly, I have an idea.

My plan is to cut this area out of a donor car, and then cut the same area out of my car, paste the donor sheet in and weld it in place (from behind), then bondo up all the seams.

I have pretty much no experience in sheet metal repair or body work so I'm asking you guys (daminc)! if you think it will work. Whaddaya think?

--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #1
Does your donor car have the entire 1/4 panel from the body line down that is usable? or do you only have that section to work with?

The problem with cutting it along the door line is that it isn't in the correct place anymore after the hit. You should actually be able to pull that out using a stud welder and some working with a hammer and dolly.
I would cut the welds inside the door jamb and straighten the inner metal.. then  I would cut the bottom section under where the moulding covers, and match up the old bent panel to the new panel... your seam will be hidden at least in part of your repair.
the upper cut is going to be a tough one. It would be better to cut at least an inch below the body line for filler purposes. I would try and cut along the stripe and see if you could get the metal back in shape before you cut above the body line. You won't be able to weld that panel from behind. Use backing strips like I did in my repairs. it will make the job easier to weld in.





I would also try to keep the weld joint out of the wheel well if I could. flat areas are easier to weld and finish so they won't be as noticable. If your going to keep your car black after the repair, you need to have a lot of patience so it won't be seen.
If your set on doing it yourself. I could talk you through it step by step. but you need to take a bunch more pics of the donor panel and some diff angles of your car and inside the door jamb. and I'll mark on the pics where I would cut and weld the panel.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #2
Isn't the door jamb pulled back? That requires a little extra love doesn't it?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #3
It all needs a little lovin.... I would try to pull it back out before I started cutting it off. I don't see a crease so it should go back pretty nice. (if you ask me)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #4
Also.... I may be in Tampa for a month in April If you haven't done it by then. ;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #5
I'm not sure about the donor. the donor is an 86 tbird and I'm not entirely sure if the curves are the same.

tHe door jamb itself was not damaged in the hit. It actually didn't move.

I can get some more pics with better angles soon. just not tonight. cause its dark. very dark.
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #6
86 bird will have a different look to it above your mldg. I would start with a stud welder

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #7
Quote from: Dansbirds;329212
86 bird will have a different look to it above your mldg. I would start with a stud welder


X2
you just need to pull it out in reverse of how it got pushed in. small steps working from the outside in. Thee down side is that a decent stud welder costs about $200 and up, unless you can rent one. Harbor freight has one for about $100 but you have to wait about 3 min between studs for the gun to cycle.

You need something like this.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HS4550&Category_Code=2SW
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #8
Beating them out? Cutting them out? Why not try something different. Take the inside trim panel off and get your self a strong pry type tool. I had the same kinda dent on my 94 cougar and all I did was use a pry type tool "2x4" covered the end of it with a towel to prevent any major damage. Then slid it down in the hole I used the innner  body panel as my fulcrum point. Then I started at the deepest part and slowly pried the dent out of that panel. When I was done you could barely tell it was there. Not saying the other ways wouldn't work just why hack and slash unless that is the only option.

Stuckman
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #9
Cutting and welding in panels isn't as easy as it seems. Taht would be the very last option, and with that dent your dealing with, it just isn't necassary.

ic said exactly what you need do.
...and there was light!

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #10
here you go... a lesson on dent removal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxivphyQL-s&feature=related
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #11
i would start with tools that follow the door jam seem and work that vertical edge foward (to the right in your pic or to the front of the car) just a tiny bit at a time all the way up across every single inch. this will pull the center area outward a little at a time. eventually you can pop the center out. This area is very important for looks so if you can find non conductive tools to to work this edge, it would be better. also, i would imagine I would use a tool that had about a 2'' or there abouts wide head. Im thinking a really good piece of hard wood shaped into a chissel would be better than metalic tools for this edge. if your metalic tool were really dull, that may work. Im just thinking that you might as well accept the fact your not getting off without some paint work and some exterior flat hammer work to tune up some dings that are too high.

At some point you will be satisfied with what you have so now you can make a jig to replicate the other sides profile.

to make a jig, find a really nice sold sturdy piece of cardboard about the density of a large corn flakes box.
find a penciel and secure it to something like 3 or 4 lego's stacked up atop one another.

hold or secure your cardboard to the good side of the car
slide your penciel rig deal up vertically and let the penciel tip trail the cardboard at you go up.

cut out the shape along the line and this is the final edge you are after when you lay it up against your damaged part. it gives you a good calibrated idea of when to stop hitting where.

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #12
Well, here is my problem.

What I should have done was start this thread and talk to you guys about it before I did anything.

What i did instead was attempt to fix it myself using nothing more than my extensive [lack of] knowledge of dent repair.

Since I did(do)n't have the correct tools for the job, and nothing more than a rubber mallet and hammer to do the job, it didn't go so well.

List of wrong moves:

1. Took inside panels off and attempted to push out the dent with hand.
2. That didn't work so I tried to use my foot for better leverage.
3. That didn't work so I pulled out the mallet and started banging.
4. That didn't work so I pulled out the hammer and started banging.
5. Well, that worked, but not so well.
6. Left it out in the rain to rust.

Soooo.... this is what I am left with to further destroy. ...Uh, I mean repair.







You can see the dent actually includes and goes below the moulding piece, and all the way out to the middle of the area over the fender, and that the door jamb is basically untouced. Also, if you look along the top corner of the door jamb, you can see that there is a clear crease in it that was there the whole time that gradually widens up to include the whole dent. My original plan was to pull the majority of the dent out and then fill in that crease. But....

With the state that it is in now, I don't know if pulling it out is an option anymore, and that is why I brought up this topic of completely replacing the piece.

I considered the prying it out option also, but the problem is that I have nothing to really get leverage on inside the car without bending some part of the interior body, and still its a long shot.

You guys take a look and see if you think it  is still fixable, by an amateur, or if I should have a body shop do it, or if I can indeed replace the panel, and fix up the seams.

I took a few extra pics for daminc to fully see what is there and draw lines.
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #13
Hey Jerry, you still coming down here in April?
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

 

Copy and Paste: Dent Removal Technique?

Reply #14
No, sorry........ plans have changed 2 weeks ago unexpectedly. My wife is having her thyroid removed next week.

You still need a stud welder to pull the rest of that out. I got one, but unfortunately I won't be in your area to help
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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