rebuiling a 2.3

Topic: rebuiling a 2.3 (Read 2354 times) previous topic - next topic

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #15 – March 08, 2006, 12:49:18 PM

yea, the pistons that are going into the motor are forged,

i'm thinkin about sendin both upper and lower to bob, and havin him take care of them for me, and sending a exhaust header back with all of it,

Now, i've seen some people put like..an oiler just under the pistons..or something of the sort,

and what about crank sers, RedLX i noticed you've got one, do you know of it doing and good...any bad !?

i think i'll go with the A237 Cam, cause with all the work, and run it about 2* retarded, cause all in all ....1st gear is a waist of time, and by the time your back into second, and back on it, your still at around 2500 RPM, so that's about when it'll kick in..

any one know of where the best bang for the buck on valves are !?

i found a guy on E-bay in oregon, that sells valves and dual springs with titanum locks, worth it ?!

Opps..almost forgot...where can i find such a cam ?! will i need new rollers, lifters, what all will i need....is there a kit with all of it ?

Nick

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #16 – March 08, 2006, 01:38:58 PM

Factory turbo rods had oil squirters in them, but they were designed to oil the thrust side of the cylinder wall. I've heard of people fitting oil squirters that squirt at the bottom of the piston but I don't know much about it.

I really put the crank ser on as a shiznits & giggles/just in case sort of thing. There's a guy that sells em on ebay for $50. Really, you don't need one unless you're turning a lotta RPM's. I think a windage tray is probably more important. I built my own out of some perforated stainless sheet I had sitting around, it's not hard, just takes awhile to get it all fit right.

Don't you mean you would run the cam 2 degrees advanced? THat would move the power band down, retarding the cam moves it up.

You can just keep your stock valves if they're in good shape. You do need better springs though. If those dual springs are a good price, pick them up...you don't really need titanium retainers. Racer Walsh sells some springs that are low-end double springs and they'll be good for the A237.

Oh, and about the A237...it's not in production anymore. People seem to be selling them all the time though. You should be able to find one over on turboford, or at the very least you could probably find an A234 which is the slider version of the same cam.

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #17 – March 08, 2006, 07:54:26 PM

Quote from: turbopete

The ranger roller is a truck cam and as such has a good low and middle. It's actually smaller than a stock slider - .355" vs .390-.400"

Well gee. I didn't know that. Screw the ranger cam then. Thanks for the info Mister Pete. :)

The one thing I'm still trying to shake is that things you would/can do to the 5.0, doesn't apply to the 2.3T. Stroking, Overboring, and all that other stuff seems to be a no-no or a complete waste of time and money.

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #18 – March 08, 2006, 08:44:37 PM

There are some cam specs here including the Range Roller cam:
http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Motor/camshaft.html

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #19 – March 08, 2006, 08:50:00 PM

Quote from: darkthunder

Well gee. I didn't know that. Screw the ranger cam then. Thanks for the info Mister Pete. :)

The one thing I'm still trying to shake is that things you would/can do to the 5.0, doesn't apply to the 2.3T. Stroking, Overboring, and all that other stuff seems to be a no-no or a complete waste of time and money.

By the time you figure in the ratio of the cam followers the lift difference of the RR is a wash.
It's the reduction in friction due to the roller design vs the slider that is the gain really. It does well on most street-driven 2.3Ts.

The one thing I will suggest. ARP rod bolts. The rod bolts are the weak link in the stock bottom end. Everything else is good to go for 95% of the builds.

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #20 – March 08, 2006, 10:56:44 PM

It's not that stroking is a "no-no" (and BTW, you don't bore to increase displacement- you can get a max of what, 8 cubes on a big block?), it's just that stroking a 2.3L is rather costly and the ends don't justify the means. Also, the factory pistons in the 2.3L Turbo are good enough that if the block doesn't need bored, you might as well just keep them...and in most instances, the block DOESN'T need bored, so people save their money on that part of the build.

Plus, all the power is made in the head...I would spend money on an aluminum head way before I would spend it on a stroker kit (which would cost as much if not more).

Oh and yes, ARP rod bolts- cheap insurance, $50 a set.

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #21 – March 16, 2006, 07:32:22 AM

2.3 block if finaly going into the shop tommrow moring, i'm so siked,

Cleaned, Honed, and new bearings ....and ther' gonna " check it out "

for like 300 $ or so... pimpin !!!

Any thing else i should do,

i think i was gonna have the block shaved due to the pistons i was going to run to equal out to about 8.2:1 CR

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #22 – March 18, 2006, 01:54:03 PM

Check the journals on the crank, if they're scratched you'll want to have the journals polished, and if they're scored badly you'll have to have it turned.

rebuiling a 2.3

Reply #23 – January 20, 2011, 11:20:13 PM

Quote from: turbopete;73468

The A237 is basically DOA until around 3K. After that it comes on like an after burner. Exactly where it comes on depeds on your other mods and turbo sizing. Idle is slightly lumpy. Expect to give up 3-5" of vacuum. It can be run 2-4* advanced to bring the power curve down some. Some people run it 2*- for a bigger top end

The ranger roller is a truck cam and as such has a good low and middle. It's actually smaller than a stock slider - .355" vs .390-.400"
It can be run on the minus side for more top end,

High volume pumps put additional strain on the shaft that drives the pump. It can cause the shafts to break or worse, strip out the teeth on the dizzy gear and aux shaft. A stock pump is all you need.

Hope those pistons are forged.

Good luck with the project

Quote from: 460 turbo truck;73577

yea, the pistons that are going into the motor are forged,

i'm thinkin about sendin both upper and lower to bob, and havin him take care of them for me, and sending a exhaust header back with all of it,

Now, i've seen some people put like..an oiler just under the pistons..or something of the sort,

and what about crank sers, RedLX i noticed you've got one, do you know of it doing and good...any bad !?

i think i'll go with the A237 Cam, cause with all the work, and run it about 2* retarded, cause all in all ....1st gear is a waist of time, and by the time your back into second, and back on it, your still at around 2500 RPM, so that's about when it'll kick in..

any one know of where the best bang for the buck on valves are !?

i found a guy on E-bay in oregon, that sells valves and dual springs with titanum locks, worth it ?!

Opps..almost forgot...where can i find such a cam ?! will i need new rollers, lifters, what all will i need....is there a kit with all of it ?

Nick

Is this 2* retarded from factory timing on stock cam? Also will this effect ideal if not set right or if ignition timing is off?